by RJLougee » Wed Jul 02, 2014 7:40 pm
I'm a big fan of the JMR benders, although they are a bit more $$ than some others, they are very nice. I have the JMR1000 electric hydraulic and love it. I didn't start with this bender, but I wish I would have. I began with a Race Car bender, then on to a Pro-Tools 105, the the JMR.
A couple points:
1. Figure out which size dies you're gonna need and get the 220 degree versions. The smaller dies will not do full 180 degree bends and you'll wish you could sooner, rather than later.
2. Get the JMR dies, they will fit in the Pro-Tools (IIRC, maybe they fit in the JD2 instead. Either way, better dies). JMR dies are stronger since they're through hardened instead of surface hardened.
3. If you can find an old-school Hotckiss bender, get it.
4. Get tight radius dies. There's a lot of wasted space with big radius bends and they look goofy.
5. Design a good cage and 1.75" OD is about all you need. Seriously, think triangulation. The entire chassis on my buggy weighs about the same as a stock EB frame.
6. Hydraulic is the way to go, if for no other reason than it sucks to lose the garage space where the manual bender is bolted down.
7. Understand the difference in strength between DOM and EWS. DOM provides @10% more strength, for 3x the $$. 1.75" .125 wall EWS is pretty comparable to .120 wall DOM.
I do not loan my stuff out, but I have no issues with guys coming over to use stuff. When I'm not otherwise engaged.
Joe
'70 Bronco, MAF 5.0, NP435, D44/9", 4.10s, 33" MT/Rs, PS/PB
'71 Bronco, HP D60, Hi-9, 5.38/ARBs, 101" WB, 408 Stroker, AOD, Atlas, 40" MT/Rs, PiMP EFI.
'78 F150 SWB/Stepside/4WD, 351W/4R100/NP205, 35" KM2s, under const...
'81 Coachman Caper XL MH, 4WD, EFI 460/ZF/BW1356, D44/Sterling, 4.10s/35s, under const...
'83 Bronco, D60/Sterling, 5.13/ARBs, MAF EFI 351W/ZF/BW1356, 37" MT/Rs.
'12 Buggy, HPD60, Hi-9, 4.10s, Explorer 5.0, Atlas 4-speed, my chassis, EB skins.
And the latest project is a '99 Ranger Extra-Cab, custom frame/tube work, on 40s...