Body work/ pannel replacement

[Stubborn3]

So despite my preference of fun parts, I have officially aknowledged the fact that my rust issue needs to be sorted out. I need to replace the upper/lower 1/4 pannels and door strikers and the rockers as well. For all you former body cancer victims, how ugly a process/ cost is this going to be? Not worried about flashy paint or anything as I have a 3 year old who is handy with a rattle can. Any help guidance is appreciated.

[Eck]

I replaced my quarter panel and door post in the driver side. It's not terribly expensive if you already have a welder.

Couple suggestions. Take lots of measurements beforehand. I know there is a reference out there that has the door measurements but I'd take them as well from your current rig.

Is yours a hard top? If so, leave the hard top on to help brace the windshield from dropping. If possible, use some tube steel to brace the top of the door opening so it won't fold in or out on you.

Where are you located? I'd be happy to come by and help with prep and measurements, and fab work.

I got my steel from TBP and was very impressed.

[Stubborn3]

Thanks, I do have a hard top, glad you said to leave it on... I expected to remove it. I don't have a welder but intended to buy one anyways. I'll surely hit you up for help when I get all my pieces as I've not done anything like this before but expect to do it a few times in the future.

[Gunnibronco]

I'm not sure how Eck did his quarter, but to attach the upper & lower quarter, consider panel bonding adhesive. Quick, strong, and no warping due to welding heat. Also, where the quarter panels meet the taillight/rear corner panels, it might be hard/impossible to make welds (I've never done a Bronco quarter, but we did a Scout 800 & ran into problems there)

To replace the upper quarter, you'll need to remove the top. Measure, measure, measure. Then add some temporary braces before you remove the top & quarters, to keep things where they belong.

[Dukietown]

I'd be interested in observing/helping if/when you guys start this. I need to do the same and more to mine.

[Eck]

I'm not sure how Eck did his quarter, but to attach the upper & lower quarter, consider panel bonding adhesive. Quick, strong, and no warping due to welding heat. Also, where the quarter panels meet the taillight/rear corner panels, it might be hard/impossible to make welds (I've never done a Bronco quarter, but we did a Scout 800 & ran into problems there)

To replace the upper quarter, you'll need to remove the top. Measure, measure, measure. Then add some temporary braces before you remove the top & quarters, to keep things where they belong.

My bad-- I did kick panels and door posts-- not 1/4 panels (it was late last night when i responded!) I did not use the panel adhesive but I have heard good things. I am pretty sure new vehicles are often put together this way. I would still be willing to help out if needed.

[DanHall]

I lopped off my outer rockers and went back with 2x5 rectangular tubing. A stick built both rockers, several brackets and my rear bumper. My inners were okay though, surface rust but not the cancer I had on the outers. Had to trim the inners and clean them up to get to clean metal for welding. I did a bunch of patch repair too on the inner front quarters, kick panels, tailgate, rear quarters, etc. It is time consuming and mine isn't perfect but it was a fun challenge since I had no experience with body work. Dealing with the heat is the biggest challenge, to avoid warping things. Go in understanding that you'll probably end up chasing cancer further than you think unless you're going to replace entire panels - I certainly did.

[Gunnibronco]

This should help.

Measure before & during the repair. I'd even go so far as to remount the top & door with the new parts held in place with sheetmetal screws & vice grips. You only get one chance to get it right or wrong. Getting it wrong, and finding out after welding the panels on, will be difficult to fix.

[Dukietown]

This should help.

Measure before & during the repair. I'd even go so far as to remount the top & door with the new parts held in place with sheetmetal screws & vice grips. You only get one chance to get it right or wrong. Getting it wrong, and finding out after welding the panels on, will be difficult to fix.

I feel like this is a really dumb question but I have to ask anyways. Does the top need to be bolted in when you do that? The PO put the top on with no seals and didn't bolt it in really. I think it's pretty much held in place by the posts in the rear corners and the windshied bolts...

[Gunnibronco]

You are pretty much right. I'd put a bolt in behind each door. You are just checking fit/alignment/door gaps/etc.

edit: To be sure, put a couple bolts through the windshield to the top & into the rear posts. It doesn't need to be bolted down & road worthy, but it has to be "in place".

[Gunnibronco]

I did not use the panel adhesive but I have heard good things. I am pretty sure new vehicles are often put together this way.

We use it in certain places, in wheel well lips & the top edges of pick-up bed sides & between door skins and frames (factories use it on door skins & some other places). Wheel well lips will warp badly if you try to spot weld, plus you are trying to weld upside down. The long seam between the upper & lower quarter would probably show a warp at each spot weld.

But mostly we use spot welds.

Clean both metal surfaces down to bare metal with a grinder pad, apply enough to completely cover the surface & clamp tight, with lots of vice grips. If the seam isn't seen, you could run sheetmetal screws through it & leave them.

[Stubborn3]

Starting to think this is gonna be work

[Gunnibronco]

Its a project you want someone with some experience in on. Wish I was closer, I'd love to help out.

[Justin]

Post up when you've got tools and parts in hand. I'm happy to help.