Front Bumper Mount Repair

[colby45]

Hey guys,

I'm dealing with a small issue that I've been ignoring since I took the plow off the Bronco, but it really needs to be addressed. My front bumper mounts are totally shot from having the plow mounted on them for all those years. Has anyone repaired these? What is the best way to go about doing it? I'd like to get the holes fixed up and get some square tube to slide into the mounts to extend them out a bit, as my front bumper ends were bent back by someone else and now the bumper won't fit the factory mount holes. This is just a temporary solution until I can figure something else out. Any recommendations?









Thanks!

-Colby

[Gunnibronco]

2x4x1/8" fits nicely inside the frame horns. A few of us have done this. I've done some searching and can't find any pics of the braces. Hopefully someone will chime in, or I'll try to fish mine out and take a picture. If you want to run them deep enough to reach the oblong hole in the bottom of the frame, the 2x4 needs trimmed & tapered to match the frame. Its pretty easy and really beefs up the frame ends. You could leave them hanging out extra if you wanted. You need to shim one or both sides of the 2x4 to make them fit width wise.


Here is a picture of mine. Not great, but you can see the taper. The hole is for my 4x4x2 steering box, I pushed it forward a couple inches, you won't have to do that.

P1020297.JPG

Here is picture during my bumper build. You can see them inside the frame end.

P1020039.JPG

Here is a pic of Rox's installed.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=120&p=52253&hilit=BUmper+insert#p52253

[colby45]

That looks great! That's exactly what I was thinking. I didn't realize there were holes further down in the chassis so I'll get some longer pieces of 4x2x1/8 to go all the way back to that and I'll be surek to taper the end. Then it looks like the shims should be placed right about where that horizontal bolt would go through the chassis based on Rox's pictures? Or should I put a shim close to the inner bolt holes also? That seems to be a great solution, then I don't have to try and patch broke bolt holes or anything like that. Thanks for your help Gunni!

[Gunnibronco]

I put my shim right where the bolt goes through from the inside of the frame rail. I didn't run a bolt from the outside of the frame, since there was no corresponding hole on the right side frame rail. The body mount on the right side is in a different place than the left, and prevents a bolt from being installed there (if I remember correctly). I figured it was such a big increase in strength, adding 2 more bolts to each frame rail was enough.

I can't take credit for this idea, I stole it from Rox or Gregg, I forget.

[colby45]

Cool. Well I'm going to also steal the idea from all of you I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the help!

[Jesus_man]

The rule of thumb if you are thru-bolting something, is to "pinch" the frame with the bolt instead of allowing the dia of the bolt to hold things in place.

Think about a tarp. If you pull string a rope thru a hole you made, it'd tear thru pretty easy. But if you use one of those clamps:

it'll hold much better as it has more material.

I actually cut mine off to be able to pull the bumper in as close to the body as possible to improve approach angle, which is important when off-roading. You don't want a shovel hanging off the front.

[colby45]

The rule of thumb if you are thru-bolting something, is to "pinch" the frame with the bolt instead of allowing the dia of the bolt to hold things in place.

As far as placing the shims on the outside of the square tubing to give the horizontal mount bolt more strength?

I actually cut mine off to be able to pull the bumper in as close to the body as possible to improve approach angle, which is important when off-roading. You don't want a shovel hanging off the front.

Cut the bumper mounts shorter?

[Jesus_man]

Yes. And collar on the inside is a good idea. This sandwiches the frame against the 4x2 you are placing on the inside without warping it.

Yes, I cut the frame horns off, just in front of the body mount. And the bumper slides into the horns and bolts in place.

[colby45]

Ah I see what you're saying. Yes adding the shims on the inside seems like something really worth doing so the majority of the force is compression on the frame itself and not shearing on just the bolts. I'll definitely be doing that. I also like the idea of cutting the mounts short and moving the whole assembly in, but since I don't know what bumper will on there in the end so I might wait to do that. I just want to put the old bumper back on so it's not just rusting in the garage and makes my Bronco look a little nicer. But at some point I need to have someone do all the body work to it as it has its blemishes. If someone just hadn't bent the ends of it back because of the plow frame I think it would be fine, but it may stick out a little bit until I can figure out what to do about it.

[Gregg]

Page 50 on "What have you done to your Bronco today" you'll see similar pics.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1030&start=1470

I used a heavier duty steel tubing but I have more to compensate for. Later on I took off the tow hooks and attached the winch tray to the beefed up frame horns. Plan it out in case you eventually use the steering box reinforcement kit.

[colby45]

So are you guys drilling new holes for horizontal mounting bolts in the frame also? Or are there some existing holes already there that you are using? Also what's the best way to taper the ends of the square tube? Just cut, bend and re-weld?

[Gunnibronco]

Cut, bend & reweld for the taper.

I just used factory holes (2 original bumper mounts, 1 from inside the frame rail, and one about 6" back on the bottom of the frame rail, on each side). Gregg does seem to have some extra holes.

[colby45]

Great! I'm gonna start working on that this weekend. I'll take some measurements tonight, as I think I need about 4 inches of extension to fit the bent bumper on and I'll do the fabrication once I can grab some tube and plate. Thanks for all the tips guys.

[Gregg]

Yeah, the PO had a plow on it so it had some extra holes. I used some holes and welded up the others. If possible, weld nuts on the inside of the tube. Its a PITA to get a nut and wrench on the holes further back. Also, when the bumper fits over the tube, you wont have access to a nut to tighten the bumper on. Don't ask how I found that out.

[colby45]

Thanks for the heads up. I saw that you mentioned that in your posts you linked and also saw Gunni welded nuts into his bracket. I'll make sure and do that.

[colby45]

Also, where do you guys normally buy your steel?

[Eck]

Also, where do you guys normally buy your steel?

I have had good luck at DenCol. They also have scrap bins that if you don't need a big stick of something or if you want to pick through for other reasons ( practicing ).

[phyler]

Also, where do you guys normally buy your steel?

I have had good luck at DenCol. They also have scrap bins that if you don't need a big stick of something or if you want to pick through for other reasons ( practicing ).

It's hard for me to get down there during the week. I found that Altitude was open on Saturday mornings. Get there before 9am and you'll have the place to your self. For 21-100lbs of drops, you pay $0.70/lb.

[colby45]

Cool. Depending on whether I can take some measurements before the weekend or not, I'll try one of those two. Thanks!

[hockeydad4-22]

I see your in Englewood, Hinton is just south west of Santa Fe and Evans. Again - They do not have Saturday hours.

[Justin]

Altitude steel is open Saturday mornings.