Eck's 351W build thread

[plumbdoctor]

Yup... What land shark said^^^^

[Eck]

Made a trip to the pull n pay this morning and made it out with quite a few things that I was looking for and then some. I think my Explorer front dress is pretty close to complete. I am going to swap in the saginaw pump instead of the explorer ps pump so I still need to source (buy) the bracket for that. I was also able to get most of the remaining parts I needed for the EFI upgrade. A couple of Chrysler coil packs, O2 sensor completed the needs for the wiring harness. I also grabbed a couple electric pusher fans from a Disco (there were at least two more complete sets at the Denver Pull n Pay if anyone is looking.)

So here are a couple questions I have:

I am going to be running the stock Bronco radiator with the 5.0 serpentine set-up. Rox Crusher-- do you have the part numbers of the upper and lower radiator hoses you used? Also-- I saw the upper in your rig-- do you have a picture of how the lower looks?

Does someone have the part numbers for the high pressure PS hoses I need to convert to the Saginaw? I have the stock PS pump now.

Should I get the fuel injectors checked and "re-built?" I saw in our vendor section a write-up for someone that does them for like $11 apiece. Worth doing or is it unnecessary?

I was thinking of changing all of the bearings on the pulleys in the front dress. The tech article from CB had one part number that Advanced Auto carries for like $4 each. Any opinions on whether that is necessary?

The last thing that I do not have is the air hose and air box. What I am a little confused is whether I need the MAF sensor or not. Does the throttle body have the MAF sensor on it or is it part of the "air breather set-up." I am more than likely going to try to source a box from an Explorer and then I guess just buy an air tube and filter. Any input or suggestions? Like I said-- this is probably the most confusing thing to me right now.

I am also going to need to get the accumilator and high pressure fuel pump as well as change my fuel lines to high pressure fuel lines. Any good recommendations on pumps and/or fuel lines? Hard or braided lines? I bought an entire set from the Hut last year and it DID NOT fit my frame as I expected (was told). I ended up hacking it and piecing it with pieces of rubber line and would rather not spend another pretty penny on hard lines just to have to cut it up.

The plan is coming together and my bank account is feeling it!

[akaFrankCastle]

Stock Bronco PS box or 4x4x2?

MAF sensor is separate from the TB.

Bend your own fuel lines.

I'm on my phone and pissed off at Tapatalk or I'd elaborate.

[Eck]

Stock Bronco PS box or 4x4x2?

MAF sensor is separate from the TB.

Bend your own fuel lines.

I'm on my phone and pissed off at Tapatalk or I'd elaborate.

It's a 4x4x2 that Phil rebuilt.

Please feel free to elaborate when you get to the computer...

[Viperwolf1]

Stock Bronco PS box or 4x4x2?

MAF sensor is separate from the TB.

Bend your own fuel lines.

I'm on my phone and pissed off at Tapatalk or I'd elaborate.

It's a 4x4x2 that Phil rebuilt.

Please feel free to elaborate when you get to the computer...

It's a stock EB box that Phil rebuilt.

[Eck]

Stock Bronco PS box or 4x4x2?

MAF sensor is separate from the TB.

Bend your own fuel lines.

I'm on my phone and pissed off at Tapatalk or I'd elaborate.

It's a 4x4x2 that Phil rebuilt.

Please feel free to elaborate when you get to the computer...

It's a stock EB box that Phil rebuilt.

What he said...

[EFI Guy]

Try and grab the air box and MAF sensor from one of the later Explorers (99-01). Get a 6 wire MAF instead of 4 if you can, and grab the pigtail with it. Write down the PCM code of the PCM that you took it from. If the PCM is missing it should have a sticker next to it. The code will probably be something like EQE3 or EQE4.

[Eck]

Try and grab the air box and MAF sensor from one of the later Explorers (99-01). Get a 6 wire MAF instead of 4 if you can, and grab the pigtail with it. Write down the PCM code of the PCM that you took it from. If the PCM is missing it should have a sticker next to it. The code will probably be something like EQE3 or EQE4.

Does it matter if it's V6 or V8? I don't suppose you have a picture of what it is that I need to be looking for do you?

[Moab Mike]

MUST be from a V-8.

[Eck]

MUST be from a V-8.

I assumed but thought I'd ask since there were 5x as many V6's in the yard.

[akaFrankCastle]

Stock Bronco PS box or 4x4x2?

MAF sensor is separate from the TB.

Bend your own fuel lines.

I'm on my phone and pissed off at Tapatalk or I'd elaborate.

It's a 4x4x2 that Phil rebuilt.

Please feel free to elaborate when you get to the computer...

I don't know if there is a part number you can just pull off the shelf to make that Saggy work with your EB box. So, I would pull the lines off, go to a Parker store (they sell high pressure lines and fittings) show them what you have and then ask them to make you a brand new hose(s) with the correct ends.

Gary already covered the MAF/TB stuff.

As far as bending your own lines, I mean just that. You can buy lengths of steel lines in whichever diameter you want/need, get yourself a bender, and go to town. It would give you the flexibility to run them where YOU want versus where vendors generically place them. And then you can become the club fuel line builder guy.

[landshark]

Stock Bronco PS box or 4x4x2?

MAF sensor is separate from the TB.

Bend your own fuel lines.

I'm on my phone and pissed off at Tapatalk or I'd elaborate.

It's a 4x4x2 that Phil rebuilt.

Please feel free to elaborate when you get to the computer...

I don't know if there is a part number you can just pull off the shelf to make that Saggy work with your EB box. So, I would pull the lines off, go to a Parker store (they sell high pressure lines and fittings) show them what you have and then ask them to make you a brand new hose(s) with the correct ends.

Gary already covered the MAF/TB stuff.

As far as bending your own lines, I mean just that. You can buy lengths of steel lines in whichever diameter you want/need, get yourself a bender, and go to town. It would give you the flexibility to run them where YOU want versus where vendors generically place them. And then you can become the club fuel line builder guy.

x2 - bend your own lines, its easy. You can get a decent hand bender ($30 or less) and pick up a flaring tool or borrow (or rent from parts store) one from someone here and run the lines how you want to for 1/2 the price of a bre-bent set that usually doesn't fit right anyway. I bought my steel lines form On-Track Performance they were just coils of steel fuel line i think about 20 feet or so.. not sure the price.. $40? don't remember but you can probably find them online for even cheaper.

I found the flaring tool to be more important than the bender if cost is a issue BTW.. but a decent bender makes things even easier as you can imagine.

[Justin]

I've got a bending tool that you're welcome to borrow. It's HF junk, but works fine. You're also welcome to take a look at the lines I bent up for mine. I've got a single flaring tool as well. Some auto parts stores carry rolls of tubing in stock, so if you call around you can find one in the $35-$40 range.

[landshark]

I've got a bending tool that you're welcome to borrow. It's HF junk, but works fine. You're also welcome to take a look at the lines I bent up for mine. I've got a single flaring tool as well. Some auto parts stores carry rolls of tubing in stock, so if you call around you can find one in the $35-$40 range.

Forgot to mention, I do have a singe and double flaring tool... and a bender, its a hand held but worked on my 76 and all the emission lines on both... takes a little practice ;)

[Gunnibronco]

If you are going to buy a bender, make sure to get one that goes 180*. I have a 90* one, but when you need to do 180*, there is no substitute. And they aren't any/much more expensive.

Like this one. Not a recommendation, just the first google result.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/eastwood-tub ... fgodyI4AQQ

[Eck]

Thanks for the suggestions. Chris- I'd love to borrow your tools when I get to that point.

So the machine shop gave me a suggestion on some solvent to use to clean up the engine prior to paint but I can't remember what he suggested. He warned me against anything remotely flammable like diesel or kerosene. Does anyone know what I should use to clean up the engine to have it ready for paint? I'm hoping to get the cleaning done tomorrow. May even start assembly if I get too motivated.

[Digger]

Let me know when you do your fuel lines. I bought a hydraulic flaring tool for doing mine. It can do GM fuel lines, metric bubble, push-connect flares, as well as 45° single and double flares.

[landshark]

Thanks for the suggestions. Chris- I'd love to borrow your tools when I get to that point.

So the machine shop gave me a suggestion on some solvent to use to clean up the engine prior to paint but I can't remember what he suggested. He warned me against anything remotely flammable like diesel or kerosene. Does anyone know what I should use to clean up the engine to have it ready for paint? I'm hoping to get the cleaning done tomorrow. May even start assembly if I get too motivated.

I washed it real good with soap and water and made sure to get ALL the little crap out of the galleries and nooks and crannies. I then immediately lightly oiled everything with a light oil (don't remember what but used WD-40 for some stuff) then before installing bearings, pistons etc etc i used assembly oil on everything..

you really need to get that engine block clean there is allot of gunk in there hiding from him machining it.. then once its nice and clean make sure you oil the cylinder heads and everything else - you will get flash rust pretty fast.

Pressure washer would probably work really good..

Also you need to make sure all your engine plugs are in and you don't have any cracks or other things someone might have missed ;)

If you can't assemble all at one time take saran wrap and cover all the areas that you cleaned and oiled.. You want to make sure its super clean when your putting it together.

[Eck]

I am planning on putting a lot of work into this starting this weekend and extending into next week. Thursday night is about the only time I probably won't be working on it but if anyone is interested in helping or getting involved, let me know when you would like to come by. I will probably try to get assembly done by Monday/Tuesday night and then will need to run new fuel lines and power steering lines. Once I have that accomplished- install will begin and EFI wiring installed.

Like I said-- let me know if you have time and desire to help or would like to learn as I am. Schedule is flexible and any organized times would just be further motivation to get out and work on it!

[Eck]

Installed the Crank and camshaft, timing chain and gears, and thrust plate. Got all of the piston bearings installed and called it a day. Need to get a piston installer.

Had one minor setback with a thrust plate bolt sheering clean off. It only takes 10 lbs of torque and it must have just been an old soft bolt. It fortunately came out with a little drilling and broken bolt set.

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[EFI Guy]

Sweet. I'm sure I have a ring compressor around here somewhere that you can borrow. Give me a ring and you can get it and your freshly completed harness at the same time.

[Viperwolf1]

I think the torque on those bolts is only 8-9 ft-lbs. Use locktite.

[Eck]

I think the torque on those bolts is only 8-9 ft-lbs. Use locktite.

According to my engine build book, they suggested 10. I did use loctite. Thanks for the tip.

[Eck]

Piston install question. How tight should it be and how difficult to knock in to the block? I've done one and stopped because I'm not sure how well I did.

I feel like the front is tighter than the back?

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[Kinder]

Should be nice and tight. Did you put just a ring in (usually the top compression ring) and measure the gap with a feeler gauge? I can't remember the exact gap, it should be in your book, maybe 0.010.

[Eck]

Scott at the engine shop checked all of the rings for me at his shop. I've tightens down the rod with bearings to the crank journal and I'm having a hard time rotating the crank into position for the next piston.

[Kinder]

Are the crankshaft bearings in their correct position? They are keyed to go in one way & I believe the thrust bearing position is the middle cap.

[EFI Guy]

Is the notch in the piston towards the front of the engine? Did you oil the crap out of it before install? Did you stagger the piston ring end gaps? Have you used plastigauge to check your bearing clearances yet?

[Eck]

Yah- so it ended up being a bent ring where the oil waffled ring is at. I removed it to check and will now have to get a new ring for that piston.

EFI guy- I did everything you asked but the plastigauge thing.

The other 7 installed a lot more smoothly!

[Moab Mike]

You should be using copious amounts of assembly lube in your bearings too.