Extended radius arm mounting location- moving axle forward

[Gunnibronco]

Let the Bronco creep begin.

Before/during my Atlas & ZF install, I want to push my axle forward. This is means that I'm going to have to relocate the radius arm mounts on my frame. I'm running Bloody Knuckle arms & brackets.

IMG_1495.JPG

Because I'm running wide axles, my radius arms run at more angle to reach the wide axle than if it was a stock axle.


I figure I've got 4 options when I remove & reinstall my radius arm mount.

#1- Just move my Bloody Knuckle brackets forward with my axle

#2- Use a mount on the outside of the frame, like one of these:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/3LEG10.html

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Inn ... _1174.html

This would do a few things.
First it removes the hanger from below the frame, and leave less to get snagged or hung up on obstacles.
Second, it would better "point" the radius arm towards the axle. Would this help with how the rod end works/flexibility? Or does the design of the rod end make this irrelevant?

According to a post by Digger, moving the radius arm mounts closer to the center of the truck is better for flexibility but worse for body roll. So mounting the radius arms outside of the frame would be worse for flexibility. Would it be significant, or just splitting hairs?

#3 Use a radius arm mount like this, but angle it out towards the axle. This would reduce the angle across the rod end, without moving the end outboard of the frame:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/CHLB.html

#4 Mount the brackets below & inboard of the frame. I haven't found any prefabed brackets like this, so it would probably mean making some myself.
This option would make the truck more flexible but with more roll. It would also add to the angle of the radius arms to the axles.

My goal in the next couple years is to go to 37" tires, probably adding a body lift to get the extra clearance for tires & clocking my Atlas up flat. A flat belly pan and no radius arm hangers below the frame seems like a slick set up. But if I'm going to sacrifice significant flexibility, then it might not be the right choice.

Opinions?

[Justin]

I'd vote for #1, for a couple of reasons. First, you've already got them. Second, they work great. I'm using the radius arm mounts in #3 and they're nice, but they're exactly as wide as the chassis. Angling them out would look weird and not really gain you anything. The movement range of the heim is significantly greater than what is actually used at the end of a radius arm, so you're not really gaining anything by angling the mount towards the arm. One big caveat: You mentioned in another thread that the misalignments are just a piece of pipe. Is it literally just a spacer, or do you have proper misalignments spacers installed? If you don't have misalignments, then a swap to the Ruffstuff radius arm brackets and misalignments are what I'd do. They significantly increase the range of movement. I do plan to plate the sides of the radius arm brackets so that I can more solidly tie them into the frame. This is overkill, but overkill brings be joy.

[Gunnibronco]

You mentioned in another thread that the misalignments are just a piece of pipe. Is it literally just a spacer, or do you have proper misalignments spacers installed? If you don't have misalignments, then a swap to the Ruffstuff radius arm brackets and misalignments are what I'd do. They significantly increase the range of movement. I do plan to plate the sides of the radius arm brackets so that I can more solidly tie them into the frame. This is overkill, but overkill brings be joy.

They are just pieces of pipe as spacers. My brackets measure 2-7/8" across, most the Ruffstuff stuff is 2-5/8". I think I could add some 1/4" plate to space the bracket down to 2-5/8" and use a proper misalignment in my existing brackets. But then I'd also have to reduce the bolt hole size from 1" to 3/4" too. So maybe I should just buy the new link brackets and be done with it.

[trei75bronco]

I've used ruffstuff brackets and that is what I would do. Those bloody knuckle mounts are anchors. There is no tear drop at all to them. Ruffstuff all the way

[trei75bronco]

They will build them any size fyi

[Justin]

Crappy pics of mine is below. Honestly, I'm not sure I'd upgrade after looking at it again. You can see how much heim is showing on either side, and I seriously doubt I'll get into the misalignments. The misalignments are nice, but you're not seeing the kinds of angles out of the radius arm that would require them. It's a great setup, but I don't know that you'd gain much. If the heims are worn out it might be worth it, or if you couldn't get the brackets off cleanly.

[Jesus_man]

I think I have files to send to plasma table guy if you want brackets like I have. If not I can make something up. But mine do hang below the frame. Oddly enough I haven't hung up on mine, but maybe that is because they are close enough to steering axle to avoid them. I have lots of trouble with rear hangers. But with full width axles I'd be awful tempted to put the brackets outboard the frame flush with the bottom. You might sacrifice a little flex but having that extra clearance could be well worth it.

[Gunnibronco]

Thanks JD,

I'm still chewing on how I want to do this. I appreciate your advice, and maybe I'll take you up on the brackets. Right now I'm leaning towards keeping the arms hung directly under the frame. I'll either reuse my BKG brackets or get new Ruffstuff brackets. So it might be best to leave it alone. I can always move things around in the future.

Judging by the dirt & marks, I think the rod ends might be at their angle limit, and that might have helped open the passenger side bracket up a bit. High misalignment spacers will eliminate that possibility & probably make the rod ends last longer, and they are a cheap enough option.

I think that I'll probably seriously look into a linked rear axle in the future. I've got an extra set of adjustable upper coil buckets that would make a good start to the parts list. But that will be after a body lift to clock the Atlas flat. I can then lift my tank 2" higher, and see what kind of clearance I have. With the tank lifted it will sit about as high as a stock tank, in theory. Its already a lot higher than the other high capacity tanks I've seen.