Disc Brake Conversion Advice needed

[phyler]

A month or so ago I blew out the passenger side wheel bearing on my 75. I haven't been able to get it apart yet (the threads on the spindle are trashed). It is looking like I will have to destroy at least the hub assembly and lock nut plus the spindle is trashed.

This is the perfect time to swap to discs and I have choices! Over the years I have acquired (ok, horded), the parts to the Chevy and the F150 (I think I have the right parts at least) conversions.

I'm hoping someone can confirm for me that the following is correct for the F150:

Knuckles - 620170L, 620168R
Caliper mount - Bendix 3204157-L, 3204158-R

I attached a pic of what I have for the F150. All of the parts came together from the same vehicle.

Here is what I'm thinking. Go with the F150 so I don't do things twice. Downside to this is it will cost more upfront. I will need Ball Joints plus the tie-rod over conversion. Anything else? For the tie-rod over, do I just need the reamer and the sleeves? Should I worry about my tie-rod ends? My steering is currently really good which is why I've hesitated on doing the F150 swap.

I'll borrow/rent a ball-joint press (or buy one from HF). In both cases, the spindle bearings need replaced. How do you get those guys out?

What else am I missing? I'm hoping I can collect everything up and do the front-end in a weekend (wanting to do it on the 13/14th after I get back from a business trip). I'm using the Tech Article from classicbroncos.com as a guide. If I make the F150 conversion happen, I'll sell the Chevy parts to try and re-coup some of the added costs.

On a related note, I was able to acquire (again, hoard) the disc brakes from an Explorer 8.8. I know these will/should bolt on to my rear-end (I have the "medium" duty, long story behind how I learned all about those). Is it even worth it? My cost would be pads, rotors re-drilled and the shim plates (I think) and parking brake cables. I know drums aren't that bad, just have these parts sitting here. I'm thinking it's best to wait until I go hydroboost before I do them though.

Thanks for reading and answering the questions. I know I can figure this out but it would take me longer.

Adam

[Gunnibronco]

If you want to keep the EB tie rods, I think you are right about needing the sleeves. I'm not sure, but there may be sleeves that can be installed into a straight hole you drill out. I've seen them before, but they might not be for the EB TREs.

I guess you'll need calipers & pads & hoses. You can use the front calipers from a 78 Ford T-bird w/6.6L motor, they drop right into the F150 stuff & use the same pads. They have a huge single piston. I had the F150 calipers & H-boost for a while & had too much rear brake bias. Switching to the T-bird calipers pulled the bias to the front without a proportioning valve. You might need to grind a small lip off the caliper to fit the hoses. Be careful not to nick the sealing surface of the hose, they'll never seal (ask me how I know).

Use these hoses:
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_ ... cts_id=456

I don't feel the need to upgrade my rear brakes, still running drums. But someday I'll be switching to rear disks.

Good luck.

[DanHall]

You do not need the sleeves if you are going tie rod over - I think... I went with the 1-ton set up when I went TRO. You do need sleeves with the normal tie rod placement and the F150 knuckles. Just be careful reaming the knuckles, use lots of oil and it should go pretty quickly. Test fit often.

If you haven't changed them out recently I would consider the axle u joints as well since you have done most of the disassembly already. Grease the bearings while you are in there. I also replaced the spindle bearings before installing. Kind of a pain to get to but my swap was from a junkyard axle and full of sand. I used a HF pilot bearing puller which worked fine after a little grinder work on the jaws.

I am currently running the thunder chicken calipers as well without a proportioning valve and am happy. Still running rear drums. First time I backed out of the garage with the astroboost I chirped all four tires. Between the new front disks and the hydro the new brake power took a little getting used to.

[phyler]

Thanks for the responses. I'll plan on doing the TB calipers. Good to know about the hoses.

I'm pretty sure with the stock Bronco tie rods that you have to run sleeves either way. I'll keep reading on that.

Adam

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[Justin]

If you're going to the bother of doing a tie rod over I'd do stronger tie rods at the same time. It isn't that expensive.

[phyler]

After reading more, I think I will stay TRU for now. If I did the TRO I'm pretty sure my angles would be off for the drag link and track bar. I'm not heavily wheeling it right now so I'll wait on the track bar riser.

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[Rox Crusher]

With respect to the spindle bearings.........you already need to replace 1 spindle, so I would just buy a set of spindle assemblies which has the bearings already installed.

[phyler]

Rox, the damaged spindle is on my drum setup. I think the pilot bearing puller should pop them out of the f150 spindle just fine. Trying to do it right while on a budget. Have had to resort to side work to get Bronco funds.

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[phyler]

Wow, the old spindle bearings were really stuck. They ended up splitting apart and the needles fell out leaving just the "outer" portion essentially seized against the spindle. After reading that this is somewhat common, I was able to use a dremel and a punch to get them out but one came out in about 100 pieces, one at a time.

Just need to clean up the used parts a bit and finish the new part collection/online ordering.

Questionable on whether I'll have everything ready for the 13th/14th like I want but we'll see.

Thanks again to everyone who gave advice.

[phyler]

Well, it took a bit longer than I had hoped to get the parts and then find a weekend to do this. I'm stepping up this weekend to get this done.

Just a follow up question, I believe the only thing I need as far as specialized tools is the ball joint press and the ball joint socket tool. AutoZone (or the like) should rent both of those right? Any other special tools I should try to line up?

My F150 knuckles still have a ball joint (I think it is the upper) left in them. I'm soaking them in PB Blaster with the hopes that the ball joint press will pop it out.

I will also be doing the axle u-joints just so I have everything done.

I've never done the ball joints on a Bronco but between here, YouTube and a whole bunch of stupid confidence, I think I'm ready. The better question is how much will it fight me (my guess is "alot") and can I actually get it done in a weekend.

If anyone is really bored and wants to heckle, feel free to PM me and I'll get you my address. Always good to have someone there to keep me motivated after the frustration sets in.

Adam

[Justin]

I might be able to swing by on my way home from work on Friday and talk you through the swap if it'd be helpful. I've never used a special socket for the ball joints, just a big one. I've only seen the ball joints swapped, but would be comfortable doing it myself with the proper tools and a good YouTube video. Good call on the PB bath.

[phyler]

Sure, I'll PM you my info.

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[Gunnibronco]

If the ball joints are sticking, and don't want to come out. Put some pressure on it with the press and smack the knuckle (hard) with a BFH. The shock from the hammer "distorts" the hole in the knuckle and helps the ball joint move.

[phyler]

If the ball joints are sticking, and don't want to come out. Put some pressure on it with the press and smack the knuckle (hard) with a BFH. The shock from the hammer "distorts" the hole in the knuckle and helps the ball joint move.

Cool, good to know for the F150 knuckles. I was worried I might need a bigger press or a torch to heat them.

Adam

[phyler]

Used a die grinder to cut through the spindle nut on the side that had the damaged threads. Went through it easily.

Taking pictures along the way for reassembly. Disassembly is easy, just rip it off. :)

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[Justin]

Nice! Glad it came apart easily.

[phyler]

Not everything is being so cooperative. I can't get the old ball joints out of the f150 knuckles. Before I go try to find a shop with a bigger press, any one have one that would let me swing by?

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[Kinder]

I do, but I'm way south.

[phyler]

Persistence pays off. Time and pressure. Got the joints out.

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[phyler]

More updates. The c clips on the axle u joint fought us pretty good. I'll post pics later. Only need to find the ball joint spanner wrench to finish disassembly. Hoping I can start putting it back together tomorrow.

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[Justin]

You shouldn't need it to get the knuckle off. The adjusting sleeve just sets the preload on the ball joints-it doesn't hold the knuckle on. If you've got the upper and lower nuts off it's just sticking. Smack the living bejeebers out of the C with a BFH as close to the ball joint as possible. You can also hammer downwards on the knuckle directly, but you might want to put a couple of layers of cardboard or a phone book down to protect the floor under it.

[phyler]

No, don't need it to get the knuckle off, that's done. The adjusting sleeve is left in the "c". Need the wrench to get it out and then for the reassembly of the new knuckles on to the axle.

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[Justin]

Ah, gotcha, that makes sense.

[phyler]

So, I just needed to sit back and take a drink and think about it. I found a chisel that was big enough to get the sleeve out. So disassembly is done. Will still need that wrench if some one has it for getting things put back together but I'll start assembly tomorrow.

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[Kinder]

Looks like Summit or Advance Auto Parts can get it to you.

OTC Tools 7080 Ball Joint Spanner Wrench

I think I bought mine from one of the Bronco venders.

[phyler]

I'll check advanced. Napa has it too but wanted a lot

Nothing is ever easy. Got everything disassembled and then the new bottom ball joints fought me going in. Now it is the axle joint that doesn't want to seat correctly. I don't think it is supposed to take hours to do these pieces. Blah.

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[Justin]

Perks of working on a 40 year old ride. I've hit the "blah" point loads of times with my current project. It's normal, not that it makes it any more fun.

[phyler]

Perks of working on a 40 year old ride. I've hit the "blah" point loads of times with my current project. It's normal, not that it makes it any more fun.

For sure. The sad part is, the 40 year old part wasn't a factor. It was the new parts that killed me. Ended up slipping a pin in the u-joint so that one is shot. I thought I had been super careful too. The other u-joint went in no issues so I have one axle assembly back together.

The one piece that did fight me pretty good was the c-clips on the axle u-joints. I'm 99.9% certain those were the original u-joints so almost 40 years worth of crap on them. Took me and my buddy the better part of an hour to get all of them out.

Just ordered the ball joint spanner and another u-joint from Amazon. Should be here by Friday so I can pickup the battle next weekend.

One other mistake I made, I had to replace the spindle studs that press in to the knuckle. I didn't pay attention to the hole locations until after I got the first lower ball joint in. DOH! Thankfully, it pressed out nice and easy and went back in easily that time.

Overall, this project hasn't been too bad. It's amazing what the Internet and YouTube bring to the table. My buddy and I commented on how back in high school when we did this we just made it up as we went along. Granted, it helped that two of us worked in shops with access to better tools back then too.

[phyler]

So latest set back. One of the hubs I have had the wheel stud holes wallowed out. Any one have a Ford disc brake hub they want to get rid of? Otherwise I'm going searching on Friday at the yards. They are big $ new.

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[phyler]

Just an update. Got everything together. Took me about 3 hours once I had all the parts. One frustrating thing, I bought new warn hubs and one cap won't move off free. Thankfully I had my old ones still and used one of them until I can call warn and figure out what's wrong. Gratuitous pic up next.