radiator/stat for EFI

[ZOSO]

Ok I need to make a few changes. For one my radiator leaks at random times. So I would like to replace it. And in the process I also plan to replace the thermostat. The current one opens at 190-200* but once it opens it's open. So I will run down the road on a cold day seeing 140-150* temps.

Now with looking into the future next winter is an explorer/OBD2 EFI upgrade. So I would like to plan for that now. So whats the best temp tstat and radiator to make work now and later? Also Im thinking about running the trans back into the radiator so I need an auto radiator.

[sykanr0ng]

Explorer OBD2 EFI installed on your current engine?

I don't know the details of your current engine but would suggest starting with an Explorer engine.
Unless your engine has a roller cam and low miles on it.
I read on another forum of a guy who pulled the heads on his '90 Mustang donor engine with 88,000 miles he found that the cylinder walls still had the factory crosshatch pattern, EFI controls the fuel so much better that there is no excess gas and none drawn in through the carb after the ignition is turned off to wash the oil off the cylinder walls so they are protected from wear at start-up.

Having an engine ready to install when you change it instead of having it all torn apart while you change over parts is a plus.

[Digger]

For thermostat, run a 195°

For radiator, any quality aluminum unit will work. It sounds like you have plenty of cooling, just minor leaks.

You may have to partially block the radiator in the winter to keep engine temps reasonable. The t-stat opens a certain distance for a given temp. If you are running a higher performance radiator, the coolant returning to the engine will be cooler than originally designed for the system and the engine temp will drop. The t-stat will close some to compensate, but since it's mechanical and not electronic (PID) controlled, the engine temp will "sag" below the stated t-stat temp.

[Justin]

I've been quite happy with my Champion radiator. Great bang for the buck. I'm not really sure why people shell out major bucks for Ron Davis.

[Eck]

The thing to think about when upgrading to EFI and front Explorer accessories/serpentine is that the radiator inlet and outlets are opposite. People have sorta Frankensteined crossover hoses to make a standard radiator work. I ended up paying a shop to swap my inlet and outlet so I could stay away from crossover hoses.

Champion sells a radiator for this conversion. http://www.championradiators.com/Ford-B ... -1966-1967

[Viperwolf1]

A word of caution with the reverse flow champion radiators. The trans cooler is on the hot side. You can't cool a transmission with a 200 degree heat exchanger.

[Justin]

I hadn't thought of that. Good to know, thanks!

[sykanr0ng]

I don't know why people push the aluminum radiators.

Yes OEM's have switched to aluminum, because it is cheaper not because it is better.

The bean counters run the companies, save a nickel on every car and it adds up.

Copper/brass transfers heat better, and can be easily repaired.

[Justin]

Whether the cool better depends on the construction. Many solders don't transfer heat well, so the end result is about the same as a welded aluminum radiator. Copper/brass can be stronger, though.

[ZOSO]

Thats the thing too. We all know how much that core support flexes while wheelin. Aluminum radiators are "brittle" compared to copper/brass. That means a solidly mounted aluminum will crack from all the twisting long before the copper/brass. Im all open for different options. Im just looking to see whats out there that will suite me now and when the EFI goes on.

As for EFI Im running a 351w with 30k on it. Im not gonna down size to a 302. And with that being said Im also looking to swap in a taurus electric fan too. Im just looking for something that will work now and later. I dont mind making a crossover tube for the hoses.

[Kinder]

I believe Viper mounted up the exploder V6 radiator to use in his new 351 build.

[Gregg]

I also run the Explorer V6 in Explorer EFI Swap. Under $200 and lifetime warranty. I havn't had overheating probs.

[Eck]

It seems like if you are looking for a solution for NOW and then for LATER, then you are going to want to buy a Bronco radiator and then run the crossover tubes later. Buying a radiator now with the ports switched for EFI use, is not going to help you today.

[ZOSO]

I was looking around on the champion website. Now should I go 3 core or 4 core. Im gonna have to modify the mounts either way. The tubes on the 4 core are 0.63" they dont list tube size for the 3core.

[Viperwolf1]

I believe Viper mounted up the exploder V6 radiator to use in his new 351 build.

I've come to the realization that Bronco radiators don't live forever, even the expensive ones. I'm going to try a different approach now, cheap and disposable.

[Gregg]

I believe Viper mounted up the exploder V6 radiator to use in his new 351 build.

I've come to the realization that Bronco radiators don't live forever, even the expensive ones. I'm going to try a different approach now, cheap and disposable.

So now you prefer your radiators like your women...

[ZOSO]

I believe Viper mounted up the exploder V6 radiator to use in his new 351 build.

I've come to the realization that Bronco radiators don't live forever, even the expensive ones. I'm going to try a different approach now, cheap and disposable.

So now you prefer your radiators like your women...

WOW, thats saying a lot about you. Must be comfortable talking about yourself like that. Glad you can finally admit what we all knew long ago.

[landshark]

My radiator in the 69 was $120 shipped from summit. Might want to look there.

[ZOSO]

Got a part number?

[Justin]

I went with the 3 core, had to run the 4 core mounts to fit it. Works great. I think it wound up being $180 shipped, but that was 4ish years ago.

[landshark]

Got a part number?

Looks like it is $159 shipped... i paid $139 may have been a special or something in may.

As you know I haven't had any significant cooling issues except for when the fan met the radiator - this one is wide I would think you can find something on there that would be more suitable..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-380425

[Digger]

I have a 3-core Explorer radiator I ran in the Ranger. It has about 1000 miles on it if you're looking at options.

I'd take $50 for it and you could stop by to see if it would fit your needs.

[landshark]

Oh yea I have a 1983 cj radiator that's brass. Works pretty well in a bronco even with a soldered hole in it. :). I would take $51 because it's a classic.

[ZOSO]

Does anyone have the measurements of the explorer front dress? Im looking for depth. From the block to the tip of the water pump where the fan mounts.

[Viperwolf1]

6 1/2"

20150210_190641.jpg

[Eck]

6 1/2"

20150210_190641.jpg

Good thing you included a picture to prove the 6 1/2" measurement wasn't something else...

[Viperwolf1]

I just wanted you to see where I measured from.

[ZOSO]

Perfect. So going to the explorer front dress I'll gain 2" of clearance between the water pump and radiator. the current waterpump and timing cover is 8". Currently have 3" between radiator and waterpump. My taurus fan is 5" deep. So that prevents me from installing it now. And it will be a tight fit with explorer front dress. Also looking to see how much room I have for a new radiator. The 3core champion is the same thickness as the current 4 core. The 4 core champion is 3/4" thicker.

[Rox Crusher]

Are you planning to run the Taurus electric fan instead of the explorer clutched fan, or both ?

[sykanr0ng]

Have you considered the Lincoln Mk.VIII electric fan?
As I understand it that moves more air than any aftermarket fan by a huge margin.