Cage tie-ins

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Justin
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Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2010 11:04 pm

Cage tie-ins

Post by Justin »

I'm planning to tie my cage in to the body at the cowl (windshield bolts), top of the windshield, door posts, and at the back. Goal is to increase cage integrity a little and to decrease body shake a lot. Any reason this is a bad idea? I'm assuming the body doesn't need to move a little, but figured I'd double check.
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Digger
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Re: Cage tie-ins

Post by Digger »

Been working fine for me. Stiffened up the body quite a bit.
Cummins R2.8 diesel, ZF5, AtlasII, HP44/BB9, ARBs, coiled / linked suspension, 37" KO2s, full cage, bumpers, etc.
Build Thread: http://www.coloradoclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5420

Average 23.5 mpg, Best tank: 26.3 mpg
Trailpsycho
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Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2020 4:37 pm

Re: Cage tie-ins

Post by Trailpsycho »

Mine mounts through the body to the frame at 6 points front of floor, B pillar a d rear corners...plates under the body with tube to frame....Bolts through cage-plates, floor and secured via under plates. Overkill, but zero flex in the body.

Hope to catch up with you soon Justin!

Cheers!
25th yr of ownership of my '76; ~3.5 yr frame-off restomod completed (100; 90+% by me) in '07 included '96 5.0 Explorer mated to NV4500, Terra Low D20, 4.88s F&R (ARBs) secured with Cage long arms and Deaver Leafs (5.5") topped with a Crab-style cage tied 6-points to the hot-dipped frame which rolls on 35" BFG KM2s on eagle alloys (flat back-as all trim) protected by sweet protofab plates F&R. it's never done. Just finished a delayed ( 3 yr) Explorer OBD-II upgrade, moved here. Now, needing to update emissions...seeking advice on that.
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