9" yoke/ujoint questions

[Gunnibronco]

Alright, this is buried inside my axle swap build thread, I wanted to get more eyes on this than might be watching the other thread. I need to get this project running again, soon.

I'm swapping in a 79 Bronco Ford 9". The yoke is for the 1330BigCap (w/1-1/8" caps). My driveshaft has the stock 1310 ujoint. There is no 1310x1330BC conversion u-joint, that I've found. If there is one, please let me know.

Since (if) there is no conversion u-joint, replacing the yoke is my only option. I'll replace the driveshaft when I swap t-cases, maybe going auto tranny too. This will be a while, probably more than 1 year.

What does the length of yoke matter? I'm confused. On ringpinion.com, there are 2 lengths noted 4" & 5". Some of their listings show the 4" for Daytona pinion support, other don't. I don't have the yoke in front of me, but I think its 4" (I don't think its a Daytona pinion support- its factory). None of the other vendors list lengths. The length measurement is what Carquest had trouble matching. Can I use a 5", if the old one is 4", or vise/versa? I don't see why not.

Since yokes are expensive, and I expect to upgrade driveshafts in the future, what size yoke should I buy?

Option #1: Use a 1310 yoke, the advantage, all u-joints on the truck are 1310. The disadvantage, when upgrading driveshaft, I'll probably buy a new yoke, again. I could steal one (right length?) off my old 9", but want I to sell it complete, so that isn't permanent.

Option #2: Use a 1330 yoke, with normal cap sizes, not the 1-1/8" caps. I'm not sure, but I think I can get a normal 1330 yoke. Disadvantage, it doesn't seem the 1330 is much of an upgrade to the 1310, a little wider, but the same size caps. Advantage, I already bought & installed a 1310x1330 conversion joint for my driveshaft.

Option #3: Use a 1350 yoke. Advantage, I think this is the joint size I'll end up with after upgrading the driveshaft. I think there is a 1310x1350 conversion u-joint. I know this won't be much stronger than the 1310, but saving $100.00 in the future......

Any other ideas are appreciated.

Chad

[Shawns Fords]

I dont know how well your parts houses are equipped out in Gunnison but what I did to get me by on my 64 F100 to make the shaft I had work with the combo I have. I spent about 2-3 hours with a Feller at Havana auto parts on East Colfax (NAPA) who is no longer working there but was a great parts guy. we found a universal joint that had offset caps to allow my junkyard shaft fit up to the Ford 9" yoke. Its the strangest thing ive seen but it works until I can get a new shaft made for it. Its a Big block C6 going to a ford 9 with a shaft from a 78 Grenada. I guess what im saying is, there has to be a universal joint out there to get you buy until you finish the other conversions. Might not be a simple tack in the hills though.

[ZOSO]

There is a conversion joint. I have a 1310 yoke on my d44 and a 1330 shaft. Took me a while to find one. got it at autozone. I'll get the part number for you tomorrow.

[Gunnibronco]

Call up Randys Ring and Pinion or Driveshaft Doctors in Denver. Tell them what you got going. There should be a conversion joint out there.

Thanks, I'll call tomorrow & see what is up.

There is a conversion joint. I have a 1310 yoke on my d44 and a 1330 shaft. Took me a while to find one. got it at autozone. I'll get the part number for you tomorrow.

I've got a Carquest 1310-1330 conversion joint. It doesn't fit the stupid, special 1330 that Ford used. Normal 1330 joints used all (4x)1.062" caps. On some Ford rear ends (at least the 79 Bronco I bought), used a 1330 that used (2x)1.062" caps on the driveshaft & (2x) 1.125" caps on the pinion yoke.

I did find a conversion joint made by Ford, it comes with an extra set of big caps, so it fits 1310x1330 & 1310x1330BC. It is available from Jeff's & Complete Offroad. The down side, it leaves me only one choice for u-joint, probably not readily available at your average parts store. I'm going to check with Carquest & Napa tomorrow.

After some quick reading, I'm thinking of sticking with 1310s throughout, even after upgrading the t-case. Lately, I've been thinking a lot about weak links. I'm hoping to build a drivetrain with easy to access weak links. I'd rather have a driveshaft u-joint break than just about anything else. Ring/pinions, axle u-joints, cases, etc. are all much more difficult to change in the field than a driveshaft u-joint.

There is some interesting info here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html

Very little extra strength from the 1330 vs 1310. The 1310 has better max angle than 1330 & the stronger 1350. I think I'll never (at least in the next 10 years) need the strength of the 1350. I'd guess you'd have to upgrade to 35 spline axles & nodular case to keep from breaking 31 spline stock axles or case, instead of the u-joint. If I upgrade to 35 spline axles, all bets are off & the added cost of a yoke is minimal.

Conversion joints are all greaseable, therefore weaker than solid joints.

Since I'd have to shell out $30 for the Ford joint, it makes finding a 1310 yoke more affordable, since I can re-install my old 1310 joint I just removed from my driveshaft.

I still don't know what real difference the length of the yoke has. I can't imagine much, unless your driveshaft is maxed out and you put on a shorter yoke.

Chad