Aluminum radiator/electric fan

[totalchaos]

I had a question for you guys about a cooling issue Ive been having the bronco started overheating and I replaced the thermostat still overheated Im currently not running a fan shroud on the bronco and no overflow and Im sure that has something to contribute to my problem but Id like to buy a new set up that would guerantee no overheating on the trail I was just seeing what everyone else is running to point me in the right direction..I was thinking about buying a 3 core aluminum radiator with a 16 inch electric fan,and also a new overflow jug..does anyone recomend this or should I just go with the stock set up and fan and just throw a shroud on there with an overflow and hope she dont overheat anymore?any help would be appreciated before I start ordering this stuff up..

[Kinder]

My setup is completely stock so I don't know if it will help - 302 w/ 2 bbl, stock fan w/ shroud & overflow bottle, stock thermostat & radiator (I do have long tube headers though). It does fine except at speeds over 60 where the heat want to build up under the hood and it pushes the temps to 200 plus, but not over 210.

[Rox Crusher]

I believe that the OEM arrangement is capable of cooling most EB.

- OEM spec radiator in good working order (boiled out / cleaned)
- fixed blade OEM style fan
- good shroud (OEM or Ron Davis)
- overflow bottle
- 195 degree thermostat (OEM calls for 180)
- 13 PSI radiator cap

I had overheating issues until I replaced the flex fan and the special high dollar aftermarket (kool?) water pump.

Having said that there are so many variables in play including proper timing, no air pockets, etc.

[totalchaos]

So I guess what u guys are saying is try installing a shroud and overflow tank..and if that dont work replace the water pump? I just want to be sure cuz I dont need to deal with this headache on the trail Id rather have a system ran that Im sure will keep my rig cool..seems alot of these broncos have this problem..

[totalchaos]

one more question if my water pump is out how do i tell? grab the water hoses and feel for flow? also if it is out I have one of those akward water pumps how do I find out what water pump to order or I guess what year my motor is so I can order the correct one its been hard enough geting thermostats and gaskets and other parts not knowing what that dang motor came out of and what year

[Justin]

How hot is your truck getting? A shroud is a must and will likely make a big difference. The overflow tank isn't as critical, but it's cheap and easy. I'd do those before I'd mess with the water pump.

[Jesus_man]

Start easy and work your way up. Build or find a shroud. You'll probably have to modify a stock one for the body lift you have. An overflow never hurts. A good radiator cap is a must.

I am running the stock radiator (3-core) from a '94 F-250 from which my 351 came from. And a mechanical fan. It works too good. I can have the engine up to temp on the trail, but once I start moving at 30mph or more, it cools way down, to like the mid 100's.

The only time I overheated was in the winter and I had cardboard blocking the entire radiator climbing up Gold Camp Road.

J.D.

[Booger]

one more question if my water pump is out how do i tell? grab the water hoses and feel for flow? also if it is out I have one of those akward water pumps how do I find out what water pump to order or I guess what year my motor is so I can order the correct one its been hard enough geting thermostats and gaskets and other parts not knowing what that dang motor came out of and what year

Most of the time the water pump starts to leak antifreeze out the little vent hole on the bottom snout of the pump. Another thing is noisy bearings. I think I can count on one finger the times I've seen a pump where the blades of the pump were eaten away from corrosion. Pump is likely not your problem.

I'm in agreement on the shroud. Make sure the radiator is good and clean and no corrosion also. Make sure you have a good cap as well. I think I have a 16 lb one on mine, that way it won't puke antifreeze when it warms up a little. I also have my aftermarket puke tank on the drivers side firewall. I had no other place for it because it's a little crowded under that hood.

Mine runs anywhere between 170 and 210. 170 to 190 most of the time on the road and up to 210 wheeling. I also have a seven blade fixed fan not the stock flex fan. It moves a ton of air at slow speeds but might be a little harder on the pump bearings.

[hockeydad4-22]

Shroud, Fan and a really good flush. I know that I have had motors overheat because sludge builds up in the radiator and motor as well. Top it off with a new cap and overflow bottle if needed and I bet you are good to go.

[totalchaos]

Well don't know if I made a mistake or not but I went ahead and ordered a 3 core aluminum radiator with a 16 inch electric fan and thermo sensor..Im gonna cut out a piece of tin or sheet metal around the fan so it draws all the air through the fan and hope to heck it stays super cool..guess if it don't work then ill go back to the stock fan and buy a shroud..I'm crossing my fingers

[Justin]

I recently installed a Champion 3 core aluminum radiator and it dropped my temps about 30 degrees. I suspect this has a lot more to do with how crudded up my old radiator was than how great my new one is. When you make the sheet metal thing for the electric fan you'll need to bend the edges in to make it more like a shallow box (like a shroud). Otherwise you'll be pulling cool air through only the part of the radiator that has the fan on it and the rest will be blocked off.

[totalchaos]

Ok ill do that thanks for the info

[socofn]

Just had mine flushed and re-built for $95, and on the initial run it works great. Let me know if you want the name of the place I used here in Pueblo. Good luck. Jayson

[totalchaos]

Ok I got one more question for u guys I installed the radiator and electric fan today and in order to make the fan work I had to install a thermo relay switch problem is were my temp guage ran into the intake is were I had to instal the thermometer part of the new switch for my fan..question is can I splice into the fan thermometer switch to get a temperature reading on my guage or is there somewhere else I can run the guage sensor to get a reading on the motor temp?

[Viperwolf1]

Some thermostat housings have a boss you can drill/tap. I think that would work well for the fan switch. It may not work well for the temp gauge because the temp would swing a little with the thermostat opening and closing.