Rocker replacement questions
- Justin
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Rocker replacement questions
I've got part of the rocker cut out this evening and looking at it got me thinking. I'm planning 2x6 tube steel sliders. Is there any reason I can't cut the rocker panel really short and make the slider flush with the underside of the upper sheet metal of the rocker? In other words, could I cut off pretty much the entire rocker and weld in the steel tube? I'd have to trim the bottom of the door down some to make it fit, but it would give tons of clearance, save me a decent amount of repair work and save some $$ on sheet metal.
- Entourage
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Re: Rocker replacement questions
Makes a lot of sense - I like th idea.
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- Gunnibronco
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Re: Rocker replacement questions
Not sure what you mean about trimming the bottom of the door. If you are talking about cutting off the bottom edge of the door, I think you shouldn't do that. The outer door skin is wrapped/folded over the inner door shell, and if you take any material off, the skin will break loose from the door shell.
"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the bastards." ΓÇô Claire Wolfe
74-AWB 98", ZF5, Atlas4, HP609s, ARBs, 37's, 3.5" lift-5.5" front coil springs, Tahoe rear springs, EFI 302, h-boost, 4x4x2 hyrdo assist, custom dash & gauges
72 U15- Explorer Sport-Candyapple Red (1 of 141)
74-AWB 98", ZF5, Atlas4, HP609s, ARBs, 37's, 3.5" lift-5.5" front coil springs, Tahoe rear springs, EFI 302, h-boost, 4x4x2 hyrdo assist, custom dash & gauges
72 U15- Explorer Sport-Candyapple Red (1 of 141)
- Justin
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Re: Rocker replacement questions
That's pretty much what I'm thinking. Could door have 1/4" of material trimmed off and then welded back up? I haven't measured it to see how much I'd have to clearance it, but you've got the general idea.
- Gunnibronco
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Re: Rocker replacement questions
I don't think that is a great idea. The door skin is normally folded over the door shell, not welded around it. It could be done but the results would probably be ugly.
I've thought about removing my rockers and installing sliders, but the threads I've read left the door sill in place and built the slider under the door sill. I haven't put much thought to it, and noticed that the aux gas tank sits slightly lower than the rocker, so it isn't in my plans right now. I'd leave my door sill, and probably build/fold a rocker tight to the door sill, then install the slider under the fab'd up rocker. Without some structure under the door sill, it will be flimsy. I don't have much bookmarked, but here is a thread about sliders, I think there is some discussion of raising/removing rockers here:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... =rock+skis
I've thought about removing my rockers and installing sliders, but the threads I've read left the door sill in place and built the slider under the door sill. I haven't put much thought to it, and noticed that the aux gas tank sits slightly lower than the rocker, so it isn't in my plans right now. I'd leave my door sill, and probably build/fold a rocker tight to the door sill, then install the slider under the fab'd up rocker. Without some structure under the door sill, it will be flimsy. I don't have much bookmarked, but here is a thread about sliders, I think there is some discussion of raising/removing rockers here:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... =rock+skis
"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the bastards." ΓÇô Claire Wolfe
74-AWB 98", ZF5, Atlas4, HP609s, ARBs, 37's, 3.5" lift-5.5" front coil springs, Tahoe rear springs, EFI 302, h-boost, 4x4x2 hyrdo assist, custom dash & gauges
72 U15- Explorer Sport-Candyapple Red (1 of 141)
74-AWB 98", ZF5, Atlas4, HP609s, ARBs, 37's, 3.5" lift-5.5" front coil springs, Tahoe rear springs, EFI 302, h-boost, 4x4x2 hyrdo assist, custom dash & gauges
72 U15- Explorer Sport-Candyapple Red (1 of 141)
- sbolt19
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Re: Rocker replacement questions
Most guys trim the rocker up to the last 1/4" and don't get into the door lip. I plan on cutting my rockers one of these days to match my rear quarters, but I wouldn't touch the door. You get into the structural integrity of the door then.
Look at that thread from CB that Gunni posted. I like the pictures that are in post #9 & #12 the best. I don't like the tube sliders on the rocker themselves because it is still the rocker holding the majority of the vehicle if you land on something. Rockers/sliders tied into the frame are stronger, and if you weld the bottom of the shaved rocker to the slider, it strengthens the tub in that spot as well.
Look at that thread from CB that Gunni posted. I like the pictures that are in post #9 & #12 the best. I don't like the tube sliders on the rocker themselves because it is still the rocker holding the majority of the vehicle if you land on something. Rockers/sliders tied into the frame are stronger, and if you weld the bottom of the shaved rocker to the slider, it strengthens the tub in that spot as well.
- Jesus_man
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Re: Rocker replacement questions
Justin - I would also recommend against cutting your doors. You will get plenty of clearance by leaving the door sill in place.
You've seen mine and while they have held up well, I wish I would have welded them to the frame and not the body as I think I am having some effects of the body cracking at some of the seams.

I left 3/4" if the rocker in place. The vertical tube is butted up against the bottom side of the door sill and the inner rocker to add strength. We pressed both pieces into place using floor jacks, tacked them together, pulled them down and stitch welded them together. Finally back into place to weld to the body. They are 3"x1 1/2" for reference. It might have been a little more ideal to have them stick out a bit further by using 3x2 for the inner vertical tube, but I am still happy.
One thing I wish I would have done is make them air-tanks. Have too many holes in them now.
You've seen mine and while they have held up well, I wish I would have welded them to the frame and not the body as I think I am having some effects of the body cracking at some of the seams.

I left 3/4" if the rocker in place. The vertical tube is butted up against the bottom side of the door sill and the inner rocker to add strength. We pressed both pieces into place using floor jacks, tacked them together, pulled them down and stitch welded them together. Finally back into place to weld to the body. They are 3"x1 1/2" for reference. It might have been a little more ideal to have them stick out a bit further by using 3x2 for the inner vertical tube, but I am still happy.
One thing I wish I would have done is make them air-tanks. Have too many holes in them now.
1973 Bronco, 351 SEFI, Locked, discs, 35's ZF-5spd and Atlas 4spd. 235:1 Crawl Ratio. It may be ugly, but it's slow.
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- RJLougee
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Re: Rocker replacement questions
I did mine all the way to the bottom of the door sill. I cut it off about 1" below the door, then folded the edge up so I would have a double thickness of metal to stitch weld to. On the back I cut it about 1.5" down, butted the back of the 2" x 6" rectube against it and drilled a bunch of holes through and fillet welded.
Joe
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'70 Bronco, MAF 5.0, NP435, D44/9", 4.10s, 33" MT/Rs, PS/PB
'71 Bronco, HP D60, Hi-9, 5.38/ARBs, 101" WB, 408 Stroker, AOD, Atlas, 40" MT/Rs, PiMP EFI.
'78 F150 SWB/Stepside/4WD, 351W/4R100/NP205, 35" KM2s, under const...
'81 Coachman Caper XL MH, 4WD, EFI 460/ZF/BW1356, D44/Sterling, 4.10s/35s, under const...
'83 Bronco, D60/Sterling, 5.13/ARBs, MAF EFI 351W/ZF/BW1356, 37" MT/Rs.
'12 Buggy, HPD60, Hi-9, 4.10s, Explorer 5.0, Atlas 4-speed, my chassis, EB skins.
And the latest project is a '99 Ranger Extra-Cab, custom frame/tube work, on 40s...
'71 Bronco, HP D60, Hi-9, 5.38/ARBs, 101" WB, 408 Stroker, AOD, Atlas, 40" MT/Rs, PiMP EFI.
'78 F150 SWB/Stepside/4WD, 351W/4R100/NP205, 35" KM2s, under const...
'81 Coachman Caper XL MH, 4WD, EFI 460/ZF/BW1356, D44/Sterling, 4.10s/35s, under const...
'83 Bronco, D60/Sterling, 5.13/ARBs, MAF EFI 351W/ZF/BW1356, 37" MT/Rs.
'12 Buggy, HPD60, Hi-9, 4.10s, Explorer 5.0, Atlas 4-speed, my chassis, EB skins.
And the latest project is a '99 Ranger Extra-Cab, custom frame/tube work, on 40s...