Landsharks 76er Refresh and Build

[Shawns Fords]

Nice work, just an FYI POR makes a product for the underside of the body, they have floor pan kits as well as various other products.

[landshark]

I have a can of Chassis Saver that i think i might use on the body... too much paint for me to remove without taking the truck in to get blasted.. i have to have bare metal for POR-15

they also make a BLACKCOTE which looks to be glossy vs matt finish.. for the under side of the truck i dont think it matters too much.. iam covering the axles frame and hardwre in por-15 then chassis saver... so i think that combo will work ;)

[Jesus_man]

Take a look at Anchor paint as well. Sounds similar to Blackcote.

[Gunnibronco]

You are kinda doubling your work/cost by applying both products. I think they are both designed to work on their own, and achieve similar results (sealing in rust from oxygen). I know Chassis Saver is very thick. I've never used POR. If it needs a topcoat to look/stay nice I'd choose something cheaper. I'm only making this suggestion because I've never heard of anyone using both products. Other wise, if you want to do it I'd check with the manufacturer's and see if they are compatible, I'd hate to see a bunch of money wasted. It would be bomb proof if you do both.

[landshark]

por 15 is UV sensitive, so was going to topcoat with chassis saver which isn'nt UV sensitve... if i use paint i think the paint would chip off and expose the por15 and lead to fading.. which is the only thing that the UV rays do... fade the black of the POR15..

I will look up anchor paint and check it out!

[Gunnibronco]

Right on. I thought POR had a specific topcoat. The Chassis Saver is tough stuff, plus it comes in some colors. Mine would still look great on my axles, if I hadn't followed up my axle swap, with a through soaking of the front end in brake fluid. Tried using a pressurized brake bleeder, won't do that again.

[landshark]

Almost ready to start sealing the frame and underbody, have a bit more clean up work todo... lesson learned.. next time iam taking the body and frame in to have done, its cool to get to know every crevice of the bronco but I could have used the time to concentrate on other bits that need to be done.. but oh well - onward and upward

Anyway i have started thinking about the rust spots that need to be repaired and took a few photos of the problem areas. I have a good idea on what to do on most of the areas however a little advice is always welcome!

I'm fighting the urge to get the suspension together and then stripping down the tub and just get it blasted patched and then painted... but sadly its not in my budget right now... so reluctantly it can wait.

Anyway, here is a breakdown of what I have to patch, replace or ???

The front side walls of the engine bay are pretty obvious, patch them up (after i get the frame back on the body). Pretty straight forward.

Drivers Side




Passenger Side








Next up is the front side front door pillar post on the drivers side. I was thinking the whole post would have to be replaced. But maybe i can patch it and make sure i seal the inside real good with a decent rust inhibitor? i tried to get some pics up inside.. the rot really doesn't go up too far and I couldn't find any underneath or on the hinge side of the post... what would you guys do?

Drivers side pillar.











Passenger side door pillar...















My next areas are the two rear lower corner panels, one had been patched or partially patched as it turns out.. a little bondo on the bottom of the tail light panel.. feel right out when i hit it with the needler.. anyway thinking i should just make up new sections for each side and bend them into shape.. however it might be better to just replace both ends? thoughts?

Drivers side











Passenger side







and so the last area(s) the quarter panels... the passenger side seems to be the worse bit. Not sure what to do besides to go and replace both panels.. which would really be a bummer since no other part of the quarter panel is rusted and Iam trying to keep the truck as original as possible.. anyway.. advice?

Drivers side quarter panel.





Passenger side quarter panel









Anyway those are my areas to work on... i know compared to some rigs its not that bad.. but I'm not a body guy and seeing how iam restoring this truck back to original and I want to make sure its done right. Any advice is welcome

I expect I can seal the frame and most of the body and then tackle the patches once the suspension is back together...so i have some time...

[landshark]

And just a few pics of the frame and underbody.. almost there..











got most of the dirt and sand out of the frame.. i will give it a good rinse and do the best i can to clean it up before i drag a rag soaked with por-15 through...

[Justin]

Wow, you've been busy. That is a major difference. Looking good!

[Entourage]

Frame and undercarriage is looking good! It takes a long time to get it down to bare metal. I used Aircraft stripper on the old undercoating and stubborn places. If you are worried about the inside of the frame, there is a paint for spraying inside the frame but it may just be a way to take your money. Someone like Zilla, Gunny, or Flatliner maybe able to speak about there experience with that stuff. I just sprayed water and air into mine in hopes of getting all the dirt and dust out in the prep phase and sprayed regular POR15 and top coat into the ends of the frame.

[landshark]

thanks! yes it been a fun time getting the underbody and frame clean.. still going through and hitting up the areas i missed.

I ended up useing a scaler / needeler form harbor frieght.. it quit working about 2 hours into removing the undercoat but took it apart sanded down the piston and then lubed it up real good and has been great since. I should be completly done with the frame and ready to por-15 it pretty soon, going away this weekend otherwise it would be done.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/specialty-air-tools/compact-air-needle-scaler-96997.html

i got the inside of the frame pretty good, scraped what i could from the holes in it then put the vacuum in there and got most of the pebbles, sand and other stuff that was in there.. i know its not perfect but i think i will run some water in there before the weekend and let it dry out until monday.

I was going to run a sponge or rag soaked in por-15 through the frame.. i bought one of those nylon drain snakes and think it should work pretty well.

Also was thinking about picking up a sealer that has one of those flexible tubes on it and just give the inside of the frame a good hit..

Honestly iam not too worried about the inside of the frame. I think it will be fine.

I do have a game plan for the under body. I am going to go over the entire underbody to make sure the old seam sealer is removed then clean the entire thing with a good solvent, prime it, then use Fusor 800EZ for the seams outside and inside, then chassis saver over that.. should work pretty well.

[Gunnibronco]

There are kits that have long flexible tubes with tips that spray out in all directions that can be used to coat insides of frames & body panels, with undercoat or ambercoat (wax). Any good autobody supply shop should be able to find them. The tubes & tips can be snapped on to any undercoating aerosol can. If you are interested, I'll find out who makes them tomorrow when our rep comes to town. Really, though the inside of the frame is not going to just fall apart because you didn't seal it. Maybe if we were back in the rust belt of the Midwest I'd worry about it, but here in Colorado you are probably fine.

[777mechanic]

body doesn't look to bad , but make sure that your seams are spotless as in no rust or it will wick water and bubble out after paint . that's what pushed me to have mine blasted and just said the heck with the time line and just do it once and do it right . frame looks great when i shot mine i used cheap chassis prime and flooded it into frame from both ends . great job so far

[landshark]

body doesn't look to bad , but make sure that your seams are spotless as in no rust or it will wick water and bubble out after paint . that's what pushed me to have mine blasted and just said the heck with the time line and just do it once and do it right . frame looks great when i shot mine i used cheap chassis prime and flooded it into frame from both ends . great job so far

iam going to probably patch, prime then try to match the paint this year.. then blast the tub/body next year and do a real paint job.. but i will make sure all the rust is taken care of.

thanks the feedback keeps me going

[landshark]

not much to report, have been busy with work so not much progress in the garage but will start up again in the next few days..

pulled the rear end apart to get it ready to be blasted and rebuilt. Starting pulling the old bearings and races off tonight.

[landshark]

Took most of the day but got a bunch of parts cleaned and painted...

a friend of mine dropped off a engine hoist and engine stand as well so hope to have the engine pulled this week and then get back to sealing the tub and the frame and finally get things moving into "put back together" mode!

Yes this is modern art ;)

[landshark]

Made some progress...

Finished building the Dana44 and put it on a dolly to make it easier to roll around the stamp size garage.

[Moab Mike]

Nice work Chris, can't wait to see the end result.

[landshark]

Finally got everything out of the way to pull the engine and get it on the engine stand.









i will be slowly tearing the engine down and cleaning and refreshing it when i get tired of doing other stuff.. the engine will probably be the last thing that goes in.

[landshark]

Viper stopped by and dropped off a beautiful transmission and transfercase, I covered them and put them in the corner.. good motivation to get this done!

[landshark]

Nice work Chris, can't wait to see the end result.

thanks, feels good to have something together versus tearing something else apart!

now that i have the engine out of the way It will move a little faster as far as getting the frame finished up and the body sealed...

[Jesus_man]

That is looking great!! Keep that motivation!

[Colorado75bronc]

looks awesome chris! can't wait till you get it going

[landshark]

Started to clean the next batch of parts for por15 and paint. Only got the rear axle and main gas tank coated tonight.

A huge thanks to zillicon for taking the time to weld up a sketchy seam on the rear nine.

I think I'm going to seal the inside of the main tank. It looks pretty good but one end seems a bit iffy.

[landshark]

Got the rear gears set and center section, seals, axles shafts into the rear 9".

Cleaned up all the rear drum brake parts to get them ready to be installed, still need to see if I can save my rear drums or have to buy new ones.

Also took a few hours to finish prepping my frame, its ready to be painted finally!

Warm weather is here for the next few days so it will be a great time to get the painting done before it gets cold again...

anyway a few pics

[landshark]

Got the frame coated and sealed yesterday.. what a long day but well worth it.













Iam going to let the frame cure for the next few days then start to prep the underbody for seam sealer, primer and then some paint...

[landshark]

Lookin Sweet! Hurry up so we can get it dirty.

iam trying!

Honestly iam 2 months out.. and even then thats optimistic.

I have some big purchases that I will need in order to complete the build and i have to space them out over the next few months...

in no particular order...

TRE's / Steering
Engine refresh/rebuild parts
Radiator (non-aluminum)
Emissions 302 heads (going to look at the pick n pull)
Shocks (going with bilstien 5100's)
New Tires (Undecided)
New Carpet and sound deadening
Probably another $800 in misc parts

I will need to strip out the old seam sealer inside and reseal and then spray over that as well. Most of the interior can be fixed as I go and I can drive it in the mean time..

[HorseMan]

WoW! you really are getting the job done! Looks great. A very detailed build

[Gunnibronco]

Love the look of the new Chassis Saver on all that stuff. My Chassis Saver'd axles were dirty pretty quick, I never planned it to look good for long. Is that the satin black (I think thats what they called it)? I'm going to do the same to the frame & drivetrain on my "new" 39 Plymouth when I get going on that project. Looks great!

[landshark]

i por15 it first then about 4 or 5 hours later did a coat of chassis saver.

here is the por15



then after the chassis saver...



you can see its not as glossy but i kinda like it... I will do touch up after everything is together.. but i tried to get every knook and cranny.. was tough on the welds, went through 3 packs of sponge brushes.. but they were el cheapo ones..