Fixing a mis-aligned door opening - could this work?

[landshark]

I just acquired my 69 recently and the previous owner replaced most of the panels (awesome) so no rust. However there is a major fitment issue with the passenger door.

I have messed around with it some and as the PO used some shims on the lower hinge to get the door to close I increased them a bit more to allow it to close easier... the problem is its still not closing properly or anywhere close to it. There is a huge gap at the rear of the door from top to bottom and it binds some at the window hinge/door hinge area if i try to align it properly. basically the door hangs too low near the latch. I dont think shimming will solve this problem as I have almost 1/4" of shims on the lower hinge.

I have been thinking on how to solve this issue and have an idea. I was thinking of taking the fender off, loosening the front passenger body mount and using a highlift jack or bottle jack with a metal plate/rod to open the top of the passenger side door opening a bit. I dont think it needs much, maybe less than 1/4" to spread it open. I believe this would solve the door fitment issue and one other problem, the window hinge leak. The front hinge isn't closing on the rubber seal that sandwiches between it..

has anyone attempted this? if i leave the top on and loosen things up this theoretically should work, i was thinking of using the cage inside the bronco so the rear door post doesn't crease...

My handy dandy illustration...

The yellow arrow is the opening i want to increase, the circle is the window hinge seal that isn't sandwiched and the other arrow is the movement the door needs to make to properly close and be aligned.. basically the top hinge needs to go forward.



Thoughts?

[akaFrankCastle]

Odd question, but...
Did PO use new door hinges during his rebuild or reuse the ones that were on there before? I have the exact same issue, however mine is caused by worn out hinges.

Have you put a tape measure on the door opening yet, top and bottom, to see how far off the panels may be?

My only concern with the high lift/bottle jack technique would be the weld at the top of the front door post. And while you might successfully get the panel pushed forward, I think you would actually be bowing it out. Hard to explain in words. I'll try to draw it up.

[Gunnibronco]

I have the opposite problem. My truck was put on its side by a PO and not fixed right. My A pillar is pushed forward & inward, causing all sorts of alignment issues. How does your hood align with the fenders/grill/cowl? Because my pillar is pushed in, my hood opening is out of square.

I'd measure upper & lower openings on both doors & compare, to start. If the measurements are the same top/bottom & left/right, don't adjust the A pillar. If your pillar is misaligned I'd expect some hood opening misalignment too. Measure across the hood opening diagonally and see if it is square.

Pull your striker post first, and put it back in last, after everything is aligned.

I'd align the rear of the door with the quarter, body lines aligned & gaps (@ quarter, rocker, roof & windshield) right, and make sure it opens & closes easily & seals against the weather stripping. You can shim the inner bolts of the hinges to move the door forward or shim the outside bolts on the hinges to move the door back, if you don't wan't to push on the A pillar. After the door is aligned & closing right,I'd check how the fender aligns to the front of the door & be prepared to adjust the fender too.

I hope it was just the pics, but the driver door looked like it was lower than the fender. too.

[landshark]

Odd question, but...
Did PO use new door hinges during his rebuild or reuse the ones that were on there before? I have the exact same issue, however mine is caused by worn out hinges.

Have you put a tape measure on the door opening yet, top and bottom, to see how far off the panels may be?

My only concern with the high lift/bottle jack technique would be the weld at the top of the front door post. And while you might successfully get the panel pushed forward, I think you would actually be bowing it out. Hard to explain in words. I'll try to draw it up.

he rebuilt them, he did use a drill press to drill them out but since i also rebuilt mine i know the score... I think the hinges are ok honestly but I I guess i wont know until i find some new ones to compare to.

I have not had a chance to measure distances, but here soon.

My last resort is to spread the opening Iam going to measure and try a few things first before I go and start bending stuff!

more ideas the better thanks!

[landshark]

I have the opposite problem. My truck was put on its side by a PO and not fixed right. My A pillar is pushed forward & inward, causing all sorts of alignment issues. How does your hood align with the fenders/grill/cowl? Because my pillar is pushed in, my hood opening is out of square.

the hood to fender openings look good.. but the passenger fender looks like its been tweaked a little at the door opening.. the openings for the door piller bolts/screws that hold the fender to the door post have been opened up... looks like the pillar is too far back or the fender is too far forward.. i think more pics are in order...

I'd measure upper & lower openings on both doors & compare, to start. If the measurements are the same top/bottom & left/right, don't adjust the A pillar. If your pillar is misaligned I'd expect some hood opening misalignment too. Measure across the hood opening diagonally and see if it is square.

Pull your striker post first, and put it back in last, after everything is aligned.

yup iam going to measure to see where iam... then pull the striker post and see what i can get the door to do.

I'd align the rear of the door with the quarter, body lines aligned & gaps (@ quarter, rocker, roof & windshield) right, and make sure it opens & closes easily & seals against the weather stripping. You can shim the inner bolts of the hinges to move the door forward or shim the outside bolts on the hinges to move the door back, if you don't wan't to push on the A pillar. After the door is aligned & closing right,I'd check how the fender aligns to the front of the door & be prepared to adjust the fender too.

I hope it was just the pics, but the driver door looked like it was lower than the fender. too.

I can 't get the door to even close if I dont use shims on the hinges...its too low to clear the rock skis...

The drivers door closes fine.. its just open in that picture ;)

I talked to the PO.. he says everything lined up pretty good before he started bolting down the 2" body lift (he added another 1" at some point).. i think tightening down the lift tweaked the body some so iam going to pull the passenger door and measure everything.. then maybe start playing with the body lift on the passenger side floor pan.. he has about 3" lof body lift in there, i would love to remove 1" at least.. I think I will have to run a 2" minimum.

[Gunnibronco]

The more you explain, the more I think you are right. I think that measurements will show that the pillar needs pushed forward. Sounds like they may have tweeked the fender & "adjusted" the holes to make it fit.

I didn't really answer your question about how to move the pillar. I think your plan with a bottle jack is solid. We used 4 ton & 10 ton Port-a-Power to do exactly that at the body shop. Just a fancy bottle jack really. While you are pushing watch the panel and make sure it isn't distorting like akaFC mentioned. I think there is enough play in our upper door openings to push it around without damage. Go slow, and a little at a time. You may have to push it a little too far, sometimes the panel will spring back after you release the jack. You are right to pull the fender & loosen the front body mount, its all going to move & need realigned. Expect the hood to move too.

[landshark]

yup, well i will take measurements and then play with the mounts and see where its sits.. if its close.. i will be ok but right now its nowhere near close.. and the door is very VERY hard to close.. iam surprised the window hasn't shattered... i'm thinking less than 1/4" will do it..

its all new to me so some playing around will be warrented

i have to give it to the guy.. he replaced pretty much every panel on this rig.. so having just the door off is pretty good in my book since he has never tackled body work before

[Justin]

Bottle jack sounds like it'd be worth a try. The other option is to drill out the spot welds (assuming he installed it that way) and actually reinstall the door post. Major pain, having done it sort of recently. Try the bottle jack first.

[Dukietown]

Since it's a trail truck just take the doors off. Problem solved!

[landshark]

Since it's a trail truck just take the doors off. Problem solved!

Ha yes.. that is an option, and one that I have already considered but want the doors to work well just in case ;)

[jcb9089]

For me, door alignment is the worst thing on these old broncos, especially if the door posts were not put on right.

what I do is measure using this chart and then try to even out the vertical gaps by adjusting body mounts, then shim the hinges to even the gap. My dad is an old body guy and uses porta power to adjust somehow without breaking or damaging. Good luck!

[landshark]

cool thanks dude.. iam going to do some measurements this weekend and see if i can tweak the body mounts to compensate.. not sure whats going since I didnt' build it..