Broken shift collar ID

[Gregg]

It's been breaking for awhile and Moab did it in. Thankfully at the last trailhead. Either way it's time to order replacement parts and I'm not sure which ones to get based on the history. It's a 71 but it was converted to an auto before I got it. The collar is cracked all the way through the center piece, the indicator switch housing back plate looks to be missing a tab, and the shift tube looks to have a piece broken off. The wiring was a mess but I'm looking to replace it all and have a functional horn (as opposed to a doorbell). Here are some pics.

[akaFrankCastle]

No idea on what specific year your shifter is from. But, if it lacks and emergency flasher switch on the steering column, it is pre-76.

The tab on the shift tube isn't too bad to reattach. Just make sure and keep the welds small and effective.

WH sells an import shift collar that fits quite nicely. Or you can spend a little extra for one that was OEM.

If you're not too concerned with original, maybe convert over to the 76-77 style column pieces and repurpose your dash mounted hazard switch for something else (fog lamps?).

[akaFrankCastle]

Did your shift position indicator piece have a black plastic shroud over it before?

[Rox Crusher]

In that last pic...............your shaft appears to be hanging out / exposed

[Gregg]

There is a place where a hazard switch would go.
There was a black cover over the gear indicator thingy
I have my hazards on the dash and I like em there. I guess the column hazard would be a cool fog or map light option.

[Moab Mike]

In that last pic...............your shaft appears to be hanging out / exposed

I out half of my beverage!

[akaFrankCastle]

There is a place where a hazard switch would go.
There was a black cover over the gear indicator thingy
I have my hazards on the dash and I like em there. I guess the column hazard would be a cool fog or map light option.

Then I am pretty sure you have a 76-77 style column.

[Moab Mike]

I have a parts column that you can use whatever you need out of it.

[Viperwolf1]

It's a '74-'77 column. Turn switch is hard to ID because part of it is missing. Looks like it's '73 or earlier version. That's why the screw hole is in the wrong place.

You can repair the shift tube by welding the tab back on. I would probably just go ahead and use the correct turn signal switch and add a horn relay. You can also add a light wire for the shift indicator. Hazard switch wiring is easy if you want to use the column switch.

Get these parts:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-170 ... arket.html
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-170 ... 73-77.html

[Eck]

It's a '74-'77 column. Turn switch is hard to ID because part of it is missing. Looks like it's '73 or earlier version. That's why the screw hole is in the wrong place.

You can repair the shift tube by welding the tab back on. I would probably just go ahead and use the correct turn signal switch and add a horn relay. You can also add a light wire for the shift indicator. Hazard switch wiring is easy if you want to use the column switch.

Get these parts:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-170 ... arket.html
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-170 ... 73-77.html

What he said.

[Gregg]

Cool. I'll order some things tomorrow.

Where would you tack weld the tab that fell off so it wouldn't interfere? The wide sides, narrow sides, or corners?

Does anyone have a diagram or link of the connection from the signal switch to an aftermarket Grant horn?

Thanks again.

BTW- I'm ignoring any shaft comments.

[Viperwolf1]

Cool. I'll order some things tomorrow.

Where would you tack weld the tab that fell off so it wouldn't interfere? The wide sides, narrow sides, or corners?

Does anyone have a diagram or link of the connection from the signal switch to an aftermarket Grant horn?

Thanks again.

BTW- I'm ignoring any shaft comments.

Weld the tab so the tube still fits in the collar. Probably the short ends.

You probably need a grant installation kit for '74-'77.

[akaFrankCastle]

Where would you tack weld the tab that fell off so it wouldn't interfere? The wide sides, narrow sides.

I just did one of these a few weeks ago, so learn from my trial and error.

The tab should have two indentions on it from where it was spot welded to the shift tube before. Drill them out and use them as the first two points to weld. Second, if you want to weld the sides, you can really only do the narrow side that winds up oriented in the steering box end of the shaft. If you weld to the narrow end on steering wheel side or wide sides you will find the tab and newly attached shift tube will not slide fully into the shift collar nor seat completely.

Just my experience. Your results may vary.

[Gregg]

I ordered the collar and switch. The switch will / should have 2 spring loaded prongs for the horn so I also got the horn relay #3294 (1967-74 ford bronco. The 1975-77 only has 1 wire) :
http://www.grantproducts.com/files/inst ... -00-01.pdf

I talked to a grant guy who said that the steering hub will have a contact plate on the back with 2 wires. This contact plate should rest against both prongs on the switch. The 2 wires should go through the hub, post cover, steering wheel, and to my 2 prong horn button (which I have to cut the ground ring off of). I wont need the contact ring or contact retainer ring. Does all that sound correct? Am I missing anything?

[Viperwolf1]

If the new switch has 2 contact pins you won't need the relay. The '74-'77 switch has 1 contact pin.

[Gregg]

I've gotten the collar, switch (with 2 horn pins), and welded the tab per Zach advise ( fits great- thanks man). I'll start putting in the new parts tomorrow.....However, the new switch wires don't match the connection under the dash. I was hoping to put male ends on the new wires and use the existing connection.

My dash hazards work great and would prefer to keep it. But if it is easier to bypass them for ease, I'm game.

I've posted a couple of pics to guide the "re-wiring advise " you've got.

Thanks guys.

[Viperwolf1]

'72-'73 Column Connections
Blue=12v from turn flasher to turn switch, circuit #44
white-blue=right front turn and indicator lamp, circuit #2
green=right rear brake and turn lamp, circuit #282
green-white=left front turn and indicator lamp, circuit #3
yellow-black=left rear brake and turn lamp, circuit #283
red-black=12v brake switch to turn signal switch, circuit #810
yellow=12v headlight switch to horn switch, circuit #460
blue-yellow=horn switch to horn, circuit #482

'74-'77 Column Connections
Blue=12v from turn flasher to turn switch, circuit #44
white-blue=right front turn and indicator lamp, circuit #2
green=right rear brake and turn lamp, circuit #282
green-white=left front turn and indicator lamp, circuit #3
yellow-black=left rear brake and turn lamp, circuit #283
red-black=12v brake switch to turn signal switch, circuit #810
blue-yellow=12v horn relay to horn switch, circuit #1
white-red=12v from hazard flasher to hazard switch, circuit #385
blue-red=12v from headlight switch to PRNDL light, #19

The '74-'77 wires are a close match. You have one extra wire for the horn. Switch must be from full size truck or Bronco. Match the blue and yellow horn wires to your existing ones. Light blue/red wire gets connected to dash light circuit (same color wire). You can use the column hazard switch by running a wire from the hazard flasher output (white/red wire) to the turn switch. Then you can use either hazard switch or just unplug the one in the dash.

[Gregg]

My first question is the flight cost from California to N. Colorado (just a one way is all I need)...

Breaking down the previous post:
Horn wires---good
The Light blue/red wire does not have a matching color on the connection. Is there another color wire for the dash light circuit?
For the Hazards, I can run the white/red wire to the turn switch (where is that connection / wire color?) and both hazard witches will work?
Then the remaining switch wires match up to the colors in the connector?

Viper---Dude, thanks for your patience and knowledge. I guess we can call it even after i saved your ass so many times in Moab.

[Viperwolf1]

You don't have a matching blue/red wire at the connector. You need to run a wire from a dash blue/red wire.

Hazard wht/red wire runs between the hazard flasher and the old switch. Add a wire to it and bring it down to the column. If you leave the old switch plugged in both should work. Or you can unplug the old switch and use it for something else, like your power asswipe or hair curler.

[Gregg]

You so funny....

Blue/red wire tapped into a blue/red wire behind the dash. So now I can see "R" in a dark alley. Sweet.
Hazard white/red to the old hazard switch or "multipurpose" power supply
All other wires match.

I don't know why you were all so confused.

[Gunnibronco]

Blue/red wire tapped into a blue/red wire behind the dash. So now I can see "R" in a dark alley. Sweet.

What are you doing hanging around in dark alleys?

[Eck]

Blue/red wire tapped into a blue/red wire behind the dash. So now I can see "R" in a dark alley. Sweet.

What are you doing hanging around in dark alleys?

Fulfilling promises.

[Viperwolf1]

Blue/red wire tapped into a blue/red wire behind the dash. So now I can see "R" in a dark alley. Sweet.

What are you doing hanging around in dark alleys?

Its an instinctive reaction for him to push back in dark alleys.

[Gregg]

Ha ha motherFs. I got the column put back together and will do the wiring tomorrow or Saturday. I'm in a hurry cuz I'm losing clients in those dark alleys. Thanks for covering for me Chaney.

[Gregg]

Back on the road and runnin awesome! Thanks again!