akaFrankCastle wrote:Much easier now than after the motor mounts are snug.
I know-- which is also why I'm doing EFI and front serp swap now. I am trying to be less impatient with the Bronco build these days. Although I'd love to be driving it sooner than later-- it'll be worth the wait.
akaFrankCastle wrote:Disregard my previous. I'm now reading about high volume pumps causing premature dizzy gear failure and cam wear.
Yep and if you run em at high RPM you run the risk of sucking the pan dry if you dont have big enough pan volume or have some work done to the drain back holes.
Rob
74 Ranger EFI351w, 4r70w, ARB 5.13 9in, ARB 5.13D44, and a bunch of other goodies. Best of all the family memories.
04 Mustang Cobra, KenneBell 2.2 feeding a lot of boost on E85. Tire shredding machine
New project: 77 Bronco Ranger, body work and more body work.
Very little left of a 72 durango tan explorer sport
Eck, have you put any thought into a block heater for the winter?
Stroppe'd 1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.
The Terrible One 1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.
Most will keep coolant at around 50*F, or heat to that in about 2 hours if you plug in in the morning.
Oil temps are kept warmer as well, not as high as coolant though.
Basically just makes sure the oil can move a bit easier during true cold starts. And gets your heater pumping out actual heat faster for cold mornings.
I'm planning to throw one in my block when I get around to building it. Mostly because I park outside, will be daily driving, and lack the patience to be driving in an icebox until my coolant reaches operating temp.
Stroppe'd 1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.
The Terrible One 1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.
akaFrankCastle wrote:Most will keep coolant at around 50*F, or heat to that in about 2 hours if you plug in in the morning.
Oil temps are kept warmer as well, not as high as coolant though.
Basically just makes sure the oil can move a bit easier during true cold starts. And gets your heater pumping out actual heat faster for cold mornings.
I'm planning to throw one in my block when I get around to building it. Mostly because I park outside, will be daily driving, and lack the patience to be driving in an icebox until my coolant reaches operating temp.
That makes sense. Mine stays in the garage, is the furthest thing from a daily driver, and will see limited usage during winter. Probably not something I'll find a lot of usage for. Not to mention I'm trying to cross things off my to do list not add them!!
I do have another question on the Explorer front dress swap. The machine shop rebalanced my crankshaft instead of the harmonic balancer. Do I need a new flywheel? The one I had was I believe 28oz. I think I would need a 50oz, correct?
Eck wrote:I do have another question on the Explorer front dress swap. The machine shop rebalanced my crankshaft instead of the harmonic balancer. Do I need a new flywheel? The one I had was I believe 28oz. I think I would need a 50oz, correct?
Rebalanced crankshaft for what reason? Was it to balance it for the new piston mass or to make the explorer balancer work? They would have needed a flywheel and balancer on it to do the balancing. I don't believe it's common practice or a good idea to remove crankshaft material to go from 28 oz-in to get to 50 oz-in. 351W's are all 28 oz-in.
Eck wrote:I do have another question on the Explorer front dress swap. The machine shop rebalanced my crankshaft instead of the harmonic balancer. Do I need a new flywheel? The one I had was I believe 28oz. I think I would need a 50oz, correct?
Rebalanced crankshaft for what reason? Was it to balance it for the new piston mass or to make the explorer balancer work? They would have needed a flywheel and balancer on it to do the balancing. I don't believe it's common practice or a good idea to remove crankshaft material to go from 28 oz-in to get to 50 oz-in. 351W's are all 28 oz-in.
For what it is worth, I did give the flywheel to Scott at MPG. He re-surfaced it and used it to balance. He told me that he felt the best way to balance was to balance using the crank for adjustements-- it doesn't always work out that way, but if it does, it is the best way. Obviously I don't have the first clue what the right and wrong ways to do it are-- I am just trusting the proffesionals on this one.
What I feel the benefit is, is if I ever need to replace the harmonic or the fly wheel-- I can just buy a stock part. So, I guess the flywheel I have (28oz) is what will work.
Did he have the Explorer balancer when he balanced it? It might be worth a call to him to verify that you are good to go with that balancer as is. They don't last long when the parts get mis-matched.
EFI Guy wrote:Did he have the Explorer balancer when he balanced it? It might be worth a call to him to verify that you are good to go with that balancer as is. They don't last long when the parts get mis-matched.
Viperwolf1 wrote:You're not going to want to use that breather. You can't have unmetered air entering the engine.
Do I need new head covers or need a different breather set-up?
I am looking for some advice on how to make sure I have everything necessary for the EFI swap and would really like to maybe even set-up a tech day. If anyone is interested in learning with me what is involved in the swap. Would also need someone that knows what they are doing to help me know what to buy for the swap beyond the obvious things I already have.
For the gaskets-- do I look up gaskets that work for the 96 explorer intake, 86 351W heads, lightning lower intake?
I have not been able to find any clear tech type articles that have been done for the Explorer EFI swap into a 302 or 351. Oldfuelinjection does not have a list of items-- just a picture and vague suggestions (ie. gaskets, intake manifolds, etc.).
You'll want to use a sealed oil cap to replace the breather. I'm not sure if anyone makes them for a push in style valve cover. My valve covers are twist in style and it was kind of a pain to find a sealed oil cap for them.
For the intake gaskets I'd just buy a set for Lightning 351. Look carefully at the water jackets though to make sure the gaskets will seal them. I know there were a couple of design changes through the years but I don't know exactly when they were.
I can probably swing by for a few after the Platte river meet and look over things with you.
Here are a couple pics of an incompatible head/intake gasket set. The gap left a significant antifreeze leak. These were a Fel Pro gasket #1250S3. I ended up getting a set listed for the 74 Bronco and they worked.
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"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the bastards." ΓÇô Claire Wolfe
74-AWB 98", ZF5, Atlas4, HP609s, ARBs, 37's, 3.5" lift-5.5" front coil springs, Tahoe rear springs, EFI 302, h-boost, 4x4x2 hyrdo assist, custom dash & gauges
72 U15- Explorer Sport-Candyapple Red (1 of 141)
Thanks for the responses. Garry-- if you had time to come by Saturday, that would be great. I have read through the CB posting above and there is some good info in there. Would love to have you help me get my "to-do" list together.
Gunnibronco wrote:Here are a couple pics of an incompatible head/intake gasket set. The gap left a significant antifreeze leak. These were a Fel Pro gasket #1250S3. I ended up getting a set listed for the 74 Bronco and they worked.
I had the 1250S3 on my last setup. These are the gaskets that came with the engine rebuild kit- from what I can tell, they fit. Thoughts?
Gunnibronco wrote:Here are a couple pics of an incompatible head/intake gasket set. The gap left a significant antifreeze leak. These were a Fel Pro gasket #1250S3. I ended up getting a set listed for the 74 Bronco and they worked.
Ran in to the same issue when jtsbronc and I did his EFI. Ended up going with the EB intake gaskets.
Its a problem with the front/rear water ports on the heads, if they match the heads, I think they'd be fine.
"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the bastards." ΓÇô Claire Wolfe
74-AWB 98", ZF5, Atlas4, HP609s, ARBs, 37's, 3.5" lift-5.5" front coil springs, Tahoe rear springs, EFI 302, h-boost, 4x4x2 hyrdo assist, custom dash & gauges
72 U15- Explorer Sport-Candyapple Red (1 of 141)
Eck, I can't find my receipt with the part number for the upper radiator hose I used.
But here is the info I had posted in another thread a while back.
"Another option.....
For the upper radiator hose I used one from a 1998 Crown Vic with a 4.6 motor which works perfectly with the 5.0 EFI motor and the stock Bronco radiator.
You have to trim off about 5/8" from the water neck side but other than that it is perfect.
I think it fits a lot cleaner than the GTO hose which I used previously."
Rox Crusher wrote:Eck, I can't find my receipt with the part number for the upper radiator hose I used.
But here is the info I had posted in another thread a while back.
"Another option.....
For the upper radiator hose I used one from a 1998 Crown Vic with a 4.6 motor which works perfectly with the 5.0 EFI motor and the stock Bronco radiator.
You have to trim off about 5/8" from the water neck side but other than that it is perfect.
I think it fits a lot cleaner than the GTO hose which I used previously."
Still working slowly. Had to plug quite a few holes on both upper and lower intakes. Getting this to fit. Hoping to have everything more or less mocked up by the end of the weekend so I can schedule at least stabbing the engine.
I picked up some sweet valve covers from a fellow Bronco owner in Littleton - thanks Chris. The oil neck is gonna need to be changed. As you can see, it comes straight up into the intake. I'd like to weld it to an angle and I need a screw on type oil cap. The diameter measures 3.5cm and appears to be aluminum. Any suggestions of where to get the neck and where to take it to get it welded at an angle?