Eck's 351W build thread

[Eck]

So I've slowly been chipping away at stuff this week. Man has been cold out! I've gotten the power steering hoses made and hooked up.


Fuel rail and heater hose rail are hooked up. I've gotten most of the fuel lines and pumps hooked up with the exception of the fact I am using 3/8 main fuel line and all of my connection are 5/16th. I ordered some hose barb reducers from JEGS that should help me finish the fuel lines.

One question- can I use the regular plastic fuel filters or do I need special high pressure fuel filters?

I had the inlet/outlet swapped out on the radiator. Seemed easier than trying to find tubes that fit. Now I can easily carry spares or buy if they burst somewhere remote.



I'm also trying to hook up the water pump to the heater hoses. The short one seems very difficult to "turn" without crimping it. I cant really go any longer because it would stick out into the serpentine belt. Any ideas?



Was hoping to be able to fire it up by this weekend but I don't think it'll happen. My new goal may have to be by Thanksgiving!

[Rox Crusher]

Liquid dish soap on the inside of both ends of that hose.

Then you can twist them both as needed to get them on without collapsing.

[Eck]

Liquid dish soap on the inside of both ends of that hose.

Then you can twist them both as needed to get them on without collapsing.

Really? Never heard that. I can envision suds foaming out either side of my hood while driving down the road!

[Rox Crusher]

If that happens

Just don't try to solve it with a snorkel

[Viperwolf1]

If the fuel filter is in the high pressure part of the fuel line it needs to be a high pressure type filter.

There are molded hoses available for the water pump. Try Part # 20662 at o'reilly or NBH 7447 at Napa for the bypass hose. NBH 10962 at Napa for the other hose.

[Eck]

Worked on the fan shroud today. Bought a 2" strip of 22 gauge steel from Den-Col for $12. Welded it into place and now have a shroud that covers about 3/4 of the fan all the way around.



Also made my coil pack bracket.


Set the radiator in place to ensure fit of the hoses. Well- doesn't exactly fit how is expected. The Explorer hoses don't fit the radiator with the inlet/outlet switched. The upper hose might fit with a little twisting and trimming. The lower hose doesn't fit at all. Fortunately- I've become very friendly with the local NAPA and I've been given permission to walk their stock of hoses to try to find one that will fit.

[akaFrankCastle]

Hurry up so I can start mine.

[Justin]

Looks great, nice job!

[ZOSO]

Hurry up so I can start mine.

Yes hurry up and get all the kinks worked out with EFI guy so next winter when I go to do mine it will go smoothly.

[Eck]

I'm hoping to tackle the wiring this Saturday if anyone who knows wiring wants to come help this poor guy out.

[Eck]

Finally tracked down hoses that fit well.

Dayco 71280 for the upper. I trimmed about an inch off the thermostat side.



Dayco 71017 for the lower. Had to trim about 2-3 inches off the radiator side.


As you can see, got the serpentine belt on - part number 060910 from NAPA. Serp belt from an 89 full size Bronco.

Also installed the clutch fan and shroud. The fit worked out perfect.


Hoping to start and maybe finish wiring tomorrow. Supposed to be warm out if anyone is interested in coming by. I'll be starting around 8:30 and quitting around 1:30.

[Eck]

I am about 95% there. Still have a little bit of wiring to do under the dash but that should take about an hour. Then need to start getting fluids primed and should be VERY close to turning it over.

The one thing that I am still needing to accomplish is the MAF sensor, the air tube and filter set-up. I am not entirely sure how this is all supposed to come together. Can anyone give me some direction with what you bought and where? Also-- does the MAF sensor go closest to the filter or the throttle body? How are people bolting up the MAF sensor? A special bracket that comes with a kit or something?

[Gunnibronco]

I pieced mine together from the junk yard parts I had around, and a 90* plumbing elbow. You could do it more elegantly, but the PVC poop pipe seemed appropriate for my truck. You could even get nice silicone hoses here if you want:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/

If there is not a straight run (6"ish) I was told to make sure there is a screen in front of the MAF to straighten out the airflow. My 55mm MAF had one, I had to add one when I changed to the 70mm MAF.

I made a simple sheetmetal bracket to attach the MAF to the inner fender. The 55mm MAF had bolts to attach it to the bracket, but the 70mm bracket slips between the PVC elbow & the air filter & is secured with the worm drive clamp.

[Rox Crusher]

image.jpg

Here is the dry filter I was talking about. Gunni and I both use it.

I'm using the stock rubber air intake tube off of an Explorer

The MAAF goes between the filter and the tube and my filter is big enough that it kind of supports the MAF (not mounted to the fender).

[akaFrankCastle]

Rox, I'm glad you brought up dry filters. I would caution anyone against using an oiled filter here in Colorado. The damn things go from 0 to filthy way too fast in this environment.

[Eck]

Rox, I'm glad you brought up dry filters. I would caution anyone against using an oiled filter here in Colorado. The damn things go from 0 to filthy way too fast in this environment.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Rox Crusher]

The other thing is that oil type filters can foul up the MAF sensor if over-oiled

[Eck]

So I finally got the engine "done." Had a few issues that Garry helped me figure out last night and fired it this evening.

I've got 2 issues I need some assistance with. It appears I have fairly significant exhaust leaks at the headers. The 2nd issue I'm having is the serpentine belt keeps jumping off the PS pump.

If anyone with some troubleshooting experience would like to lend me a hand sometime soon- I would love to finally get over this hump.

Please and thank you!

-Mike

[D&D72]

It appears in the picture that maybe the PS pump is not aligned correctly.
It neds to be perpendicular to all the other pulleys.
is the header leak at the flanges or the collectors?

[Rox Crusher]

If the serp belt is coming off it almost has to be an alignment issue.

It is hard to tell from the pictures but I think I see the same thing John mentioned and also the water pump pulley / belt looks a little wonky. But that could just be the camera angle ?

[Eck]

I'm also certain the pulleys aren't perfectly lined up but its kinda hard to see where it's not lined up and running off the pulley while in the drivers seat. Another set of hands and eyes would be helpful.

As for the exhaust- it appears smoke is near the heads, but I'm now thinking the pipes could just have some grease that's being burned off. I need to get the serpentine situation fixed first so I can leave the engine running long enough to really tell with the exhaust.

[Rox Crusher]

does the belt get thrown off immediately or stay on for a while ?

I kind of doubt the water pump pulley can be off, most likely the power steering pulley

can you get a straight edge of some kind in there to check them one to the other ?

long piece of skinny angle iron or flat bar could do it

or a piece of string (tape one end to pulley face and see how it lines up to the others)

[Kinder]

That ^ and is the tension pulley pointer between the two wear marks?

[Eck]

I think I've got the belt lined up pretty well- it didn't jump off at least.

It appears I don't have an exhaust leak. I do have a pretty sizable coolant leak but I'm hoping I've traced it to a bad heater hose connection. The coolant hitting the headers was creating a lot of smoke as well as when I first fires it, I think there was some grease burning off the headers.

[Eck]

New problem- ran engine for about 90 seconds and coolant pressure built up so much that it was steaming from the overflow tank. Engine temp was going up pretty high and I shut it off. Thoughts?

[Kinder]

Likely a pocket of air around the t stat, with the cap off & the radiator full "pump" the upper hose so coolant sucks back towards the t stat housing. There is a weep hole in the t stat so do this a few times so that its immersed in coolant and it'll get hot and open.

[Eck]

Likely a pocket of air around the t stat, with the cap off & the radiator full "pump" the upper hose so coolant sucks back towards the t stat housing. There is a weep hole in the t stat so do this a few times so that its immersed in coolant and it'll get hot and open.

Do this once the engine has cooled or while hot?

[Gunnibronco]

Cool, I'd say. If that doesn't work. You might need to purge the air out of the coolant system/engine block. You can run the truck (from cold) with the radiator cap off. Each time the tstat opens it will belch some coolant & air. Keep topping things off as it warms up.

[Eck]

Winner, winner - EFI, rebuilt 351W, serpentine belt DINNER.

Ran engine in slightly more than idle - about 1500 RPM for around 15-20 minutes. Couldn't find any more leaks within the engine and the temp stayed at about 180-190 the entire time.

Have a little bit of a power steering fluid leak at the HP hose at the box. I did not use any thread sealer on this fitting- should I?

I think I'm finally able to tidy up and apply the finishing touches and should hopefully be able to take the first test drive by the end of this weekend!

[Viperwolf1]

Have a little bit of a power steering fluid leak at the HP hose at the box. I did not use any thread sealer on this fitting- should I?

No. It seals at the flare. Crank it down some more.