Cost to rebuild an engine

Post by **Justin** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:09 pm

I may have located a great deal on a 351w, but it needs to be rebuilt. I've already got heads for it that I know are in good condition. Assuming the block is good, what's the cost breakdown for parts, machine work, etc. if I assemble it? How bad an idea is it to put it together myself?

Post by **Digger** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:26 pm

I don't think it is a bad idea to rebuild yourself. You're detailed enough to get the job done, but it will take time. Sometimes it is just worth it to buy a crate engine and GO. They are quite affordable these days.

That being said, how about a Coyote? poke

Post by **Eck** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:33 pm

Justin wrote:I may have located a great deal on a 351w, but it needs to be rebuilt. I've already got heads for it that I know are in good condition. Assuming the block is good, what's the cost breakdown for parts, machine work, etc. if I assemble it? How bad an idea is it to put it together myself?

I think I was into mine about 1200-1300 from Scott at MPG. That was machine work, turn the crankshaft, new cam, pistons, rods, lifters, camshaft break-in. Basically everything but heads, assembly, and all of the "long block" parts.

I'd be happy to help you assemble as I've done it a few times recently.

Post by **landshark** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:42 pm

I Did mine pretty much on my own with some help. Cost me about $950 getting the block machined, bored, crank and heads refreshed. I had Pistons but replaced one with a new one.. That price included pretty much everything to rebuild (engine kit) and assemble. It was fun and I can't wait to do it again actually. I recommend it. I was scared I was going to mess things up but I took my time and double checked as I went.

That engine is in my 76.

Post by **ZOSO** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:10 am

All depends on how wild you want to get. I have about 4500 into the 460 in my 79 and that doesn't include new fancy heads.

Post by **crawlercreations** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:25 am

Anything less than 400 hp is useless so count on at least $5k to get there. poke

Post by **sykanr0ng** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:18 am

crawlercreations wrote:Anything less than 400 hp is useless so count on at least $5k to get there.

TORQUE!

Post by **Justin** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:43 am

I'm contemplating a mild stroker. I've got a set of GT40 heads and don't want to go too much bigger than anything they'll support, at least in the short term. I might do a 393 or a 408, with a plan to upgrade heads down the road. Not really interested in getting enough HP that I start breaking drivetrain parts. I figure the GT40s will support at least a 393 since I'm looking for good bottom end torque rather than the kind of HP that need serious flow.

Post by **landshark** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 1:32 pm

I would go 408 :)

Post by **crawlercreations** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:12 pm

Justin wrote:I'm contemplating a mild stroker. I've got a set of GT40 heads and don't want to go too much bigger than anything they'll support, at least in the short term. I might do a 393 or a 408, with a plan to upgrade heads down the road. Not really interested in getting enough HP that I start breaking drivetrain parts. I figure the GT40s will support at least a 393 since I'm looking for good bottom end torque rather than the kind of HP that need serious flow.

If you want to keep your HP and budget in check don't bother with a stroker. It really adds to the cost in the long run and if you're going to stroke it why stop with sub 400 ft. lbs/hp? A warmed over 351w will give you all the power you are sounding like you are looking for. I built a 351w for my last bronco. Non stroked but World products heads and a nasty cam with 10.5:1 compression and it would roast 42" tires as long as you wanted it to. I swapped the rear gears for open 2.92s on 36s just for highway driveability and could still create a single tire fire as long as I wanted. If you're going to stroke it out do it right and get the power the engine is capable of making reliably. Otherwise you will always want more.

Post by **Digger** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 8:41 pm

Agreed.

A warmed over 351W would provide a good balance of reliability and power. Other than the carb, I'll been real happy with mine. It's nothing exotic, but balanced and blue printed with forged rotating parts makes for a smooth engine at higher rpm. The cam, heads and intake makes decent HP on 85 octane fuel.

Post by **ZOSO** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 5:12 am

With those heads you have a good rotating assembly(stock crank, stock rods, new pistons at 9-9.5:1) and a cam in the 220-225@.050 duration with a matching intake/carb/efi would make some nice power and be very reliable. At that compression it can be tuned to run on 85oct but would like 91 a lot better. You could probably even get away with just a stock H.O cam advanced 4*. Not like you need tons of power with the gearing you have.

Post by **Justin** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:26 am

Thanks guys, the advice and info is appreciated. I ended up passing on the setup I found, but am still in the market for a short block. Ideally, I'd like to find a good deal on something that I don't have to rebuild. I'm pretty happy with the power of the current 302, and only want to upgrade due to the added weight of the 37's and a desire to go a little faster driving up the hills on I-70. I'm a touch undergeared (4.56) for my upgraded tire size but want to keep the highway rpms down with the NP435. If I had to rebuild anyway and needed to put money into a rotating assembly, the stroker kit prices I've seen haven't been _that_ much higher over a rebuild kit.

How about a rebuilt short block? I've seen pricing from the parts stores in the $1300-$1500 dollar range, which would give me a new engine for about the same cost as tracking down a builder core and having the machine work done. It'd also save me a bunch of assembly time, but I'm not convinced that the quality of the rebuild is very high. Thoughts? I'd need to save for awhile, but could probably swing it some time this winter or next spring.

Post by **crawlercreations** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 9:57 am

Justin wrote:Thanks guys, the advice and info is appreciated. I ended up passing on the setup I found, but am still in the market for a short block. Ideally, I'd like to find a good deal on something that I don't have to rebuild. I'm pretty happy with the power of the current 302, and only want to upgrade due to the added weight of the 37's and a desire to go a little faster driving up the hills on I-70. I'm a touch undergeared (4.56) for my upgraded tire size but want to keep the highway rpms down with the NP435. If I had to rebuild anyway and needed to put money into a rotating assembly, the stroker kit prices I've seen haven't been _that_ much higher over a rebuild kit.

How about a rebuilt short block? I've seen pricing from the parts stores in the $1300-$1500 dollar range, which would give me a new engine for about the same cost as tracking down a builder core and having the machine work done. It'd also save me a bunch of assembly time, but I'm not convinced that the quality of the rebuild is very high. Thoughts? I'd need to save for awhile, but could probably swing it some time this winter or next spring.

Stroker kit prices aren't too much more but they require more machining costs. With the speed of your build you may as well build a massive stroker with 500+ hp/torque :laughing2:

The rebuilt short blocks are hit and miss from the parts monkeys. I, personally, wouldn't use one but I've heard of some good luck with them.

Post by **sykanr0ng** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 2:17 pm

Are 351W's that hard to find?

Seen several that I would class as builders on CL for $500 and up.
$275 for a block? crazy

Post by **Rox Crusher** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 2:24 pm

sykanr0ng wrote:Are 351W's that hard to find?

Seen several that I would class as builders on CL for $500 and up.
$275 for a block?

I'm eye balling a 180k mile roller complete at the moment and he wanted 600 and it could be seen running. He has since pulled it and is holding firm on price.

I may have to go the pull n pay route

Post by **landshark** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 3:11 pm

Here's one on cl

Ford 351 Windsor

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/5078700904.html

Post by **ZOSO** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 4:04 pm

Oh and roller cam retrofits are easy to do. So dont just hold out for a factory one. If you come across a good deal thats non roller then do it. I went through this with my 460 in the 79. 2 things that took some time at the machine shop. I Had the heads retro-fitted for screw in studs with guide plates(must have on roller cam) and roller rockers. Next was the custom length pushrods.

Post by **Kinder** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 4:42 pm

Just pulled a 351w '95 roller short block for TFB from the PnP, $130 out the door. I pulled the plugs, pan and heads, every thing looked good. We'll do a ring gap check and a crankshaft end play measurement. If good we'll check the '96 GT heads and decide on a complete rebuild or a build up. Either way it'll be an upgrade from his 1968 351w with 10 psi oil pressure.

www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com