Max engine temp?

[Gunnibronco]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/

I did some reading there a few weeks ago, lots of good info.

I'd take some time and add block off plates that dam the airflow through the radiator, instead of flowing around the rad. There is a kit from WH, I think, that will block off the upper part of radiator. I'd also seal the radiator directly to the core support with some weather stripping, foam, or rubber. Modern manufacturers do a lot to direct the airflow to the radiators. Some is surprisingly simple, like strips of foam you'd put in a leaky door jamb.

[Eck]

Installed the radiator last night and drove it all day today. Overheating issue no longer. Stayed between 192 and 199 the whole day.

I was however really disappointed in the mounts I bought from Wild Horses. I made them work but they didn't have holes drilled for the rubber mounts to stick into and you can see that the welded bolts for the lower mounts are way off from each other. I made it work but I will be letting them know they are garbage!

[Justin]

I think the lower bolts are supposed to be offset. If mine weren't they wouldn't have fit in the brackets. I suspect they're Drake products with Drake's usual level of quality control. Mine got the job done, but could have been aligned better.

[Eck]

Yah- the thing was that the brackets were each different. One was offset and the other was centered. And yes, they were POS Drake products.


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[TOOLMAN]

X3...I think they are Drake and the bottom brackets are supposed to be offset. My bottoms worked well but the upper passenger side was off (on both radiators I installed. I think it either has to do with their template or the fact that my Bronco could be off by a little.

Glad to see the radiator helped!

[Kinder]

Shiny! I'd add the air dams like Gunni suggested, especially on the top of the rad where you have that very large opening.

[Eck]

It would make sense that they'd be offset since they are wider than stock. The 2 I got were so different from each other. I was also more pissed about them having the rubber "nipples" that are supposed to stick out of the metal brackets but there weren't any holes for them. Oh well- at least I didn't have to notch and custom fit them like I've heard other people have had to do.

[TOOLMAN]

I just cut those little 'nipples' off. They're just a retention device. On an unrelated note: Stop using Fram filters! Especially on your new motor. At a very minimum use a Motorcraft (FL-1A I think). I prefer Baldwin, but that's me.

[akaFrankCastle]

Stop using Fram filters! Especially on your new motor. At a very minimum use a Motorcraft (FL-1A I think). I prefer Baldwin, but that's me.

x2. Fram is synonymous with garbage.

FL-1A on the Bronco for me.
Baldwins on the Super Duty. Once the new motor is done for the Bronco, it will be Baldwin'd as well.

[Rox Crusher]

Shiny! I'd add the air dams like Gunni suggested, especially on the top of the rad where you have that very large opening.

I have these and believe them to be a great solution and they make a nice tool tray

[Eck]

Shiny! I'd add the air dams like Gunni suggested, especially on the top of the rad where you have that very large opening.

I have these and believe them to be a great solution and they make a nice tool tray

Rox-- is this what you bought? http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/SS ... am#reviews

You still have the steel hood with the stock hood latch on yours correct? In the description, it has conflicting info-- it says it has a center section that can be omitted if you aren't using hood pins but then it says you can't use the stock hood latch with it.

Have a picture of yours handy?

[TOOLMAN]

Sorry Eck. Didn't mean to yell at you for your oil filter choice. Feel free to give me the finger or a good .

[Rox Crusher]

Shiny! I'd add the air dams like Gunni suggested, especially on the top of the rad where you have that very large opening.

I have these and believe them to be a great solution and they make a nice tool tray

Rox-- is this what you bought? http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/SS ... am#reviews

You still have the steel hood with the stock hood latch on yours correct? In the description, it has conflicting info-- it says it has a center section that can be omitted if you aren't using hood pins but then it says you can't use the stock hood latch with it.

Have a picture of yours handy?

Their description is a bit confusing. If you don't use the center piece and re-orient the end of the hood prop rod so that it mounts to the core support on the engine bay side......you can use the stock latch.

I'm finally getting around to upgrading to Duff's hood struts and won't be using the prop rod anymore.

[Eck]

Ok gotcha. I've already got the hood shocks installed so don't need to worry about the prop rod. You're gonna love the struts!

TOOLMAN- no sweat. I haven't a clue one oil filter over another. Now I know not use the F word!

[Justin]

O'Reilly carries the Motocraft filters. You might pick up a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter while you're there. They claim a potential drop of 20 degrees. Even if it's half that, it's worth the $8.99 or whatever for a little extra capacity on the trail. Red Line is a reputable company, so I doubt it's complete snake oil.

[BOBS 2 68S]

X2 on Water Wetter

[Eck]

Sorry Eck. Didn't mean to yell at you for your oil filter choice. Feel free to give me the finger or a good .

Am I back in the club now? Changed the oil today (and yes, I ensured the old gasket came off the block!)

[Justin]

Yeah, that's a mistake you'll never make again....

[TOOLMAN]