Spindle Nut Torque

[colby45]

What's the best procedure for torquing the spindle nuts on a Dana 30? I've read in a few place to install the inner nut once the spindle and wheel bearing are on, torque it to 50 ft-lbs, then back it off 1/6 - 1/4 turn, install the lock washer, then install the outer nut and torque to 50 ft-lbs. Is this what you guys do? Thanks!

-Colby

[Gunnibronco]

Sounds right to me Never done a D30, but the process is the same for a D44.

[colby45]

Sounds right to me Never done a D30, but the process is the same for a D44.

Yes from what I've read it seems to be the same. That's what I'm going to do then. Thanks!

[akaFrankCastle]

That is the general idea. Torquing the inner lock nut puts the preload on the bearing and keeps the wheel happy. Torquing the outer lock nut keeps everything together and keeps you alive.

I'll pull out the '66 service manual when I get home and check the torque specs but those sound close.

Torquing the outer lock nut too much can lead to you shearing off that little nub on the inner lock nut. And this can lead to the washer locking itself to the spindle as time goes on. We've had a few people have to cut hubs off of spindles to get those things loose.

[Justin]

Spin the hub as you're setting the torque on the inner lock nut. It helps make sure the bearings are seated fully and the grease is distributed well. You'll see the setting loosen up a little as you spin it.

[colby45]

Ah okay good tips. Thanks guys. I'll make sure I spin the hub while I torque the inner nut and I'll be very careful about torquing the outer so I don't end up with things jammed up in the future.

[hockeydad4-22]

Torquing the outer lock nut too much can lead to you shearing off that little nub on the inner lock nut. And this can lead to the washer locking itself to the spindle as time goes on. We've had a few people have to cut hubs off of spindles to get those things loose.[/quote]


I can neither confirm nor deny being part of one such operation in my garage.....

Rumor has it - it is not a lot of fun...

[akaFrankCastle]

...torque it to 50 ft-lbs, then back it off 1/6 - 1/4 turn, install the lock washer, then install the outer nut and torque to 50 ft-lbs. Is this what you guys do?

"The book" says 50/50. Just confirmed. Various sources will tell you the second 50 is not enough. I've seen wildly ranging values from 80-"until you can't go any further." I feel as though I used a 50/80ish the last I did bearings and things have been a-OK.

[colby45]

...I can neither confirm nor deny being part of one such operation in my garage.....

Rumor has it - it is not a lot of fun...

Well if it makes it any less painful for you, I will make it a priority to ensure this doesn't happen, so you taught me a lesson and saved me a future headache!

"The book" says 50/50. Just confirmed. Various sources will tell you the second 50 is not enough. I've seen wildly ranging values from 80-"until you can't go any further." I feel as though I used a 50/80ish the last I did bearings and things have been a-OK.

Great! I'll shoot for around 80 on the outer if that is the consensus. Still 50 on the inner and back out a tad though?

[landshark]

I just did mine, I do the inner by feel as i spin the rotor - the outer I torque to 85 ft lbs.. seems to work well for me.

[Justin]

I do 50/80ish as well.

[colby45]

Awesome. Thanks everyone for your input. I only got one side done tonight as I went slow to make sure I didn't overlook anything. Spindle nuts torqued to 50/80ish which seems to be just fine. Hub spins freely and the bearing seems to have seated (I also spun it while I torqued the inner nut). I'll finish the other side tomorrow. The only thing that kinda sucks is that I ordered replacement brake lines from the knuckle to the drum (I ended up cutting the others trying to take everything apart) from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard and they don't seem to fit so I'll need to figure that out.

[Gunnibronco]

What about them doesn't fit?

If the threads on the rubber hose don't match the steel line, simple adapters are available. Not all stores carry brake line adapters, but between my local Carquest & Napa, they usually have what I need.

[colby45]

The bends in the line just aren't quite right so the fittings don't line up on both sides. I have tube bender so I'm just gonna tweak things a bit and see if I can't get it to line up.

[colby45]

It seems they are just about a half inch off:





Sorry for the poor picture quality. It's tough to get my phone back there. Bending to tweak them the right way isn't going to work I think. Can I replace those with some braided stainless steel line of some sort or something?

I found a forum on CB.com with someone complaining of the same issue on a very early '66, which is what mine is: http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... p?t=240185

So maybe the brackets aren't the same on the early ones. Wouldn't be the first time I've run across one of these little idiosyncrasies with the very early 66's...

[Gunnibronco]

You are probably right about the early 66 stuff not matching.

I'd replace those rubber hoses too.

[colby45]

Yeah those and all the other lines need to be replaced. I have half a mind to do the lines, and a disc brake conversion while it's all taken apart.

[phyler]

Yep, that's how mine started. Decided to do the disc swap instead of just fixing the blown wheel bearing. It goes downhill from there, in a good way. :-)

[colby45]

Yeah its that whole, "While I'm at it..." snowball effect. But it is always good. I started out replacing front axle u-joints and have already made it to disc brake conversion. Don't know how that happened!

[Gunnibronco]

The upgrade from drums to disks is time & money well spent. I'd seriously consider it. You know, while you are at it.

[colby45]

Yeah I agree. I'm trying to stay pretty close to stock, but I think an exception can be made for the disc conversion given it comes down to safety. Plus, looking at some of the kits, it doesn't look like it's too terribly involved to do.