Winch mounting

[Gregg]

I've got an 8000lb winch that I'd like to mount like the following:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... p?t=128621

image.jpg

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... p?t=128621


With the winch tucked up as far as it can go, the cable from the bottom would have a significant angle to go up to the fairlead. I read a little that suggests reversing the cable (so it comes out on top) would negate the braking mechanism. Keeping the cable where it is would spool just below the bumper and not have a place to mount the fairlead.

I'm just in the planning phases so any thoughts are welcome.

[Jesus_man]

I'd talk to the winch manf about the brake. If it does negate it, then I don't really see a problem with allowing the cable to roll over the bottom roller 90% of the time. That's what the rollers are for.

Do yourself a favor and buy a descent snatch block if you don't already have one.

[landshark]

You should be fine at a angle using a roller fair lead. As mentioned that's what they are for. Make sure the wire doesn't contact metal before the roller so the cable doesn't fray.

[Viperwolf1]

Damn Shawn! I didn't think there would be much opportunity to pull winch cable at the mall parking lots.

[Justin]

You should be fine at a angle using a roller fair lead. As mentioned that's what they are for. Make sure the wire doesn't contact metal before the roller so the cable doesn't fray.

X2. You might put some bracing behind the bumper to support the fairlead, but otherwise it should work fine.

[Rox Crusher]

my welder is getting lonely waiting to help with this project

[mickphatmac]

If you make your license plate flip up and lock while you are using your winch, I think I might pass out!!!

I really like the "stock" look design without the Huge bumper sticking out!!!
Nice work

[Gregg]

Small change of plans:
I'd have to notch most of the bottom part of the bumper to keep it close to the grill. That would take out lot of the integrity. Plus the steep angle of cable to the fairlead (attached to the weakened bumper) didn't sound too good for my Mall Winching. So here's another idea:
Keep the cable just under the bumper, switch to synthetic cable, put a hawse fairlead on the existing tray.

[Rox Crusher]

Sounds like a good plan.

How far does the bumper stick out compared to stock location ?

[Gregg]

About 2".

[Viperwolf1]

Stock bumpers aren't known for their strength.

[sykanr0ng]

LoCoFoMoCo Racing makes stock looking bumpers out of 1/4" plate, and customizes them in many ways.

[Gregg]

LoCoFoMoCo Racing makes stock looking bumpers out of 1/4" plate, and customizes them in many ways.

Are they free?

[Justin]

No, but they're easy to build.

[Gregg]

I've got all the mounting plate and hardware finished. Big thanks to Justin for welding the spacers to the winch plate!

image.jpg

image.jpg

I'm currently trying to wire the winch correctly. I'm looking at the installation manual online:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/B1PHLur32FS.pdf
If anyone has a smitybuilt XRC8, I could use some confirmation:
From Motor:
A: long black cable with (no cap) to "-" battery
B: short black cable (with red cap) to "2-" on solenoid
C: short black cable (with yellow cap) to "4" on solenoid
D: short black cable (with black cap) to "3" on solenoid
Red cable from "+" battery to "1+"

Wires coming out of solenoid:
Black wire to "A on motor"
White wire to "4" on solenoid
Brown wire to "3" on solenoid
Green/yellow wire to remote
Blue wire to remote

Red wire from "1+" to remote

[Viperwolf1]

Wiring looks correct. Those solenoids sound troublesome though. Here are some tips: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t ... te-up.html

[Gregg]

Good call. I read something about RTVing the solenoid over at TacomaWorld.com while I was looking for a solenoid diagram. I went ahead and sealed it while I was waiting for someone to look over my post. I'm not sure I want to tear into the winch to replace the grease just yet.

I tested the winch and it worked great. I only had to switch 2 remote wires so the "in" was in and the "out" was out. Next, I put it on the tray, mounted the tray (which fit almost perfect) and now I'm working on the stock bumper fit. It'll be out a couple inches but the spool lever is going to mess things up. I'm not sure what to do with that just yet. I'll post up more pics when I have the bumper on.

[Viperwolf1]

I wonder if it might be possible to re-clock that entire gear housing 90 degrees. If it's all one piece with the mounting base then probably not.

[Gregg]

I had a great idea to re-clock the gear housing to move the spool lever out from behind the bumper. As luck and time would have it, it worked great. In combination with the bumper out 2", the lever can be reached and turned easily (I'm leaving out the 5 hours of time to figure out how to re-clock and fix the rusted up lever spring and bearing).

image.jpg

image.jpg

All I have left to do is:
make and mount the control box ( which I may have a few pink zip ties for that)
Get a hawse fairlead and synthetic line
Touch up paint
Get stuck somewhere.

Big thanks to all that helped with ideas, pics, and welds!

[sykanr0ng]

You may not want the spool lever to be too accessible.
There seem to be a lot of punks that like to mess with winches on parked 4x4s

[Viperwolf1]

It looks pretty good. I mean, it would, if I could see it, which was the goal.

[Justin]

Looks great! Seems like a really good solution given your goals for the rig.

[Rox Crusher]

Shawn, that turned out great.

Can't wait to see it in person !

[Moab Mike]

Shawn, that turned out great.

Can't wait to see it in person !

Ditto!

[Gregg]

It'll be at the breakfast tomorrow if you're going....

[Moab Mike]

It'll be at the breakfast tomorrow if you're going....

In sunny So Cal and won't be making it.