Digger wrote:Yeah, see if anyone here has an axle for you first. 4 wheel parts is not the best source for technical expertise, especially compared to this place.
x eleventy billion. Most of those guys are clueless. If I was shopping there, I had part numbers otherwise I got wrong parts 100% of the time. Prices are usually good tho, but I always did my homework ahead of time.
that's a much better price than four wheel parts. $107.45 for a factory replacement and brand-new. I just spent $70/each to have new bearings pressed on each of the old ones. Thanks, I'll definitely check there first next time.
1969 Bronco Sport-302-3 Speed Hurst on the Floor-Dana 20 TCase Dana 30 Front-9" Posi Rear w/ 4:11's 32"s-No Lift
So I finally have my 9" back together. Unfortunately, when we DC'ed the rear drive shaft to drop the pumpkin, my brother knocked both caps off the U-joint sending bearings everywhere. I picked one up today thinking all you had to do was take the snap rings and U-bolts out and it would drop out and of course It didn't :) Do you need to remove the rear drive shaft to replace that U-joint or can it be done on the truck? I was outside in the rain for about 4 hours putting the rear end and brakes back on my truck so didn't have a ton of time to mess with it before dark, thought i'd ask.
Are the caps removed to take it out or does it slide out as one piece? When the new one is put in do you put the caps on after its in place or all at the same time?
Thanks
Alex
1969 Bronco Sport-302-3 Speed Hurst on the Floor-Dana 20 TCase Dana 30 Front-9" Posi Rear w/ 4:11's 32"s-No Lift
If you can find all the bearings or get a new joint and use the bearings out of it as long as your current joint is good. That way you don't have to replace it [emoji3]
To replace it you will have to take the drive shaft off. You will have to press the joint out and back in with some kind of press. You can probably get away with a vice and some ingenuity but make sure the joint is pressed in straight and go slow.
