69 Dudes-- Just the beginning

Post by **Digger** » Wed Apr 27, 2016 12:30 pm

Eck wrote:As far as the noise goes, thank you Digger and Landshark for confirming the noise is "normal." I did research it and it seems like the noise I am getting is the common noise. Landshark-- you mentioned the clutch fork-- am I mistaken in that the internal slave cylinder on the ZF S5-42 eliminates the clutch fork? It seems that most people either just eventually ignore and learn to live with the noise or they change the oil and that helps. I will throw the new oil in and see if it helps.
The interwebs tells me that Windsor block ZF5 use an internal slave while 460 and 7.3 ZF5s use an external.
Internal VS External

ALIGNMENT NUMBERS:
I was hoping someone chimed in because I truly don't know a whole lot of what that means. I figured I would drive it a while and if it feels fine and the tires wear ok, then it is all good. But, I am open to more expert opinions than those of my own!! To answer your question Digger, I am running 4* bushings. There was 1* built in and the idea was that the 4* bushings would work on a 3" lift. I did keep my 7* bushings if you think that would be a better fit...
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7118&start=90

Throw those 7┬░ bushings in. You need to be 3┬░-5┬░ caster

Post by **landshark** » Wed Apr 27, 2016 1:31 pm

Ha I forgot again about my zf vs small block and wasn't thinking

Post by **Eck** » Wed Apr 27, 2016 6:04 pm

Well, things got a little worse today. The stainless braided line that comes out of the bottom of my master cylinder is a really tight fit against my wheel well. I am certain that all of the taking out the master cylinder to bench bleed has done the damage, but I now have a leak where the solid metal piece hits the braided part.

My question now is whether I remove the transmission to get to the slave so that I can install and use a stock line with the quick connect, or if I cut the stainless braided line and try to fix it? I believe these fittings from Summit will work (http://m.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281/). I'm not very familiar with plumbing of braided lines, how would these attach to the braided line? Also- would this be possible while the other end is still attached to the slave?

Post by **Eck** » Wed Apr 27, 2016 8:12 pm

So I am fairly confident that that the above mentioned link to those fittings work for the master cylinder. I'm not 100% positive the hose from my BC line is for use with -3 AN fittings but I will assume it is?

Will this fitting connect the hose to the MC quick connect? http://m.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1110

This would solve my wheel well and line fitment issue. This would also save me massive amounts of time and frustration to just repair the line.

Post by **Justin** » Wed Apr 27, 2016 8:20 pm

Most rebuildable hose fittings are designed to be used with a specific type of hose, and often a particular brand and model number of hose. I can't speak to whether that Aeroquip fitting would work if you cut the end of the hose, but I wouldn't try it without knowing exactly what kind of hose you're dealing with. I'd start by calling BC to ask.

Post by **BroncoCrawler** » Wed Apr 27, 2016 8:35 pm

http://www.technafitstore.com/category-s/1850.htm

Might try these guys two. But I'll second what Justin says. I buy hydraulic fittings from emrich & hill locally but they sell aero quip which will only work with aeroquip. There is also the Parker store which obviously sells Parker and whistler bearing has a hose section also. Whistler can make DOT brake lines on the spot while you wait.

Post by **Eck** » Thu Apr 28, 2016 10:05 am

Took a trip down to On Track this morning. I had cut the end of the hose with the clamped MC fitting off and brought it with me. I gave them the Russel fitting part number that is on the Summit website and they were able to get it on a truck delivered to them tomorrow morning (no extra shipping charges and they are only going to charge me for 1 and not the pair). The hose that BC uses is -4 hose and the new Russel fitting is -3 AN. So what we decided on was a -4 AN hose to female fitting. Then a reducer from a -4 to -3 that will allow the Russel quick release fitting to work.

I am really hoping this does the trick and I don't have too difficult a time getting everything to fit. I also talked with Jason at BC and he told me that the only thing they do to bleed their hydraulic clutches is fill the MC and pump the clutch like 100 times. It eventually pushes the air out to the top and will eventually pressurize the system. Had not seen that recommendation before but I may give it a try.

Post by **Eck** » Fri Apr 29, 2016 3:46 pm

So I had to cut a piece out of the corner of the wheel well to accommodate the new longer connection to the master cylinder. After many cuss words and trying to bleed the system, it is finally working.

I have no real explanation but I could not get the "new-new" MC to work. I finally resorted to the "old-new" MC because I knew that it at least had pressure at one time. As soon as I closed the system, everything was pressurized. My only explanation to that MC now working is I must have had the leak in the previous fitting the whole time and it got bigger the more I messed with it.

Screw hydraulic clutches. I hate them!! Now to finish up the little things and start the mad dash to Moab.

Post by **Eck** » Sun May 01, 2016 7:22 pm

Unexpected eventful day in the garage. I was finishing up all the final touches for Moab- should've been easy enough. Put oil in the D44, installed the quick air chick on my ARB compressor for my tire pump up kit, cleaned up all the dash wiring and reinstalled the fresh air box. Sweet, I'm done after like 2.5 hours in the garage and even had time to start getting all my tools and extra parts together for the trip. Pulled the Bronco out of the garage to clean up the garage. When I pulled it in, I decided to cycle the ARB's one more time and that is when the crap hit the fan!

I all of a sudden had a leak in the rear ARB. I could hear it leaking out of the driver side axle tube. Called TOOLMAN because I know he had a "similar" issue. Turned out it was the exact same issue. I feel fortunate that he already figured it out and it would take me a fraction of the time to fix it. But, I still had to tear down the entire rear axle to make a minor fix to the retaining tab.

Back in business and hoping that was my only issue. I was hoping to have more time and miles under my belt before leaving for Moab but this seams to be my usual predicament the last 3 years for this trip.

Post by **Viperwolf1** » Sun May 01, 2016 8:22 pm

It's a more memorable trip if you throw it together at the last minute and go out untested.

Btw, I'm going to Moab on thursday.

Post by **Eck** » Sun May 01, 2016 9:15 pm

Viperwolf1 wrote:It's a more memorable trip if you throw it together at the last minute and go out untested.

Btw, I'm going to Moab on thursday.

Awesome. You're coming just to win some prizes at the show and shine aren't ya. Looking forward to seeing the rig in person. Call me when you get in.

Post by **Viperwolf1** » Sun May 01, 2016 9:17 pm

Eck wrote:
Viperwolf1 wrote:It's a more memorable trip if you throw it together at the last minute and go out untested.

Btw, I'm going to Moab on thursday.

Awesome. You're coming just to win some prizes at the show and shine aren't ya. Looking forward to seeing the rig in person. Call me when you get in.

I'm gonna try.

Post by **Eck** » Sun May 22, 2016 12:06 pm

Installed a new PS cooler. Fits perfectly in front of the radiator and should get a lot better fresh airflow than the previous setup.

Post by **Rox Crusher** » Sun May 22, 2016 1:18 pm

Eck wrote:Installed a new PS cooler. Fits perfectly in front of the radiator and should get a lot better fresh airflow than the previous setup.

Interesting, were you having trouble with the fluid overheating / expanding ?

Post by **Eck** » Sun May 22, 2016 1:24 pm

Rox Crusher wrote:
Eck wrote:Installed a new PS cooler. Fits perfectly in front of the radiator and should get a lot better fresh airflow than the previous setup.

Interesting, were you having trouble with the fluid overheating / expanding ?

Yep. Blew the gear box seal in Moab the last day there. Now that I've got the front ARB lockers, I think that combined with the heat just built up too much pressure.

Post by **Eck** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 10:14 am

Bronco Safari this year was kind to me. I won the raffle for this new Bestop Supertop and just got around to installing it. I was very nervous about it fitting in my garage since it is pretty tall at the center of the top. I had to make some adjustments to the garage door and opener to get it to fit but it just barely does fit. It'll be nice to have a full top when going up to the mountains and hitting those unexpected rain storms.

Post by **ZOSO** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 2:21 pm

Nice score

Post by **Digger** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 2:27 pm

2x

Excellent freebie!

Post by **Rox Crusher** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 5:12 pm

Can't beat that with a stick

Post by **BroncoRaider** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 7:22 pm

Looks good Eck!

Post by **rt9** » Mon Jun 27, 2016 7:24 pm

Love this thread. Very nice all around.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

Post by **Eck** » Wed Nov 23, 2016 3:05 pm

Just practicing my engine removal skills again today. Big thanks to Phyler for helping this morning.

Next, my plan is to install the GT40 heads, roller cam and roller cam conversion parts, as well as OEM cam synchronizer.

Couple questions off the bat, my oil filter is completely stuck. I've knocked on it with a dead blow but at this point, I'm up for suggestions on how to get it off as it's just mangled.

Secondly, I thought I was getting a major oil leak either from the rear main or the back seal from the oil pan, but after further inspection, it appears it's most likely coming from the hole at the rear of the lower intake. The grommet is not a very tight fit- any suggestions on this?

Post by **phyler** » Wed Nov 23, 2016 3:45 pm

Just jab a screwdriver through the oil filter and turn it. Messy but effective. Happy to help with the engine removal.

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Post by **Jesus_man** » Wed Nov 23, 2016 3:46 pm

Drive a pri-bar thru it and spin that? Could be risky if the metal jacket tears off instead.

Who changed the oil last?? poke

Post by **Eck** » Wed Nov 23, 2016 3:51 pm

Jesus_man wrote:Drive a pri-bar thru it and spin that? Could be risky if the metal jacket tears off instead.

Who changed the oil last??

Whoever it was that changed the oil last was probably freakishly strong and didn't realize the repercussions of being so super humanly strong...

Post by **Viperwolf1** » Wed Nov 23, 2016 4:36 pm

All those PCV grommets fit loose. You could slip a big o-ring around it to make it fit tight.

And hammer a damn screwdriver into the oil filter.

Post by **Eck** » Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:03 pm

GT40 heads and roller conversion well underway!

Post by **Rox Crusher** » Wed Dec 14, 2016 2:13 am

GT40 baby !

Post by **kbank6** » Wed Dec 14, 2016 8:11 pm

Very Nice..

Post by **Eck** » Wed Dec 14, 2016 9:31 pm

Well after 2.5 days of work, Phil and I fired it off. It sounds great and I think we were able to find the root of why I was having so many issues with the cam synchronizer gear (will post up about that later). Engine sounds great but can't speak to the drivability yet cuz this is where the frustration starts.

We spent close to 5 hours trying to bleed the stupid hydraulic clutch (I replaced the line on it while I had the engine out). Still won't bleed and I tried every trick in the book to get it to build pressure. Best we got it was about 2/3rd slave cylinder engaged. We ran out of brake fluid, propane heat, flashlight battery, and ultimately patience. I officially hate the damn hydraulic clutch!!

www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com