The dumb engine building questions thread

[Justin]

Am taking the week of christmas off and am hoping to finally get my engine built. Will inevitably have 1000 dumb questions, so I figured I'd start a thread.

Question 1: I'm planning to paint the block. I'm assuming it's best to do this prior to assembly? I was figuring on masking off all the machined surface, then spray bombing.
Question 2: What color? Totally subjective, but having a hard time picking. Am considering the light Ford blue since I'm shooting for a kind of restomod thing, even if it's heavy on the mod. Opinions?
Question 3: I need to buy a better torque wrench than the HF crap I've been using. 1/2" or 3/8" for this job? I can't remember the torque range needed for this project.
Question 4: Any issues with running the factory stamped 1989 351w valve covers? Heads are GT40 and it's getting EFI w/ an Edelbrock intake.

[Viperwolf1]

It's best to paint the block when it's clean and oil free. Usually that only happens when it's bare. You can clean it and paint after assembly but that usually means everything will be the same color.

You will need a 1/2" torque wrench. Minimum 8 ft-lbs, maximum about 150 ft-lbs. Probably better to have another smaller one for the small stuff.

The stamped valve covers could work. You'll have to see what it has for vent ports and oil fill. I assume the PCV valve is in the lower intake so you'll need one vent port in the covers to let fresh air in. Make sure the fill tube doesn't interfere with the intake.

[akaFrankCastle]

Question 1: I'm planning to paint the block. I'm assuming it's best to do this prior to assembly? I was figuring on masking off all the machined surface, then spray bombing.

For a crisp, clean look, I would paint prior to assembly and choose a color scheme rather than going monochromatic.

Question 2: What color? Totally subjective, but having a hard time picking. Am considering the light Ford blue since I'm shooting for a kind of restomod thing, even if it's heavy on the mod. Opinions?

I like the idea of a Ford blue and iron grey mix. OEM would have been a simple one color paint job done after assembly.

Question 3: I need to buy a better torque wrench than the HF crap I've been using. 1/2" or 3/8" for this job? I can't remember the torque range needed for this project.

I asked for one thing and one thing only for Christmas this year; a Snap-On torque wrench. The HF crap was okay when I wasn't working on anything too important. But, I've got two motors, a transmission, and two transfer cases to do this year. And I need to set up two axles.

Question 4: Any issues with running the factory stamped 1989 351w valve covers? Heads are GT40 and it's getting EFI w/ an Edelbrock intake.

Derka derka.

[Jesus_man]

My only experience is with tools and I agree with the advice so far...get a 1/2" drive. I would think you'd only want smaller when you're talking in/lbs. I've been reasonably happy with my Craftsman, but it's no snap-on. I do know you are to turn them down to 0 when you store them so they maintain the correct specs.

[ManTruck]

I suggest to paint at the same step in the build as the others have said, and the one thing I have used in the past, my sons 351W build, was POR products. All good stuff and if done right stays on. The manifold paint is awesome and the cast iron looks new on any cast you paint. Kinda pricy but in the real world not a lot compared to the years and cost you will have in the motor.

[Justin]

Guys, thanks for the info. Zac, plan is to make the block and heads one color, with the EFi intake, front dress and eventually the valve covers contrasting aluminum. May just clearcoat the bare metal if the bracket clean up ok and I can find one that will stick decently. Planning to pick up on of the CDI wrenches from the thread awhile back.

[Unaweep]

Justin - good thread. I too have a engine that may need a rebuild, a new Napa 351W.


So...keep posting.

Erik

[airbur]

Is it finished yet? ;)

[Justin]

No, but it's prettier.

[Justin]

Next question. After painting the block I gave it a bath in wd40 to prevent rust since I wasn't sure how long it would be till I was able to build it. Do it need to wash that off prior to building?

[Eck]

If you're referring to the cylinders and any of the other machined exposed metal, you shouldn't need to clean any of that off. I would just run a lint free cloth with some oil on it through and on all that metal just prior to assembly to make sure you don't have any dust or dirt that has settled in while it was sitting...


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[Justin]

Cool, thanks. Next question: New bolts are wise insurance, correct? I'm planning to buy them, but dang they're proud of them. Also, with a 1989 351w block and GT40 heads running stock rockers do I need to worry about pushrod length or can I just order stock 351w stuff?

[ZOSO]

depending on the milling of the deck and heads you may need special cut push rods.

[Justin]

It wasn't milled much. Took off the top of the date casting numbers. They were pretty flat to start with. What's the best way to determine whether there's an issue?

[Eck]

I would get everything else assembled and then measure to be sure. Phil has a tool that helped on mine. We were able to get some pushrods based on the measurement, same day from On Track.


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[Viperwolf1]

It wasn't milled much. Took off the top of the date casting numbers. They were pretty flat to start with. What's the best way to determine whether there's an issue?

Stock pushrods are probably pretty close. When you go to torque them down you can get a good idea if they will work. Take all the slack out without compressing the lifter then see how many degrees of rotation it takes to get to 18 ft-lbs. You want about 3/4 turn. If it takes less than 1/2 turn they are too long.

[Eck]

I'm pretty sure I have all of my stock pushrods still. You're welcome to them if you want. Only 2000 miles on em!


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[Justin]

Sweet! Thanks! I'll absolutely take you up on that since the ones that came out of the engine were a rusty mess. I can swing by and get them this week if you're around.

Next question: I've been planning to do my ZF5 swap at the same time I do my engine, but will probably hold off to minimize the down time on my rig since summer is coming up and I still need to buy lots of parts. I'll likely throw a clutch in it at the same time. If I remember correctly, the ZF can run the stock clutch and flywheel. Is it easier to do the clutch while the engine is out or when I do the trans? Or does it matter?

[Jesus_man]

The clutch replacement doesn't really matter. If you need a part number, I can see what LUK clutch I bought.

[Eck]

Sweet! Thanks! I'll absolutely take you up on that since the ones that came out of the engine were a rusty mess. I can swing by and get them this week if you're around.

Next question: I've been planning to do my ZF5 swap at the same time I do my engine, but will probably hold off to minimize the down time on my rig since summer is coming up and I still need to buy lots of parts. I'll likely throw a clutch in it at the same time. If I remember correctly, the ZF can run the stock clutch and flywheel. Is it easier to do the clutch while the engine is out or when I do the trans? Or does it matter?

I'm around all week with the exception of Tuesday.

As for the clutch replacement, I think you could do it either time but I think it would be a little easier by doing it before you dropped the new engine in. There are bolts around the entire circumference and the top bolts will be more difficult to access while the engine is installed.

[Gunnibronco]

Make sure you get a diaphragm style clutch, not the kind with only 3 fingers. The ZF hydraulic clutch will only work with the diaphragm clutch, from what I've read.