So if you've been following along on the forum, you're probably noticing that I'm a total amateur trying to lift my bronco. :)
So I replaced the bushings, installed the 2.5 Wild Horses lift... and now I'm noticing that the wheel on the driver's side extends out a noticeable amount compared to the passenger side. Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks
Post-lift issue
- laffycaffi
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Post-lift issue
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- TOOLMAN
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Re: Post-lift issue
After lifting, the stock track bar/mounts will pull the axle to the driver's side. You will need to do a either a adjustable track bar or a track bar lowering/raising bracket or both.
Maybe someone else can explain a bit more geometrically.
Maybe someone else can explain a bit more geometrically.
Wilma - 71 1/2 Wagon; 3 1/2" WH lift, 1" BL, NP435, Chebby disc front, WH twin stick D20, EFI 302, Cool hood scoop, mucho cancer; purchased in 1990.
- Digger
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Re: Post-lift issue
Yes, with a lift the axle will swing to the driver's side. If you have not extended your bump stops, you should leave the track bar alone. It is important that the suspension hits the bumpstops squarely at full compression. Changing track bar length will alter where the bump stops impact the frame.
Ideally you should install a track bar riser on the axle and adjust bump stop height as needed. However a track bar riser or drop bracket will alter steering geometry too, so be prepared to deal with that.
Ideally you should install a track bar riser on the axle and adjust bump stop height as needed. However a track bar riser or drop bracket will alter steering geometry too, so be prepared to deal with that.
Cummins R2.8 diesel, ZF5, AtlasII, HP44/BB9, ARBs, coiled / linked suspension, 37" KO2s, full cage, bumpers, etc.
Build Thread: http://www.coloradoclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5420
Average 23.5 mpg, Best tank: 26.3 mpg
Build Thread: http://www.coloradoclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5420
Average 23.5 mpg, Best tank: 26.3 mpg
- laffycaffi
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Re: Post-lift issue
So I need http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Trac_bar_riser/fabricatorparts
Regarding the altered steering geometry, what's the solution to that? Bring it in for alignment or something more involved?
Shoot, I didn't realize I was signing up for this when I decided to add 2.5 inches.
Regarding the altered steering geometry, what's the solution to that? Bring it in for alignment or something more involved?
Shoot, I didn't realize I was signing up for this when I decided to add 2.5 inches.
Digger wrote:Yes, with a lift the axle will swing to the driver's side. If you have not extended your bump stops, you should leave the track bar alone. It is important that the suspension hits the bumpstops squarely at full compression. Changing track bar length will alter where the bump stops impact the frame.
Ideally you should install a track bar riser on the axle and adjust bump stop height as needed. However a track bar riser or drop bracket will alter steering geometry too, so be prepared to deal with that.
- mickphatmac
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Re: Post-lift issue
Try turning your Bumper right side up... Maybe that will help the geometry!???
Just Kidding, I flunked Geometry and had the same thing happen on my 3.5" lift!!!
Just Kidding, I flunked Geometry and had the same thing happen on my 3.5" lift!!!
1968 3.5" Lift on 31's Front serpentine belt ViperBuilt 4x4x2 PS C4 '66 Speedo '66 Horn Button- STROPPE goodies: Steering Wheel, Roll Bar, Cactus Smasher
SOLD :(1972 Explorer Sport - '66 Eyebrow Grill - '66 Speedometer - Stroppe Steering Wheel - Stroppe RollBar - ViperBuilt C4
SOLD :(1972 Explorer Sport - '66 Eyebrow Grill - '66 Speedometer - Stroppe Steering Wheel - Stroppe RollBar - ViperBuilt C4
- laffycaffi
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Re: Post-lift issue
Digger wrote:Ideally you should install a track bar riser on the axle and adjust bump stop height as needed. However a track bar riser or drop bracket will alter steering geometry too, so be prepared to deal with that.
Also, how urgent is this? For example, do I need to avoid driving until I get this done or can I drive it around. I'd imagine it will be bad for tread, but what are other dangers? It's going to bother me regardless, so I'll tackle this soon enough, but wondering how bad it is to drive as is.
- TOOLMAN
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Re: Post-lift issue
laffycaffi wrote:So I need http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Trac_bar_riser/fabricatorparts
Regarding the altered steering geometry, what's the solution to that? Bring it in for alignment or something more involved?
Shoot, I didn't realize I was signing up for this when I decided to add 2.5 inches.Digger wrote:Yes, with a lift the axle will swing to the driver's side. If you have not extended your bump stops, you should leave the track bar alone. It is important that the suspension hits the bumpstops squarely at full compression. Changing track bar length will alter where the bump stops impact the frame.
Ideally you should install a track bar riser on the axle and adjust bump stop height as needed. However a track bar riser or drop bracket will alter steering geometry too, so be prepared to deal with that.
I think that will work. And I think you can use the stock track bar with that. I would recommend changing the track bar bushings while you have it out. I used a lowering bracket that attaches to the other side on the frame with an adjustable track bar...but that was before they came out with this.\
You should always take your truck in for alignment after your lift is done!
It should be okay to drive as is...I don't think you'll hurt anything (following alignment, of course).
Wilma - 71 1/2 Wagon; 3 1/2" WH lift, 1" BL, NP435, Chebby disc front, WH twin stick D20, EFI 302, Cool hood scoop, mucho cancer; purchased in 1990.
- phyler
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Re: Post-lift issue
laffycaffi wrote:Digger wrote:Ideally you should install a track bar riser on the axle and adjust bump stop height as needed. However a track bar riser or drop bracket will alter steering geometry too, so be prepared to deal with that.
Also, how urgent is this? For example, do I need to avoid driving until I get this done or can I drive it around. I'd imagine it will be bad for tread, but what are other dangers? It's going to bother me regardless, so I'll tackle this soon enough, but wondering how bad it is to drive as is.
Not a big deal. Lot's of folks do the 2.5" lift and then don't do the track bar drop bracket or riser. Get the toe aligned (not super hard to get close in the garage) so you don't wear the tires out too fast. You'll be ok.
1975 Ranger Edition that I've had longer than I've been without it.
OG
OG
- Digger
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Re: Post-lift issue
laffycaffi wrote:So I need http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Trac_bar_riser/fabricatorparts
Regarding the altered steering geometry, what's the solution to that? Bring it in for alignment or something more involved?
Shoot, I didn't realize I was signing up for this when I decided to add 2.5 inches.Digger wrote:Yes, with a lift the axle will swing to the driver's side. If you have not extended your bump stops, you should leave the track bar alone. It is important that the suspension hits the bumpstops squarely at full compression. Changing track bar length will alter where the bump stops impact the frame.
Ideally you should install a track bar riser on the axle and adjust bump stop height as needed. However a track bar riser or drop bracket will alter steering geometry too, so be prepared to deal with that.
It will drive okay the way it is after an alignment, so don't feel like you need to throw a bunch more parts at it. If you decide to correct the track bar geometry, you need to correct the entire suspension, which includes the steering. The easiest way to do this is a drop pitman arm. The main thing is to have the track bar and steering drag link be the same length and same angle to avoid bump steer.
Cummins R2.8 diesel, ZF5, AtlasII, HP44/BB9, ARBs, coiled / linked suspension, 37" KO2s, full cage, bumpers, etc.
Build Thread: http://www.coloradoclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5420
Average 23.5 mpg, Best tank: 26.3 mpg
Build Thread: http://www.coloradoclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5420
Average 23.5 mpg, Best tank: 26.3 mpg