www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

Got my transfer case swapped out. So far it seems to be behaving itself. Also got my door seals installed.

zillacon wrote:Working on my D44 today I took a closer look at some shims that I removed that were behind the spindles. Under closer inspection they are beveled and are use for adjusting camber. Never seen these before.

Those are Cosmos 568 shims. Made by Cosmos International. I have them on my rig for Camber. Work great and in my opinion, a way better solution than the offset sleeves that screw in around the upper ball joint.

My Bronco came with door inserts and no doors. Stupid me sold the Inserts and bought real doors.

I fought the doors all dang weekend - new outside Driver Side handle wouldn't pop the latch. Spent hours and it still does not work. Plus the money for new felt, tracks, handles, window cranks, mirrors, etc. Total PITA. None of the Scott Drake items came with instructions. Got stuck on the latches so nothing else got done - felt, tracks, mirrors, wing windows, door covers, buckets, arm rests, etc. Now I need to order new latches and wait for them to finish the doors.

I do not think I have ever sworn more in my life. A horrible weekend with very little getting done. Most frustrating weekend of my Bronco build.

You may want to pull the button/lever assembly/plunger off your old handles & put them on the new handles. IT seems to be a running theme, the new button assy sucks. I had the same problems w/both new door handles. I put the old button on the new handles & it helped. USE HEAT TO REMOVE THE RETAINER SCREW FROM THE HANDLES, OR IT WILL BREAK THE HEAD OFF. It took me longer to drill & tap the new handle, than the rest of the job did.

I also had to straighten/rebend the latch rods. Make sure the rods "naturally" sit very close to the place they belong on the latch or button. Also make sure they are pushing in the same direction of the latch action. Mine were so out-of-whack, you had to really push/pull them into the holes in the handle & latch, and when the button was pushed the rod was pushing "into" the latch lever, not down with the lever action. Don't know how well that go my point across.

I assume the doors opened ok before & there is no tension on the striker. If the striker is too high, low, or far in, it will put extra tension on the door, making it hard to open (from inside or outside). The door should not ride up or down on the striker as it closes & latches. Of course you want your doors sealed, but you don't want it so tight the latch gets tight. You probably are already adjusted right, I just needed to say that.

Chad

Thanks for the advice Gunni - I am open to trying anything lol.

I ordered new latches and clips so I truely have all new stuff and never have to deal with this again. I will definitely try the old handle plunger if I have any further issues. I never installed the doors so not sure how much adjustment they will take and if they will even work.

Chad,plan on spending some time on your doors.Put the weather strip on first if only temporaraly.Take your time .Lots of adjustment in the hinges to work with.You may need to put shims behind the door post hinges to center it in the opening.This can also move the door up or down in the back of the door.If you decide you want to take your doors off in the future drill a 1/4" hole in each hinge all the way through the door post and backing plates once you get them set and then it's easy to align them over and over using alignment pins.If you need any more advice or help let me know.JGZ
P.S. got lots of door guts

It took a bunch of shims to get mine to close and line up correctly. If you have a body lift or even new mounts, that can affect the alignment also. I'd say, if you plan to take them off, drop on the removable hinges from Drake...they are sweet.

Chad,

First of all remember what it is that I do for a living, installing doors and windows. I have installed literally thousands of them, I understand how to shim here to adjust it there.

When the boys decided to remove the doors a few weeks ago, it took 4 hours for us to get them back and shimed to nearly perfect. The passenger door was a little tight (at least I thought it was a "little" tight), well on Friday Drew slammed that door shut and the glass shattered (fortunatly I am the guy for that as well) so just take your time. Lots and lots of it. And once you get them right, just right. Give them a few weeks of driving to be shure, then go ahead and use that alignment pin.

These doors are more difficult than the doors on the Mustang to get right.

In the meantime, I will be removing the glass form the drivers side and ordering new glass for both doors and vent windows..... <<<<sigh>>>>

Somedays it is chicken, somedays its feathers.

Called Wildhorses today about my brake line issue. Got their answering machine at 5:00PM PST (30 minutes before they close). Wrote $h1++y email to sale department.

akaFrankCastle wrote:Called Wildhorses today about my brake line issue. Got their answering machine at 5:00PM PST (30 minutes before they close). Wrote $h1++y email to sale department.

Well that sux! Sorry may....it's frustrating. I've found that if I can get a retailer to feel sorry for me, I usually end up with really good service, whether that be a refund, replacement, or whatever. Normally, pissed off emails just piss off whom ever is reading it more. I'd suggest giving them a call in the morning, apologizing for the tone of the email, and letting them know your problem....once you get them to feel even the slightest bit bad for you, they'll bend over backward to help out. I hope it works out.

Pushed it outside so I could earn a living. Maybe get more done next weekend. the Bigger tars on da rear sure make it stand better.


My Camera has two lenses one of them is scuffed up a bit

69 Bronco 69 wrote:Pushed it outside so I could earn a living. Maybe get more done next weekend. the Bigger tars on da rear sure make it stand better.


My Camera has two lenses one of them is scuffed up a bit

That's some nice work you've completed! I checked out your photo links and it looks like it's come a long ways. Great job. What are your plans for it?

I get the first 1/2 of your signature...but what does the "If you lift, you lose" part mean?

Finished my sunroof install. Looks great! Now I need to finish up the headliner and get it back in.

Redid the entire brake system on Jonah's. Darn kid has been driving with minimal brakes for over a month. Power Booster was out. Spent a lot of time and money chasing the problem, but it all needed it anyway. Now it stops like a new car!!

Carb rebuild today over lunch. Went fairly smooth with the exception of a snapped off screw.

I added Herculiner in my interior. Not sure I will Carpet now - it is too nice

Entourage wrote:I added Herculiner in my interior. Not sure I will Carpet now - it is too nice

Can that Herculiner phooey. You KNOW we want to see pics of the paint job!

Found a replacement Motorcraft 2100 Choke Pull-off online and replaced the original one. That was the only part that really needed replacing during my carb rebuild and it wasn't in the kit.

Does anyone know what the choke pull-off is actually used for? Looking at the actuator arm, I can't see it actuating in normal usage.

Entourage wrote:I added Herculiner in my interior. Not sure I will Carpet now - it is too nice

Did you roll it or spray it? I have had Herculiner in mine going on 11 years now and it has held up nicely with the spray job. A little thin, but easy to match into if you get a peeling spot. I would recommend putting an extra coat of it under your heel at the gas pedal because I wore through it in about 4 years. I resprayed it with 2 extra coats and it has held up nicely. The other thing to think about is that if you want it to stay that nice gloss black, Herculiner makes a UV protection that I would use. I sprayed my sister's Jeep with both the liner & the UV and hers has held up great in the Hawaiian sun for a little over 5 years now.

akaFrankCastle wrote:Called Wildhorses today about my brake line issue. Got their answering machine at 5:00PM PST (30 minutes before they close). Wrote $h1++y email to sale department.

Turns out I was wrong. What I thought I heard as a 5:30PM PST closing time on the sales department voice mail was actually 5:00PM PST.

Called WH today to sort out the issue and spoke with Jim Creel. 10 minutes later we had the mix up sorted out. Parts ship today (they offered to expedite if I needed them sooner than the standard 3 day). WH is picking up the tab on shipping my stuff back and shipping the new stuff out.

I rolled mine on and it could not have been easier. I am surprised how thick the material is but still brushed and rolled with ease. No high and low spots - very uniform texture and coverage. I chose this product over the professional applied (RhinoLiner, etc.) mainly to price, reviews, ease, glossy finish, rubbery, DIY, etc. It was still wet/tacky this morning so it will take more time to dry that the instructions stated. I wish it was less textured but that is the very reason it wears so well - so I guess I can't have it both ways :).

Thanks for the advise on the UV protectant - I will order some.

Yeah, rolling it goes on a little thicker, but rougher. When I sprayed mine, I had to thin it down to a 75/25 mix with Xylene so it would go through the gun. Spraying it, it is about half the texture roughness than rolling it. Still nice stuff. I went with it for your reasons too.

airbur wrote:

69 Bronco 69 wrote:Pushed it outside so I could earn a living. Maybe get more done next weekend. the Bigger tars on da rear sure make it stand better.


My Camera has two lenses one of them is scuffed up a bit

That's some nice work you've completed! I checked out your photo links and it looks like it's come a long ways. Great job. What are your plans for it?

I get the first 1/2 of your signature...but what does the "If you lift, you lose" part mean?

Thanks, I want to make it my daily driver. As soon as my brakes and driveline are working I will make sure all of the bugs are worked out and im off. I also plan to use it as a trail rig. I really wanted one that was more or less original so I may end up selling this one and buying an original, but thats hard to say now. As im really starting to enjoy the appeal it has to me. "If you lift you lose" is about drag racing. I have been doing that for a long time, but not as long as many others.

Entourage wrote:I added Herculiner in my interior. Not sure I will Carpet now - it is too nice

I used some of this on my 64 F100 floor boards it sure cleans up the inside, Looks great!

Custom tinted vent windows....nice!! Your boys are lucky:) I still need to get in there and replace the roller bushings for the door windows....I'm hoping that won't take quite as long as your windows removal though!

hockeydad4-22 wrote:Pulled the glass from the doors last night - both window and vents, will be sending them in as paterns for new glass, tinted! Yea!!!

I can tell you this, removing the stinking things was a lot tougher than I expected. Took me 2 hrs to get them all out. And I can tell you this too, it will take me about half that to get them all back in.

I should have the new glass by mid week.

I want to go with tinted glass in mine too.

Rox Crusher wrote:

hockeydad4-22 wrote:Pulled the glass from the doors last night - both window and vents, will be sending them in as paterns for new glass, tinted! Yea!!!

I can tell you this, removing the stinking things was a lot tougher than I expected. Took me 2 hrs to get them all out. And I can tell you this too, it will take me about half that to get them all back in.

I should have the new glass by mid week.

I want to go with tinted glass in mine too.

I will keep the paterns for future bronco brother orders. Not all that expensive and if I have the paterns, it would be muc heasier just to blow the old ones up and clean up the mess.... besides it is kind of fun if you dont do it all the time.

We had to jump on the door glass, 14 yr old slammed the door and broke the passenger side, it was loose andshatterd all over the driveway. SO now she sits outside with no glass.... hehe

Spent a quality afternoon with the Bronco.

Replaced the heater hoses and routed them away from rub points.
Replaced needles, jets and installed offroad seats in the E Brock carb.
Adjusted floats on carb.
Loose cable on the starter solenoid, lead to snapped off pos side stud.
Replaced solenoid, replaced pos battery cable. put new connectors on the wires attaching to the solenoid.
Replaced cracked ballast resistor.
Re routed the spark plug wires.
Drilled holes for and put on batter hold down clamp.
Replaced 3 speed shifter bushings.
Changed oil and filter.

Have some tuning on the carb to do tomorrow.


Brett

Pulled the hard top(pretty hard by yourself with no hoist!) and mostly installed some upper quarter panel armor. Need a few more bolts and some paint and they will be ready!