akaFrankCastle wrote:Why not use a stock looking dash mount OD switch? Mod something up similar to the hazard light through and build the OD in behind it. If you like the stock look.
Are you clairvoyant ?
I pm'd COBLU and he said he was probably going to go back to Stock shifter with a button on the dash as he likes the stock look.
I'm a big fan of stock look with late model capabilities. If you are interested, I found a write up on how to mod your stock AM radio to take an MP3 device.
Stroppe'd 1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.
The Terrible One 1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.
- ECT sensor that goes in the end of the heater tube. I am thinking I can plug the existing hole and tap the fitting on the top of the tube to accept the sensor.
- water temp gauge which is installed in intake manifold by the TFI module. Maybe I get lucky and just re-clock the distributor so the TFI doesn't hit it ? Or, I may have to take the manifold off and drill / tap the boss where this sensor used to go when used in Mustang applications ?
any other ideas on how best to handle ?
TFI distributor top view.jpg
heater tube with water temp sensor.jpg
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Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State.
"I truly believe that good will outweigh evil, but there won't be peace on earth until the power of love overcomes the love of power" - Jimi Hendrix
Entourage wrote:Hey! It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State.
Nice "Fletch" Quote! I love that movie.
You will not see me cry because I do not sing the blues
akaFrankCastle wrote:I'm a big fan of stock look with late model capabilities. If you are interested, I found a write up on how to mod your stock AM radio to take an MP3 device.
Stroppe'd 1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.
The Terrible One 1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.
airbur wrote:Man, that is looking sh!t hot! Nice work on the fuel lines! Very impressed. Which lines did you end up going with?
Originally I ordered fuel lines from BC Broncos but they "misunderstood" what I asked for and sent me lines for the top of the frame that unfortunately had multiple connection points (futur leaks). Since I am not going to put on any body lift this was unnaceptable to me.
So, I went on down to Autozone and found some 6' pre-flared lengths and we bent them up.
Another example of being careful to not throw the baby out with the bath water...............
I ordered ceramic headers from BC Broncos the week before last and was told they wouldn't be ready until next week.
I called today just to see if by chance they came in early. Chuck answered the phone and I ask him to see if he could get his supplier to airfreight me a set if they were available.
He called back to say that they were still another 3 weeks from being finished.
He then offered to take a set off of a customer project that still had two more months until completion and send them to me.
Big thanks to Kirk, Phil, Mike, and Shawn for coming over to help today and a hearty thanks to Matt (Lila76) for loaning a stranger (me) his car dollies.
Here is a pic of Mike single handedly (never mind the hand on the left) lowering the body down onto the chassis.
dropping on chassis.jpg
Here it is after we were done fooling around getting it all lined up.
burn rubber.jpg
Gettin closer by the day !
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Rox that is looking good. I like how your fuel lines are run.
Bob - Turning hydrocarbons into noise since 1970
Spiritual owner of the now Zoso mobile (1974 Bronco Ranger - EFI 351W-4R70W-ARB front and rear-STC softtop- High Country hood-3 1/2" WH lift- Cross inboard rear shock mnt- Duffs bumpers- Warn 8274- 33's- Cheby disc conversion)
airbur wrote:How did the install of that tranny crossmember go? Is that the one from WCB?
Yes, it is the WCB crossmember.
It isn't installed yet though. We currently have the transfer case resting on a jack stand.
Sometime this week I will find where it needs to be considering driveline angles, firewall and floor pan to transmission clearance, and fan to radiator clearance.
Then we will see if we can use the bracket adapters they provided or make some out of angle iron which may just be easier.
is there some reason you bent those lines around the body mount area? i assume your not doing a body lift.. but it should still clear correct? iam running lines right now and just want o make sure I clear everything on top of the frame.
Rox - would have to see both to decide, as I am not good with visualizing that stuff. But my initial thought is, everyone has a "white" top. Your looks unique.
1973 Bronco, 351 SEFI, Locked, discs, 35's ZF-5spd and Atlas 4spd. 235:1 Crawl Ratio. It may be ugly, but it's slow. http://www.ucora.org
I bought a really nice hard top with slider windows, fresh paint (white), and drip rail trim.
The white matches my stripes suprisingly well but little Madison wants me to keep the current color scheme.
Should I put the new top on and hope she gets used to it or transfer the smoked sliders and the matching rear glass to the current top ?
IMHO - Your little one is a smart cookie and I agree with her BUT I would recommend that if you stay with the current scheme, I would repaint the new top to match the current top.
I bought a really nice hard top with slider windows, fresh paint (white), and drip rail trim.
The white matches my stripes suprisingly well but little Madison wants me to keep the current color scheme.
Should I put the new top on and hope she gets used to it or transfer the smoked sliders and the matching rear glass to the current top ?
IMHO - Your little one is a smart cookie and I agree with her BUT I would recommend that if you stay with the current scheme, I would repaint the new top to match the current top.
winner, winner, chicken dinner
I just did some impromptu swapping with Plumbdoctor so looks like I will have a white top on it for a while and then paint it to match when I re-do the body in a couple of years.
Rox - does your old top still need a couple of those rod keepers so the latch works more easily? Just asking since I pulled some items out of storage and have some lift gate parts if you (or Plumbdocter actually) need them.