www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

My 351w is pretty well assembled thanks to Viper !

A couple more hours for lifters, push rods, and rockers and then intake and accessories.

Thanks so much Phil !

The temporary solution to getting on the road is to forego the body lift in favor of a raised hood. I've never been a fan but this one looks pretty darn good !

Let's get this thing on the road today !

Go Jeff go!

that hood is nice.

Ah nice hood where did you get it? [emoji3]

Looks nice.

Well finally got the new exhuast installed.

What an absolute pain in the ass trying to get all the clamps tight enough where the pieces would stop slipping. Going to test them again tomorrow to see if they need welded.

Next time I will just go to an exhaust shop and pay the extra 200 bones and be done with it.

Rox Crusher wrote:Well finally got the new exhuast installed.

What an absolute pain in the ass trying to get all the clamps tight enough where the pieces would stop slipping. Going to test them again tomorrow to see if they need welded.

Next time I will just go to an exhaust shop and pay the extra 200 bones and be done with it.

You put in the BH one? That thing fought me the whole way too.

screw those clamps.. weld that sucka

Little too late, but hitting the snot out of it with an impact is advisable. I think there are some advantages to making it removable as well so not welding it might pay off down the road.

Yes, it is the BH kit.

Nice quality etc but just very hard to get the pieces to stay where you want them as you tighten it up.

The tube on passenger side, right past the header, touches the floor board / foot well and I couldn't get it to move. So this whole thing may be coming out if that creates a problem.

Eck wrote:Little too late, but hitting the snot out of it with an impact is advisable. I think there are some advantages to making it removable as well so not welding it might pay off down the road.

Better to be able to replace one damaged part than need to replace the whole thing.

Take a look at Walker Mega Clamps.

I think the supplied clamps are pyro brand, they look stout, and for sure withstand monster torque (which way to the beach?).

I believe the problem is that the female ends are expanded a bit more than necessary so they don't get a good enough friction fit along the entire mating surface even when fully inserted. Essentially, some of the connections are only contacting each other directly underneath the clamp.

I need to add a CAT to mine so I am probably going to bring it to an exhaust shop and have them do that as well as see if they can make some of the needed adjustments.

my freakin arms hurt

My luck isn't the best lately........

Started up nicely and seems to run well but the valve train is noisiest I've ever heard. Drivers side noticeably louder than passenger. I'm thinking bent or worn pushrods.

http://youtu.be/TNev7_R7mdo

What do you suspect ?

Rox Crusher wrote:My luck isn't the best lately........

Started up nicely and seems to run well but the valve train is noisiest I've ever heard. Drivers side noticeably louder than passenger. I'm thinking bent or worn pushrods.

http://youtu.be/

What do you suspect ?

i suspect the link to YouTube is incorrect

Fixed (the link)

Have you checked your header bolts? My 76 ticked bad on one side - i had blown out my exhaust gaskets.... maybe check those if you haven't already?

I guess I could be wrong, but the sound seems to be coming from the valve train. Sounds like coming through valve covers.

Doesn't sound lower from around headers. Unless the gaskets didn't seal to begin with I only ran it another 20 seconds in addition to what you see in the video. Don't think you could blow the gaskets out that quickly ?

I don't know. I'm not an expert. Post up on CB.com? Mine did it from the start but replaced gaskets about 50 miles later I guess and stopped the ticking.

Another idea and an easy one to check. Rockers hitting valve covers?

landshark wrote: Rockers hitting valve covers?

That sounds worth checking into.

You using the BH headers right? Did they give you the header gasket? Apparently it's specific to their headers if they didn't.

Pull the valve covers. Make sure the rollers are rolling in about the center of the valve stem. With the amount of milling to the heads the pushrods may be too long. Make sure the pushrods aren't hitting anything like the holes in the head. Then retorque the rockers.

Eck wrote:You using the BH headers right? Did they give you the header gasket? Apparently it's specific to their headers if they didn't.

Yes, using their headers and the gaskets they use.

Interesting fact that the instructions say no gaskets are necessary.

Rox Crusher wrote:

Eck wrote:You using the BH headers right? Did they give you the header gasket? Apparently it's specific to their headers if they didn't.

Yes, using their headers and the gaskets they use.

Interesting fact that the instructions say no gaskets are necessary.

I thought the same thing.

Did you use gt40 heads or go with after market heads? You guys know more than me but if your using heads with guild plates then you need hardened pushrods. Like Phil said maybe you need to get resized rods.

On a side note it looks really good.

I'm using GT40P heads. Had them milled down to achieve 9.4 compression ratio. Using after market springs and roller rockers.

I was thinking the pushrods were short / loose (bent or worn) but I think Phil is on to something that they are too tight / long.

I'm going to call Scott at MPG today and see if he knows how much he milled off the heads.

I'll pull the valve covers this morning for a look see.

Pull the valve covers and inspect the inside. I had a similar issue with my 460 and the roller rockers were hitting the valve covers. As also said make sure you are using guide plates and hardened push rods. Pull a rocker arm off and mark the top of the valve stem. reinstall rocker and hand crank the motor over a few times. Pull rocker and check and see if the line is in the center of the valve tip. Roller rockers are noisy compared to regular rockers. You may also just set the lash again on the rockers and see if it goes away. Roller rockers may require a lash setting a time or 2.

He has pedestal rockers so no need for guide plates.

My valve-train is way louder than Phil's, which I thought was slightly louder than normal for roller rockers.

I removed the driver's side valve cover as that was the noisiest side. No indication of the rockers hitting the valve covers which isn't surprising as I am using same valve cover, gasket, and rockers as Phil.

The rockers appear to be well-centered on the valve stems and the rollers are oriented correctly.

I'm using the original pushrods that were in this block so unknown if they had any problems but we cleaned them up and they all looked fine. Didn't measure them or anything though. They don't appear to have been rubbing / hitting the hole in the head.

Some of them are loose enough where they can be freely rotated, but can't move up or down.

Some are so loose they can be moved up and down, quite sloppy.

Also, I spoke to Scott and he said he didn't mill enough off the heads that the hydraulic lifters wouldn't compensate for the difference.

I don't have enough knowledge or experience to know what is normal or acceptable so the feedback is much appreciated.

Rox Crusher wrote:My valve-train is way louder than Phil's, which I thought was slightly louder than normal for roller rockers.

I removed the driver's side valve cover as that was the noisiest side. No indication of the rockers hitting the valve covers which isn't surprising as I am using same valve cover, gasket, and rockers as Phil.

The rockers appear to be well-centered on the valve stems and the rollers are oriented correctly.

I'm using the original pushrods that were in this block so unknown if they had any problems but we cleaned them up and they all looked fine. Didn't measure them or anything though. They don't appear to have been rubbing / hitting the hole in the head.

Some of them are loose enough where they can be freely rotated, but can't move up or down.

Some are so loose they can be moved up and down, quite sloppy.

Also, I spoke to Scott and he said he didn't mill enough off the heads that the hydraulic lifters wouldn't compensate for the difference.

I don't have enough knowledge or experience to know what is normal or acceptable so the feedback is much appreciated.

There should be no slop up and down on them ever. Even if the lifters have bled down there should be some spring pressure on them to keep them from being that loose. Either you have some bad lifters or the wrong length pushrods.