www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

Nice!

Nice!

It will be much easier to plumb that master cylinder with that out of the way! LOL.

You know, while you're in there.... Bronco creep at its finest!

Trying to figure out the installation of this BCB flexible hydraulic line in my slave cylinder. Here is what I'm working with. Anybody have any suggestions/ideas/thoughts? I tried just pressing it in, and it wasn't moving at all.

Are the line and the slave part of the same kit? The collar goes on the line, with the O ring towards the slave, then it is a press in deal.

Edit: Right off the end of that line doesn't look like the correct size from your picture.

This video has some good pointers

http://youtu.be/RVjEMoroZQM

kinder wrote:Are the line and the slave part of the same kit? The collar goes on the line, with the O ring towards the slave, then it is a press in deal.

Edit: Right off the end of that line doesn't look like the correct size from your picture.

I bought the Slave from O'reilly I think. The hose is from BCB-- they say they use a stock slave and this is a picture of theirs. It does look like it is different but seems ridiculous that the aftermarket ones would not have the same connections as the stock?

I'm in the same boat it looks like. I just pulled my store bought slave cylinder out of the box & my BCB hose and they don't look compatible. WTF.

Gunnibronco wrote:I'm in the same boat it looks like. I just pulled my store bought slave cylinder out of the box & my BCB hose and they don't look compatible. WTF.

BCB at it again. I spoke with the guy on the phone when I ordered and ordered JUST the hose and the push rod and he never even mentioned it. I have to think that if I would have bought something like this through WH, there would have been a compatibility conversation. I am going to see if they source their "stock" slaves from a national parts store-- if I have to buy theirs, I will certainly be demanding free shipping.

I just looked at every slave cylinder Rock Auto offers for a 94 F250 5.8l, and they all have the same fittings as our slave cylinders. I don't see how the BCB hose would fit. Unless BCB is using a slave cylinder from a different application. I'd as what the application is, and buy it elsewhere.

Their hose for aftermarket master cylinder, has a different slave cylinder end on it.

So I think I solved our problem Chad. The quick connect fitting has a roll pin holding it in. I tapped that out and found that it has the same internal fitting. Replaced it with the hose, reinstalled roll pin and fits like a glove. The only downside is that you don't have access to the hose unless you drop the tranny - but there isn't anything you can do about that if using the braided hose.

Also- the other option BCB sells is for an aftermarket master cylinder with AN fittings - not aftermarket slave assembly.

Great, glad you figured that out. Thanks.

I saw the other hose had a threaded end for an aftermarket M/C, I just thought the other end looked different too.

Progress was made today! Was able to get the ZF5 and Dana 20 installed. Had a few fitment issues with the JB Fab twin stick brackets. If I kept the D20 clocked in the stock position, it looks like it probably would have worked but I tucked it up a little bit and it changed the angles of the brackets. I had to do a little grinding and notching to get them to work. Big thanks to BroncoRaider for lending me some muscle-- I think I found a few chunks of headflesh on various underparts of my Bronco. Thanks for your help Tim!

A good look at my customer Harbor Freight crossmember! Design and fab of the cross member is next on my to do list.

The other thing with the twin stick shifters is that one sticks way into my gas pedal leg and the other gets caught on the tunnel cover. It appears that there will be some bending required. Anyone done this and have any tips/tricks/ or pictures?


Lastly-- might be a dumb question, but what is the other line on the slave assembly for? I can't seem to find that anywhere... (the top line in the picture that doesn't have the braided hose attached to it).

The top line is the bleeder to bleed the air out once it's all plumbed and installed. Just like replacing a brake caliper.

crawlercreations wrote:The top line is the bleeder to bleed the air out once it's all plumbed and installed. Just like replacing a brake caliper.

I suspected it was either that or some sort of return line. Thanks. Does something hook into that to bleed it?

You can put a hose on the end to direct the fluid but it has a nipple on it just like a brake caliper. Usually I'll open that up and let the system gravity bleed for a while then I'll get help from someone by having them press the clutch pedal and hold it down while I open the bleeder. Literally just like replacing a brake caliper only with the clutch instead. Look up youtube videos if you want to make it easier than my explanation.

crawlercreations wrote:You can put a hose on the end to direct the fluid but it has a nipple on it just like a brake caliper. Usually I'll open that up and let the system gravity bleed for a while then I'll get help from someone by having them press the clutch pedal and hold it down while I open the bleeder. Literally just like replacing a brake caliper only with the clutch instead. Look up youtube videos if you want to make it easier than my explanation.

No that makes sense- I just didn't notice that the nipple screwed off...

To bend the sticks you can use a propane torch to heat it up. When it starts to discolor/glow slowly bend it. I put it in a vice with some tags to keep it from getting chewed up. Go slow. And just enough heat to bed. There's some YouTube video out there about it.

Might also want to pick Zoso's brain to see how he bent his twin sticks?

Posted in his Page 2....ZOSO's toys...

I bent my twin sticks to clear my np435 shifter. Just heated till red with an oxy-acetylene torch, then bent to the desired angle. We can use mine if you want.

Bleeding the ZF slave seems a bit harder than most others. I've had trouble as well as several others I have spoken to. I ended up having to bleed it manually with a crow-bar thru the access panel! This was after many attempts with someone depressing the clutch using the pedal. So put that in the back of your mind.

Before you pull your twin sticks, you might want to draw out some sort of pattern you think would work (cardboard or something). That will give you a template to follow.

Quench the rod with water after each bend as it stays hot a long time!

Justin wrote:I bent my twin sticks to clear my np435 shifter. Just heated till red with an oxy-acetylene torch, then bent to the desired angle. We can use mine if you want.

This is what I did.

Twin sticks are bent and installed:



The ZF shifter in the picture is in neutral. The dash prevents it from going into 1,3,5th gear. Will need to fab a bracket to move it over and back a little.

Post #22 on this page has a pretty easy looking bracket. I'm hoping I can get away with something like it.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... 977&page=2

Gunnibronco wrote:Post #22 on this page has a pretty easy looking bracket. I'm hoping I can get away with something like it.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... 977&page=2

I had seen that and plan to attempt the same thing...

Thanks for doing the search for me!!

Bends look good Eck!

You could always notch your dash [emoji3]

I think I'd like to try to straighten out my ZF shifter! Jealous of you guys with straight ones!! I like that idea of a small piece of plate! If you had to, you could even make the holes on a slight angle so lean the shifter out a little more.

So I chose to ignore Chris's helpful suggestion of notching my dash.

I did fab and install the bracket. I also shimmed the top bolt quite a bit to move the angle of the shifter out away from my leg. I think it is in a perfect spot now and clears both the dash as well as the twin sticks.

This is in 2nd gear:


This is in 1st gear:


The bracket:

The bracket with the many shims:


And the master cylinder installed with the braided line: