www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

ZOSO wrote:Hmm it seems that each time I drive the bronco something goes wrong. Each trip the trans leaks more and more. It's almost worse than what the old one was. Then friday on my way home it started to grind and make noise. one of 2 things. spud shaft to t case or the trans. Being pissed off already I just drove it. The noise cleared up within 1/2 mile and all was peachy. Now to tear it apart and see what the issues are.

This is the definition of "you know what sux"

Damn it

x2. That completely sux.

Rox Crusher wrote:

ZOSO wrote:Hmm it seems that each time I drive the bronco something goes wrong. Each trip the trans leaks more and more. It's almost worse than what the old one was. Then friday on my way home it started to grind and make noise. one of 2 things. spud shaft to t case or the trans. Being pissed off already I just drove it. The noise cleared up within 1/2 mile and all was peachy. Now to tear it apart and see what the issues are.

This is the definition of "you know what sux"

Damn it

Yep. I'm gonna drain the fluids out of each and see. Pull the pan on the trans and look at the magnet Phil put in there. The noise was very weird. Kinda a whirling sound. I know it's trans/tcase as when I sped up or slowed down it changed speed. As i was driving with the trans still in gear I popped the t case in neutral and revved the engine and the noise was still there even when I came to a stop. Trans in gear t case in neutral still made noise. Then I got out to check fluid level and it was good. Then once I got back in and started driving the noise cleared up so

ZOSO wrote:

Rox Crusher wrote:

ZOSO wrote:Hmm it seems that each time I drive the bronco something goes wrong. Each trip the trans leaks more and more. It's almost worse than what the old one was. Then friday on my way home it started to grind and make noise. one of 2 things. spud shaft to t case or the trans. Being pissed off already I just drove it. The noise cleared up within 1/2 mile and all was peachy. Now to tear it apart and see what the issues are.

This is the definition of "you know what sux"

Damn it

Yep. I'm gonna drain the fluids out of each and see. Pull the pan on the trans and look at the magnet Phil put in there. The noise was very weird. Kinda a whirling sound. I know it's trans/tcase as when I sped up or slowed down it changed speed. As i was driving with the trans still in gear I popped the t case in neutral and revved the engine and the noise was still there even when I came to a stop. Trans in gear t case in neutral still made noise. Then I got out to check fluid level and it was good. Then once I got back in and started driving the noise cleared up so

Ok so I pulled the trans pan. It's clean. Very minimal material on the magnet. Now waiting for a new pan gasket. So that's good news.

Bad news is I drained the tcase. Lot's of metal shavings on the magnet and in the oil(more than I think there should be). So Im sure the noise I heard was the input/spud shaft bearing/s. So what to do now?

Drop the t case, look for bearing play.

What sucks is when you offer to sell some parts to someone (on CB- not here), they don't respond for a couple days so I move on to the next interested party, and then I get nasty messages for not giving them another message letting them know I have other interested buyers.

$40 worth of parts certainly aren't worth the ill words received. Was simply trying to help another member who needed a couple parts (there were a few that needed them I guess).

Sorry- just pissed off and needed to . It's to me that as many giving and willing people we have here in CCB- there are some real "winners" out there nationally.

Happy Holidays!

kinder wrote:Drop the t case, look for bearing play.

Yea not lookin forward to that. Do you think I could have screwed up by using grease instead of vasoline to hold the bearings in place? Also ran 80/90 gear oil in it.

ZOSO wrote:

kinder wrote:Drop the t case, look for bearing play.

Yea not lookin forward to that. Do you think I could have screwed up by using grease instead of vasoline to hold the bearings in place? Also ran 80/90 gear oil in it.

I don't think so, my money is on a bearing coming apart. Made noise, noise stopped, metal in fluid.

Having the entire week off with hopes of finishing the disc brake swap I started in October and having the temperature plummet and waking up with the flu this morning. All I need to get done is bleeding the brakes and then start measuring things for the 1-ton TRO upgrade.

ZOSO wrote:

kinder wrote:Drop the t case, look for bearing play.

Yea not lookin forward to that. Do you think I could have screwed up by using grease instead of vasoline to hold the bearings in place? Also ran 80/90 gear oil in it.

I don't think so either.

I've never seen that input bearing destroy itself. There should be a big snap ring holding the outside of that bearing to the bearing retainer cone. The inside is held by the input gear and small snap ring. The other bearings would affect the front or rear output shaft play. Those would be easy to tell without pulling it apart.

I'll just pull the case thursday and see what it looks like. I did have both snap rings in it. I didnt have any left over parts so I'd assume I did it right.

So I pulled the t case today. Im not sure what the issue is/was. the rear output is within spec as is the front output. The spud shaft is good too. Pulled the 13 roller bearings out. Cleaned them all and inspected them. All look new(they better with only 300 miles on it). Only thing I did notice is there was no oil in there. Only the grease I used to assemble it. Figured I used too much grease to home them in place cause the "oil holes" in the rear output shaft were nearly plugged with grease.

ZOSO wrote:the "oil holes" in the rear output shaft were nearly plugged with grease.

76FB has had problems with that too.

Straight gassed my brand new Stihl on my first day using it.

akaFrankCastle wrote:Straight gassed my brand new Stihl on my first day using it.

Ouch!! Damage? Seized?

Not seized but definitely hurting for compression. My own fault. Had a can of 50:1 just for saw use. Apparently never added the mix after I filled it last. Didn't even think to check. 200 bucks for a new cylinder and piston.

Sounds like it's under warranty. ;-)

Unfortunately the signs of a straight gassed 2 stroke are pretty obvious. I'd wind up with a saw that was torn down and left for dead. So I'm just going to do the rebuild myself and save the headache of dealing with dealerships.

ZOSO wrote:So I pulled the t case today. Im not sure what the issue is/was. the rear output is within spec as is the front output. The spud shaft is good too. Pulled the 13 roller bearings out. Cleaned them all and inspected them. All look new(they better with only 300 miles on it). Only thing I did notice is there was no oil in there. Only the grease I used to assemble it. Figured I used too much grease to home them in place cause the "oil holes" in the rear output shaft were nearly plugged with grease.

I think I found part of my issues with the tcase. I dont believe these thrust bushings are supposed to rotate. Im certain they didnt when I assembled the case. The tabs were installed where they should be. The idler gear was not tight when built so it shouldnt have been in a bind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwTHhgA ... k1NVj6O7Cw

Hmm... I think they do rotate freely, oh viper..

That looks normal. The tabs are shorter than the slots.

So Im at a loss if thats the way it should be. Guess I'll just some new gaskets back in it and stick it in and run it.

Being a mouse in my house sucks. We had indications of a problem shortly after buying the place when we found a nest in the garage. A few months ago, with winter setting in, I started hearing them in the ceiling scuttling about over the drywall. Out came the reciprocator and an access panel was cut in a lower soffit. In went the glue traps.

If you hate mice and despise the havoc they wreak, I recommend glue over snap traps. With glue you get the satisfaction of listening to the little SOBs flip around for 30 minutes trying to tear themselves off of it. I like to alternate glue traps and bait. It's a bait rotation now. And right now I've got the TV off and am listening to a mouse buffet going on above me.

Not a good day to be a mouse in this house.

This will bring you joy: Most mouse/rat poisons are an anti-coagulant like coumadin/warfarin, which is also used in people to prevent blood clots. They basically bleed out from the inside.

I deal with a lot of mice at work. Will never bait them again. When they run off and die somewhere that you cant find but can smell is not a good thing. I'd rather kill them in a snap trap. In one of my building at works we caught 29 mice in 2 days.

At my in-laws house one evening when my FIL was on a mouse rampage. We set 8 snap traps in the garage, baited with peanut butter. We would turn out the light and before you crossed the kitchen you could hear 3-5 of them go off. Turn around, dispose of now crushed and terminated rodent and re-set. Turn off light and repeat...

Went on for at least an 90 minutes. Total of 47 mice before I left for the evening....

I told him to get a large plastic trash can for the dog food. Leaving bags of food around the garage was causing the issue. That and living next door to a new golf & housing development with all the new earth work going on. Mice invaded every home nearby.

What sux is when I decided to change the transfer case oil and removed drain plug and the hole is plugged by metal shavings this sux bad

T shift or J?

akaFrankCastle wrote:T shift or J?

It is a T shift

Was thinking I had an assembled case on the shelf. No such luck.