www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

My first attempt to mount beadlocks.

First try ended up with an off center tire, and a beadlock ring that was much tighter on 1/2 the wheel than the other half.

The second try I paid more attention to the ring/wheel gap than torque. I kept the gap more even, and the tire stayed centered. Unfortunately, I still have a gap between the ring & the wheel at the recommended 18 foot/lbs. I think I need an anticoning spacer between the wheel and beadlock ring. I've reached out to the manufacturer to get their recommendation.

One thing that helped me was resting the back side of the wheel on a 5-gal bucket. I never had any centering issues, but I know every wheel manf is different.

Jesus_man wrote:One thing that helped me was resting the back side of the wheel on a 5-gal bucket. I never had any centering issues, but I know every wheel manf is different.

It doesn't really show in the pic, but that's what I did with the bucket.

I guess aluminum wheels have centering guides machined in, but steel wheels don't. I think the way I torqued it down pushed the wheel off center. I blindly followed the torque wrench and didn't watch the gap. Second time I watched the gap and only used a torque wrench at the end. That worked out fine. I'm picking up spacer rings from the wheel manufacturer today.

It seems some people run with a gap between the ring & wheel. But that does stress and break the bolts more over time. Many people (and the wheel manufacturer) recommend no gap. The spacers are only $15/wheel. If that saves the bolts, they will pay for themselves.

Ordered the fronts in March...Christmas in September!!

Looks like the ΓÇÿ68 has had some work done on the guts of the rear end!
I took the pinion gear apart from the housing and pressed in new pinion bearings and then on the third member I replaced the pinion Pilot Bearing.

The pilot bearing was where I was having all of my trouble, thatΓÇÖs where all my slop was. I only had about six of the nine bearings left in it and my outer bearing wasnΓÇÖt even pressed onto the pinion gear at all!!!

Wasn't done to my Bronco but helped Eck get ready for the show and shine next weekend. [emoji1787]

Huge thanks to Steve (Strike2) for the education on a cut and buff today!

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Installed a bigger engine.

Justin wrote:Installed a bigger engine.

I can't wait to do those on mine! Very nice!

Getting ready for the Coyote swap. Pulled the engine today.

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Been driving it for a few days trying out the rear 4 link. So far its pretty good. I think all it needs is a good set of proper valved shocks.

I just finished rebuilding / resealing my heater box, replaced the heater core, and replaced the OEM motor with a motor from mid 90s Ford truck.

This motor allows you to re-use existing squirrel cage and you don't have to enlarge the hole in the box if you use the commonly recommended Chevy motor / fan for the upgrade. I did have to trim part of the motor mounting flange but that was very easy.

I also removed all the heater control cables and lube them up so those are working nicely again.

The new motor puts out a lot more air which will improve the defrost function on those wintery drives to BV.

The motor is louder but not anywhere annoying or obnoxious.

New H4 head lights with new adjusters
new LED dash lights ( jury's still out )
new tail light lens and gaskets

Report card on the AX-15 trans. The more I drive it the less "truck like shifting".
Towed the Cardinal camper around and it is nice to have the extra gear.

Well it was a pilot bearing. I started having noise and bad throw out bearing feel in the clutch peddle. Got real bad coming home from Rosters breakfast. This is what I found when the trans was pulled. The new AX-15. The throw out bearing felt good but replaced it anyway. The pilot on the trans had some gaulding on it. Some time with moldmaker stones, 600 grit paper and oil fixed it up. The clutch and disk are in good shape so reused them.
So to be short I installed new pilot bushing, throw out bearing and changed the oils in trans and tranfercase

BOBS 2 68S wrote:Well it was a pilot bearing. I started having noise and bad throw out bearing feel in the clutch peddle. Got real bad coming home from Rosters breakfast. This is what I found when the trans was pulled. The new AX-15. The throw out bearing felt good but replaced it anyway. The pilot on the trans had some gaulding on it. Some time with moldmaker stones, 600 grit paper and oil fixed it up. The clutch and disk are in good shape so reused them.
So to be short I installed new pilot bushing, throw out bearing and changed the oils in trans and tranfercase

I had that happen on my mustang once. the big culprit is when the trans is installed the clutch disk wasnt aligned perfect when installed with alignment tool.

Junked it SCRAP PILE Pissed me off one to many times

347bronco wrote:Junked it SCRAP PILE Pissed me off one to many times

What happened?

After Super Cell, I checked out Red and found the rear drive shaft splines had warn out. Changed it out (good to have parts broncos around). A week later after hunting leaving Colorado Springs started to hear and feel things. When I got it home found the rear diff had given up. Ring and pinion and bearings were shot. The rear leaf springs had also warn out. So I rebuilt the rear diff, replaced the springs, new brakes, axle seals and stainless brake lines and a new hood latch (it would not release ).

Replaced both rear axle bearings and seals, brake light switch and right side door handle. Hunting was hard on the Bronco this year.