www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

Thanks guys! I have no idea if it'll run, but it'll be pretty.

Opened up my cam this morning to discover this little card with all the cam info on it. Looks like there may not be a single grind for the CR266 part number, as these are different than the numbers I found online. Thoughts on the specs? Was happy to see that the duration was 112 rather than the 109 I'd seen previously. More lift (460 vs. 410) as well.

No significant difference from the specs I have.

Cool, thanks.

Doing work!

Found a way to add 2 more horsepower.

Making progress.

Looks good! Are those injectors enough? Looks like 17 lb. injectors. I'd think the 351 with the cam you have would need more.

Thanks! Yes, I'm running 1999 returnless so the fuel pressure is higher.

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After sitting idle much of the summer due to a recent fishing addiction, I've been picking away at the swap again. Got the pedals converted for the hydraulic clutch and will hopefully have the ZF5 in place tomorrow. Had some shiny good stuff show up in the mail today after a long wait:

Make sure you test the slave cylinder before driving that ZF home. Would hate for you to get a crappy one like Digger and I both had and have to pull it after install!


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I sprang for a Sachs master and slave after reading about the issues you guys had, so hopefully I'll avoid that.

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What's that? Some sort of underdrive?

Yup. NP271 based doubler. Gives an additional 2.72:1 before the transfer case.

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Success! A huge thanks to phyler!

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Looks llllooonnnngggg. Time to stretch and link the rear

It's actually only about 5 1/2 inches and goes in place of the adapter, so not too bad. But yeah, already an inch back in the rear and will go another 1-2" when the links go in.

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That the NWFab black box? did you run the 205 or keep the d20? with that underdrive it adds a ton of stress to the d20. make sure to add an HD output.

Behemoth Drivetrain Shorty. Very similar to the NWFab, but a bunch less money. Took a long time and many emails to get, but the machine work appears really high quality. He keeps the cost down by reusing the guts from existing transfer cases, mostly NP241. Kept the D20. I didn't want to deal with the size of the 205. Thought about using a Dana 300 as a compromise, but they're not really smaller and I'm not a heavy throttle wheeler. I've got a couple of spare stock outputs and plan to carry one, but if I'm breaking them then a HD one will go in.

Progress! Rebuilding the D20 was easier than I'd anticipated. Many thanks to Digger for turning down the output shaft of the doubler. Still working with the vendor to get a proper replacement, but I'll keep that as a spare unless the machining looks way better. Been picking away at the smaller tasks too. Need to decide if I'm going to run the current NWP 23 gallon tank and modify it to accept the '99 Mountaineer sending unit or spring for a new tank that's easier to retrofit. Will need a new tank at some point anyway to make room to push the rear axle further back, but don't really have the spare $$ right now for it.

Justin wrote: Will need a new tank at some point anyway to make room to push the rear axle further back, but don't really have the spare $$ right now for it.

We should talk about this if you decide on a new one. I've been in contact with Aero and I think I have a design that will allow the rear axle to be pushed back 2-3" and still have a fair amount of fuel capacity. I need to CAD it up, but perhaps if we order two, they might give us a better deal. $$ isn't flush here either. but I need a new tank someday as well.

In the next several months I'll be needing to ordering a tank from Aero as well, I think my axles is 5-6" back? hoping for around 17 gallons and not have the tank hang as low as their design. Here is a quick drawing of what I came up with a while back without mounting hardware or skid plate.

You shortened the 16.5" to 13.5" and also the 14.5" high to 13". That would help.

I was thinking to leave the plan view essentially the same, shorten the height by 2", but make a c-shape cutout in the front of the tank where the pumpkin wants to be. The overall height of mine is 13-1/8". Overall length is 22-5/8" and width is also 22-5/8". Also, my sender isn't countersunk, but the tank has nubs on top to protect the wiring. I have not done any volume calculations, but it should still be pretty close to 20 gal.

I'd be open to putting together a group buy if we can agree on a design. If nothing else, we'd probably save some shipping cost. I'd like one that can fit (or be modified to fit) the stock explorer sending unit.

I had mine built about 3" shallower than their normal tank, no other mods (about 19 gallons). I've moved it back even with the end of the frame. I had to cut & fold some sheet metal & add hangers to the rear of the frame crossmembers. I've moved my rear axle back 3.25", and my tank is a little close the pumpkin. It won't surprise me if there is a little interference on full compression. If there is too much interference, I might spring for one like JD's talking about with a pre-clearanced area for the pumpkin.

Cool, thanks. I'm tempted to just build one.

More progress....

So, I was going to try to be sneaky and roll into the Platte get-together in my freshly re-powered Bronco. Since Garry is awesome, he spent the afternoon helping me finish up the last of the wiring and working a few bugs out. Fired the engine, which ran...badly. Something is up. The cooling system is pressurizing. With the plugs removed, a little coolant is spraying out of the #6 cylinder. I though the #5 plug came out wet, but may have been mistaken about which one it was. Thoughts? Bad head gasket install? Cracked block? Any help is appreciated.

On the upside, I fired my engine today.

Sorry Justin. That is heartbreaking! We found a leak in the head of my freshly rebuilt engine and it was deflating. We used a product to seal up the crack (a coolant treatment) and I haven't had any issues with leaks in 2 years, but it sounds like yours is a bit more serious than mine was.