I sold the Black rims that came with my truck to get polished. I had a horrible time getting the rims off - many studs were stripped and even spun making it a nightmare to get the rims off. Cortez had to use a grinder and cut the stem off right by the rim. Surprisingly - he did not hurt the rim - he was like a surgeon
I am ready to take the painting rims/tires off and install my new rims and tires.
I need all new wheel studs. My question is Where do I get these and what to I ask for?
I do not want the same problem when changing tires in the future - especially on the trail.
My truck is standard 5 on 5.5 with a Dana 44 up front and a Currie Rear End.
"I truly believe that good will outweigh evil, but there won't be peace on earth until the power of love overcomes the love of power" - Jimi Hendrix
I just went through that. I'd take the rotor / hub and old studs with you to the auto part store and find some that will hold better. Last time we were there it was amazing how many different style/sizes of studs they had. I even saw a picture of Zilla!
1. Wheel off 3. Calipers off 3. Warn hub off 4. Piece of cardboard to lay all the hub parts you take off in order * also note which side of the part came out/goes in first* ** I had to search for the order after my son moved the pieces around** 5. Only the spindle is out of the hub/rotor 6. slide hub/rotor off
This was only the front of my truck, the rear has drums and I didn't need to do them.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more detail/
I was in a little bit of a hurry in the last post. The hub assembly takes a little time and some different tools like the 4 prong hub socket (I rented the hub socket kit at Adv Auto $71 refundable), a C pin taker outer. Pay attention on the 2nd spindle nut. It has a pin that needs to face out so the washer can fit snug up to it. If its not matched up the washer won't be flush. Give me a call if you get stuck.
BTW_ I have stock hubs. If you have fancy shiney premium chrome hubs, they may be slightly different...
Advanced Auto parts Rear wheel studs: part number 98169.1 Front wheel studs: part number 98224.1
Looking at 1.99 each and don't expect to come out of the store with them on the same day.
Show up to BWB on the 16th and I'll save you 20 bucks. I have 10x 98169.1's on the shelf, brand new, from an incorrect order through AAP.
Stroppe'd 1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.
The Terrible One 1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.
x2. That one tool was one of my best investments ever.
Stroppe'd 1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.
The Terrible One 1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.
ZOSO wrote:Chad If you need help getting this apart give me a shout and i'll come by and lend a hand. I have the hub wrench(a toll everyone needs).
I would love the help and you having the tool is the icing on the cake. Anytime you are free would be awesome. I am working on my truck most night and weekends. I really want to get the new rims and tires on - excited to see how the uncut rear quarters look with the 33's.
"I truly believe that good will outweigh evil, but there won't be peace on earth until the power of love overcomes the love of power" - Jimi Hendrix
might try performace wheel and tire on sanata fe and dartmath if you have not found them already
66 Bronco (Molley) injected 418 stroker on juice, klune v ,4 speed atlas hi 9 35 spline air lockers front & rear, rcv axles. 37'' red krawlers. Four other sets of tires for ice racing and dirt drags. 290lbs of welding wire.
Rob walked me through removing the Front Hub. Front wheel studs looked great. I removed the passenger side and wheel studs looked great. Got the hubs installed with only one phone call to Rob lol.
The Rear is a different story. Rob walked me through removing the rear. After getting the rear out, we quickly realized why the rear wheel studs were not seated - there were no wheel studs used, they were bolts. 3 of the 5 bolts were spinning freely.
In the pic you can see the bolts vs. wheel studs. The bottom bolt is the bolt Cortez cut off last fall with a ginder to get the lug nut off to remove the rim and tire. It is surprising that we got the rear rims and tires off the truck. Scary to think how unsafe. Could have been worse to be doing it on the freeway or on the trail.
Rob recommended that I remove the rear axels and take them to a machine shop to have the holes redrilled and new wheel studs pressed.
Anyone know a good machine shop?
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"I truly believe that good will outweigh evil, but there won't be peace on earth until the power of love overcomes the love of power" - Jimi Hendrix
Gotta love them POs. I notice you have a nut missing from your backing plate, one of the ones that holds it on to the axle tube. Do my eyes deceive me?
Stroppe'd 1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.
The Terrible One 1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.
Good eye Punisher - I removed the 4 nuts to pull the axel. The Passenger side axle pulled out easy peasy but the Drivers side is stuck - only moves in and out about a 1/4". I was on the ground with feet on the springs pulling on it and cannot get it out. Rob recommended a Slide hammer but I do not have one. Any other ideas on how to get it out?
"I truly believe that good will outweigh evil, but there won't be peace on earth until the power of love overcomes the love of power" - Jimi Hendrix
Entourage wrote:Good eye Punisher - I removed the 4 nuts to pull the axel. The Passenger side axle pulled out easy peasy but the Drivers side is stuck - only moves in and out about a 1/4". I was on the ground with feet on the springs pulling on it and cannot get it out. Rob recommended a Slide hammer but I do not have one. Any other ideas on how to get it out?
I would keep working at it. Maybe spray some penetrating lube in between the axle tube and bearing cover if you can and then work on it some more, A couple of pry bars will help as well if you can get on a spot for leverage without damaging your brake parts, you can change them lugs without taking your axles out as well.
69 Bronco 69 wrote:I would keep working at it. Maybe spray some penetrating lube in between the axle tube and bearing cover if you can and then work on it some more, A couple of pry bars will help as well if you can get on a spot for leverage without damaging your brake parts, you can change them lugs without taking your axles out as well.
I will try that. Cannot believe how much oil came out all over my garage floor yesterday and over night. I wish I ordered the ShamWow off TV.
"I truly believe that good will outweigh evil, but there won't be peace on earth until the power of love overcomes the love of power" - Jimi Hendrix
We have these pads at the shop made for soaking up all of the oil. I call them "puppy pads" because they remind me of them. they are like a sponge and work well but I still want to get some floor dry to soak it out of the concrete. A drain pan works too but its not as messy. :)
Turn your brake drum backward and install some nuts on your "lug studs" loosely. Use the drum as the hammer. Just grab the drum and yank into the loose lug nuts until the axles pops out. Works every time.
There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"
Some of the story behind this. This is a rear disc swap on there also. But the catch for that is it was made for a car. Has a 5x4.5 and 5x4.75 bolt patterns. So the axles and rotors were redrilled for the 5x5.5 bolt pattern. And it wasn't done properly with atleast wheel studs.
As for pulling the rear axle bolt on a chain to the studs. leave a little slack and give it a good hard pull. the snap of the chain should pop it loose.
Rob
74 Ranger EFI351w, 4r70w, ARB 5.13 9in, ARB 5.13D44, and a bunch of other goodies. Best of all the family memories.
04 Mustang Cobra, KenneBell 2.2 feeding a lot of boost on E85. Tire shredding machine
New project: 77 Bronco Ranger, body work and more body work.
Very little left of a 72 durango tan explorer sport
Entourage wrote:Now ya tell me to use a drain pan lol
I will pick up some floor dry.
I dunno how much that floor dry costs, but I keep about 20 pounds of cat litter in the garage for just such reason. Dump it on heavy, grind it in with your boots/shoes, and sweep it clean. Been using the same jug now through two brake jobs and a oil pan gasket replacement and it's still sucking up the fluid.
Stroppe'd 1972 Sport, 302, 3 speed with old school Duff floor shifter, T shift Dana 20 with JB Fab twin stick, 4.11 gears with Trac-loc, Lincoln hydroboost, Chevy disc conversion, WH gas lift gate shock kit, 33" Duratrac tires on slots and about 2.5" of lift, Stroppe installed: bumper braces, dual shocks on all four corners, GM power steering, trans cooler mount, auto shift column, rollbar.
The Terrible One 1972 Sport uncut, 302, C4 with 1974 column , T shift Dana 20, 3.50 gears w/ limited slip, 1966 U13 Roadster kick panel, and factory power steering.
Alright - got home with Dan's killer Axel Puller / Slide Hammer. Got it hooked up and pulled that thing 50 times. Heavy tool and was really getting on it, trying to free the axle. Even pushed the axle back in, then slid the hammer. No futher movement than the above 1/4" and still no closer to getting it pulled out.
The Passenger slide slip out without even pulling on it so not sure WTH is up. Any ideas?
"I truly believe that good will outweigh evil, but there won't be peace on earth until the power of love overcomes the love of power" - Jimi Hendrix
Heat up the axle housing around where the axle bearing is and pound on it. Should help. Probably won't take a lot of heat but that will be your best bet at this point.
There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness"
