www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

I think my biggest current need is a 3G alternator upgrade.

I'm going to head to the Springs U Pull and Pay sometime in the next week to look for one. I think a 130amp should do me fine. Early to mid 90s Mustang or similar ford I think.

I haven't done a u pull before. Any suggestions for tools I'm likely to need?

I'm planning on:

Wire cutters
Box end/open end wrenches 7/16 up to 3/4
Socket set & deepwell set in similar sizes
Pliers of various types
Crowbar

I might glance at Hydroboost while I'm there.

I would also look for the combo washer / radiator overflow tank while you are there

I got mine for 11 dollars and love it

Rox Crusher wrote:I would also look for the combo washer / radiator overflow tank while you are there

I got mine for 11 dollars and love it

Already have one

I see that you are taking SAE size wrenches. If you are looking at a hydroboost, you will need Metric size wrenches or atleast the Astro/Safari vans have metric nuts and bolts.

A good BFH will come in handy if you find that part that you really want but the rust is being presistant at not giving up the part.

15mm deep socket, plus a long (~12 inche) extension to get to the nuts off the dash side of the hydroboost.

Man, the HB is a PAIN IN THE ARSE to get off. You gotta pull half the lower dash off to get them too. But they are definitely worth it. Bring an elbow too to get the socket up in there, there is one bolt that you have to have an elbow to get to. I was thinking about going down there saturday. I was gonna look for a heater like I was talking about in the other thread and also a 3G. Might even look at some seats as mine are starting to wear out. Just depends on if I can get my ducks in a row to be able to get out there by then.

big yes on 15mm deep.
I got lucky and the dash was completely removed for me on the van I pulled mine from.
Also a 15 boxend and 12 or 13 (cant remeber) to remove the master cyclinder.
dont bother as you can buy a new one for the same as a reman but no core charge??

small tubing cutter would have been nice to just cut the hard lines and leave the fitting inside the HB unit. save as much line as you can.
The guys who did my lines used thhose old threads and just welded on an adapter.

that way you have the perfect end as cheby intended to use.
also I usually take some break away or WD or something like that, can help.

Just remember once you are there it sucks not having what you need
( I used a 5/8 deep instead of 15mm, it worked but I hated it) so carry a bunch cause you never know what you might find.

With the weather supposed to deteriorate this week, I decided to run down over lunch.

I got my 3g alternator but didn't have time to even look for a hydroboost. I did learn some things though:

1) Finish your burger and fries before going in.
2) Take the free wheelbarrow. Lugging tools all over and setting everything in the dirt is a pain.
3) Holy Cow is there allot of people, cars, and parts in there.
4) Double check, tripple check, and quadruple check that you didn't leave any tools sitting on fenders, air filters, ground, etc.

Did you go to the pick-n-pull down off of 85/87? What did it end up costing ya for that 3G?

I think that's the one. From I-25 head West on Circle about 300 yards, then turn South. Follow that road about 2 or 3 miles until it crosses back over I-25. About 1/4 mile (or less) after crossing I-25 it's on the left hand side.

Cost $2 just to go in and look.
Cost $29 for an Alternator. I got all of the wiring I could including the super fuse and a bunch of 2ga wire.

I got it off an early 90's Taurus. I could see purple windings which posts said meant it was a 130 amp 3G.

I've got a question.

Which is better for finishing my 3G conversion

1) Tap the bottom hole or drill and tap to put the tightening bolt in. Is the metal too soft and will strip?

2) Drill tap and heli-coil the hole

3) Use a bolt with a nut on the far side. Maybe tac weld the nut on the far side

The problem is, I don't have a tap set.

i drilled and tapped mine to the same thread as the old clamp bolt for the bronco altenator, and i've been running it for 2yrs trouble free

"I would also look for the combo washer / radiator overflow tank while you are there"

What vehicle did these come on?

BFD305 wrote:"I would also look for the combo washer / radiator overflow tank while you are there"

What vehicle did these come on?

l think they were on 80s F series, Broncos, and early explorers.

The pull and pay in Aurora had at least 10 to choose from when I was there late this summer.

Vragor wrote:With the weather supposed to deteriorate this week, I decided to run down over lunch.

I got my 3g alternator but didn't have time to even look for a hydroboost.

I think I have a spare hydro in storage. I'll have a look this weekend and see if I can find it. I may even have a spare dual return Saginaw in there too. Just been so damn long since I was there I forget.

I think I paid 25 bucks for the hydro. Salvage yard charged me the price for a master cylinder (25 bucks, IIRC) which was pretty sweet. Yours pro bono, as payment for the sweet pulled pork at the COS M&G.

i got my combo washer/ coolant bottle out of a 94' bronco, and the washer pump had the same connector as my 75 washer pump, and it puts out 3times the pressure at the jets, they ran that bottle atleast till 96 or 96 in the f-series and broncos, and i think some earlier 90's exploders ran em' too

akaFrankCastle wrote:I think I have a spare hydro in storage. I'll have a look this weekend and see if I can find it. I may even have a spare dual return Saginaw in there too. Just been so damn long since I was there I forget.

I think I paid 25 bucks for the hydro. Salvage yard charged me the price for a master cylinder (25 bucks, IIRC) which was pretty sweet. Yours pro bono, as payment for the sweet pulled pork at the COS M&G.

That would be great, thanks.

YAY! My fan belt squeaks!

I finished the conversion. I took the alternator to Autozone and had it tested. After fiddling with wires and connectors for 10 minutes he finally said it was good

Then I took it to a friends house to use his air impact wrench. The old push came right off then put the v-belt pulle right back on. I had to use a drill bit to ream a small ridge out of the pivot hole so I could fit my bolt through.

I dont have a tap set so I decided to use a carriage bolt and nut through the bottom hole to tighten against the bracket. The carriage bolt locked into the bracket so I could just tighten the nut from the back

Finally I connected the wires

I had gotten the 175 amp fuse. I used a small bolt to connect the 4ga wire from the alternator to the fuse. I also connected the yellow/white wire to the fuse. I wrapped wires and 1/2 of the fuse with electricL tape then attached the other end of the fuse right onto the supply side of the solenoid

Lastly i connected the green/brown wire from the alternator to the green brown wire that used to go to the voltage regulator

I double checked everything and re connected the battery then started the engine. I heard the tell tell sound of the fan belt squeaking for 1/2 second then it ran normal

Voltage holds steady at 14.5 v now and the heater fan doesn't slow down at stop lights

Vragor wrote:YAY! My fan belt squeaks!

I finished the conversion. I took the alternator to Autozone and had it tested. After fiddling with wires and connectors for 10 minutes he finally said it was good

Then I took it to a friends house to use his air impact wrench. The old push came right off then put the v-belt pulle right back on. I had to use a drill bit to ream a small ridge out of the pivot hole so I could fit my bolt through.

I dont have a tap set so I decided to use a carriage bolt and nut through the bottom hole to tighten against the bracket. The carriage bolt locked into the bracket so I could just tighten the nut from the back

Finally I connected the wires

I had gotten the 175 amp fuse. I used a small bolt to connect the 4ga wire from the alternator to the fuse. I also connected the yellow/white wire to the fuse. I wrapped wires and 1/2 of the fuse with electricL tape then attached the other end of the fuse right onto the supply side of the solenoid

Lastly i connected the green/brown wire from the alternator to the green brown wire that used to go to the voltage regulator

I double checked everything and re connected the battery then started the engine. I heard the tell tell sound of the fan belt squeaking for 1/2 second then it ran normal

Voltage holds steady at 14.5 v now and the heater fan doesn't slow down at stop lights

Sounds like you're running the alternator upgrade clinic!