engine advice pls

[jgrow]

I've got a '72 with what I know is the original 302. Engine performance is so so. I've owned 3 others and the last one I had was stronger/peppy'er. I believe that one was a 88 mustang 302. So anyways, this one is leaking everywhere; Water pump gasket bad, main seal, oil pan, valve covers, etc. I'm not much of a mechanic but sure do like trying things and getting in over my head. I'm thinking I pull it and throw new gaskets everywhere. Should i be rebuilding too? I think I can justify throwing $1k into this winter project. so with that, should i be rebuilding this one or should i be looking for used 80's-90's 302/351 to throw in there? My concern with buying a used engine is that I get hoodwinked into some beat up block that needs a bunch of $ dropped in it. Any suggestions how to proceed here? Thanks guys

[Jesus_man]

I don't know what an engine rebuilt kit costs, but I am not sure you can do it for under $1k.

Deals can be had on later model 5.0's with EFI and that would bring the pep!

[akaFrankCastle]

I'm with J.D. Keep your eye on the Craigslist ads for a decent used late model EFI motor. I've lately seen some 5.0s and 5.8s going for less than 1000, some advertised with wiring and computers. If your budget is really tight and you want to keep the Bronco on the road, pick up a builder motor and put that together on a stand. Once you've got it where you want it, drop it in the Bronco. Then take your old block, tune it up and resell it to make back some money.

[jgrow]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the feedback. I like the strategy of sitting and watching for a late 90's. I'm just concerned that I may get 'taken' when one pops up. I'll may ask you for feedback on a few when I find. Again, thanks for the responses.

[akaFrankCastle]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the feedback. I like the strategy of sitting and watching for a late 90's. I'm just concerned that I may get 'taken' when one pops up. I'll may ask you for feedback on a few when I find. Again, thanks for the responses.

If you want to avoid getting taken on a face to face deal, you can always ask the seller to pull a head when you go to pick it up. Head gaskets are cheap and its nice to have a look in the cylinders if you can. If he balks, you can try running a cylinder leak down test to see if they are holding compression. And if its still in a vehicle and running, find someone with a copy of Auto Enginuity software, hook it up to the OBD, and run a couple hundred tests on the entire system to see what might be failing.

[jgrow]

thanks for the offer. I'm in NW Colo Springs.

[Gunnibronco]

I've been thinking lately (usually a bad thing), and I'll throw this out to you. I'm in Gunnison, and will probably break the deal, but I've got a 96 Explorer motor I got in April. It came from an Eddie Bower, auto trans w/88,000 miles. The truck was in great shape, but was hit hard enough to total. The yard damaged the fan blades pulling it, but other wise it could bolt in. I have everything to the flex plate, but no starter. I was going to swap motors, but my motor is fairly fresh, and I've decided to only use the EFI stuff off the motor. I'd consider selling the rest, if you are interested. I could also sell my Edelbrock 4bbl & performer intake, & MSD dizzy, coil, & 6 control box, if we could work out the timing, they are in use right now. The Explorer motor has GT40 (not P) heads, rollered cam & valve train, & good serpentine set up & clutch fan.

Chad

[Shawns Fords]

I have been around the block a few times (no pun intended) I have always based the idea of rebuilding or resealing is going to be decided on how bad the leaks around the crank seals are and the condition of internal parts once it is taken apart for inspection. If you know the mileage that even helps decide even more. Keep in mind that if you have a bad leak around your front crank seal, or the rear main seal, you more than likely have excessive play in your crankshafts main journals. It can also be caused by excessive crankcase pressure, but those types of leaks are more or less intermittent (leak when pressure is high and don't leak as bad when pressure is normal)

I also feel if you know you have a good engine and want to freshen it up, you can go 2 routes, one is to exchange it for a re-manufactured engine of the same make, or rebuild that one yourself. My last project was a 460 install in a 64 F100 and I traded a froze up 460 core in and 1500 bucks for a fresh 460 with a 5 year/50k warranty. Just my 2 cents but feel it is the best way to go. I looked at a cpl engines on craigs list for my 81 F250 and the one I was told it was a good running engine when taken out and he turned it over the other day, yet when I showed up it was frozen solid. its hit and miss on that for certain. You don't know who your dealing with and have to be experienced with engine mechanics if you want to go that route.

[airbur]

If you are up for a learning extravaganza....engine rebuild kits are cheap!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-M ... /?rtype=10

[Booger]

When I was a little bit younger (well maybe a lotta bit younger) a buddy and I rebuilt his 260 in his Falcon for just the cost of bearings, rings and gaskets. We used a ridge reamer to remove the cylinder ridge, honed the cylinders, installed new rings, if crank wasn't scored we'd just replace bearings, install new valve seals, new gaskets, timing chain and go. Since I was in auto mechanics in HS I would take the heads to school to touch up the valves and install the seals. Great learning experience for some dumb high school kids. We did it a few times, not sure if it was for practice or what. That 260 was thoroughly abused every day. We raced it at Bandimere regularly and at the end of it's life it sat between the frame rails of a '34 5 window coupe. I remember in the end the valves started to float at around 4500 rpm but that thing was like an old Timex.
Did we ever check ring end gap? No. Did we check bearing clearances? No.
Just food for thought.

[airbur]

What did you decide?

[jgrow]

well, let me start by saying im pretty sure i have A.D.D. I researched some junkyard engines and looked on craigslist and even went and looked at a couple but never felt comfortable with the unknown history so I decided to buy some gaskets and replace them and see if that suffices for now. So, I've got the engine bay torn down and gaskets arrived from summit but in the meantime, I bought a welder. I've always wanted to learn. So I've been spending more time trying to figure out how to weld then working on the engine. And of course when I found an extra 6hrs to myself I decided to install the 1" body lift that I purchased a few months back. So now she sits with a 4.5" susp lift and 1"BL with 35's...woo-hoo! Looks good, but still in pieces. So I'm thinking I'll continue to spend time here and there to replace gaskets and get her running while trying to figure out how not to blow through steel welding so i can patch a few rust holes on the inside. this is no show truck, just used to kick it around town and play in the woods once in a while. Down the road when I find more time and money, I'll throw a newer engine in or rebuild this one. thanks for all the advice.