Eck's 351W build thread

Post by **Eck** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:40 pm

I figured I'd start a thread for this so that I can try to keep everything in one place.

I will be pulling the engine this Saturday around 10:30am. I'm gonna try get as much disconnected as I can ahead of time so it shouldn't take too long.

If you can lend a hand, I'd be very appreciative. I'll have some sort of lunch provided for anyone who can attend. Depending on the knowledge level, and time availability- may start to break the engine down for inspection.

PM for my address if you can help.

I've been reading up on how to take the engine apart and it doesn't look too difficult but I'm not real sure what to really look for and diagnose once that's done.

I'll take lots of pics!

Post by **akaFrankCastle** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:54 pm

Get yourself a 2x4 about 4' long. Cut it in half and the cut one of those sections in half. Three pieces, one 24", two 12". On the 24" piece drill 8 holes for your push rods on one end. See picture. On one of your 12" pieces drill another 8 holes. Once all the push rods are out and seated in the 24" piece, put the 12" piece over the other end of the push rods and tape the contraption together. Mark which end of the wood corresponds with the front of the block and keep the pushrods in order, front to rear. Do the same for the lifters.

A cheap and easy way to keep everything together and in order.

I'd also drill some holes across the top of that new work bench and insert dowel rods in them. You can hang your pistons and connecting rods off of them when they come out.

Use a permanent marker to label orientation of the pistons (which side of the piston was facing the front, what order in the block).

Post by **Eck** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:13 pm

Thanks for the tip!

Post by **akaFrankCastle** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:23 pm

Seeing as the trails are closed/washing out and breakfasts seem to be falling apart, count me in to help rip this thing out. I'm no longer medicated so I can't promise I'll be entertaining.

Why 10:30? You planning a late night Friday?

Post by **Eck** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:43 pm

akaFrankCastle wrote:Seeing as the trails are closed/washing out and breakfasts seem to be falling apart, count me in to help rip this thing out. I'm no longer medicated so I can't promise I'll be entertaining.

Why 10:30? You planning a late night Friday?

Awesome! I'll send you my info. I thought 10:30 would be a good guesstimate of a start time following the breakfast. If nobody wants to do the breakfast or if we want to move the breakfast to my garage, we can start it earlier. There is a Dunkin Donuts a mile from me. Mere mention of the DD usually pulls Kinder from the Deep South.

Post by **akaFrankCastle** » Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:19 pm

DUNKIN!!!!!!

Post by **hockeydad4-22** » Fri Jul 18, 2014 4:38 am

Good luck guys, shouldn't take to long to pull that engine. I am going to be in my garage working on Drews rig so I will miss this one.

Have fun

Post by **Eck** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 3:36 pm

Got the complete engine torn down this morning with the help of ToolMan, Digger, AkaFrankCastle, Nascar Mike, EFIGuy and my buddy Levi. It's definitely a good thing we pulled the engine- there is work to be done. The cylinders look like they'll need to be honed (hopefully that is all). New pistons, rod bearings. Rods need to be checked out as well. The crankshaft will at minimum need polished and maybe replaced and the camshaft maybe polished. New lifters. Engine boiled as well. Not to mention a number of replacement parts that according to the guys helping is just another 100 per part.

So- definitely not the best case scenario I was hoping for. After I can get a machinist and/or engine builder look at it and give me some definitive answers- I'll know what exactly what I'm in for.

NASCAR Mike is gonna ask his engine guy about his machinist but does anyone have any good and reasonable recommendations for shops?

Post by **akaFrankCastle** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 4:01 pm

Eck wrote:

I told you I wouldn't be much help. There I am looking for an engine while everyone else has obviously found it.

Post by **Eck** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 5:03 pm

More pictures of the damage. Man was there a lot of metal in the bottom of the oil pan.

The cylinders:

Pistons: chunked rod bearings too

Crankshaft:

And lost and found. Two sockets and a mug. Pretty sure the deep socket is Nascar Mike's.

Post by **Eck** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 5:04 pm

akaFrankCastle wrote:
Eck wrote:

I told you I wouldn't be much help. There I am looking for an engine while everyone else has obviously found it.

Best one-armed bolt loosener this side of the Platte River. Plus those donuts weren't eating themselves!

Seriously thanks for coming up from the Springs to help!

Post by **Justin** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 5:36 pm

Bummer. At that point is almost be going for a bad crank. Then you could build a budget 393 stroker. Sorry I couldn't make it. I was busy communing with a Warthog.

Post by **Viperwolf1** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:40 pm

What size are the pistons? Cylinders don't look like 500 miles to me. Might be a good idea to have the big ends of the rods re-sized too. They may not be round anymore.

Post by **akaFrankCastle** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:43 pm

.030 over is what they were marked.

Post by **Digger** » Sat Jul 19, 2014 11:01 pm

That sucks :sad:

Post by **Rox Crusher** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:23 am

OUCH !

Post by **kbank6** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:01 am

Yes, that does suck. With the damage there is I would look into a short block or possibly a long block depending on the head condition. You figure a kit is going to be between 800 and a thousand then you have machine work.

Post by **Eck** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:18 am

kbank6 wrote:Yes, that does suck. With the damage there is I would look into a short block or possibly a long block depending on the head condition. You figure a kit is going to be between 800 and a thousand then you have machine work.

Heads seem to be just fine. Other than looking on CL, anywhere else to find short blocks?

Post by **akaFrankCastle** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:32 am

Advance/Auto Zone, etc. is you are looking for out of the plastic.

Post by **kbank6** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:37 am

I don't know at the moment but napa, maybe? I will check a few places we use and grt back with you if I find anything.

Post by **Eck** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:14 am

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-s ... oCpBjw_wcB

Thoughts? I am not sure how bored (if at all) these are.

Post by **akaFrankCastle** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:41 am

Should be a standard bore unless otherwise indicated.

Shipping being free makes it seem like a pretty sweet deal.

Post by **Rox Crusher** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 10:22 am

Eck wrote:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-sp10?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjw0a2eBRDVrabv9vWJ90USJACsKRDHwTiMsJne0OYC-4QQJ2gaoky6Ne2PReDBQEddboYsKRoCpBjw_wcB

Thoughts? I am not sure how bored (if at all) these are.

It would be nice to pick the right cam to ship along with it and get it dropped in the EB so you can enjoy the balance of summer.

If this had happened during fall or winter, I would do a local rebuild.

Post by **kbank6** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 11:44 am

Napa uses ATK which is a very good engine. Autozone has the same thing but a long block for around 1250 and 3 year warrenty and made by surefire. I have used them before with no issues. There warranty is 3 year unlimited miles, no fault. I thought there was another one in COS and I think it is Ace Engine Supply you might want to look at. Also there are some engine builders on CL that you could call on. I agree with Rox that you should keep it local.

Post by **Eck** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:59 pm

I can't seem to find the parts stores info online. Am I missing something? I'm not sure I'd consider those "local"?

I did notice this add on CL. https://denver.craigslist.org/ptd/4570386195.html

May give them a call tomorrow to ask some things. Any major questions to ask/consider?

I just want to make sure I'm not going backwards with this and I'm doing it right the first time. Not looking for anything crazy

from the engine but would like it to be reliable and fun.

Post by **Rox Crusher** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:18 pm

I'm going to guess that CL ad is for them to rebuild yours, or take yours as a core.

If not, that's a deal

Post by **landshark** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:05 pm

I might tAke everything to Scott at mpg heads in engle wood. He's a good guy and a bunch of us are running engines that he machined. He is a straight shooter and won't charge you for advice. He's going to want to know what kind of engine you want to end up with.

Let him know it's for an early bronco and go from there.

Post by **Eck** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 7:25 pm

landshark wrote:I might tAke everything to Scott at mpg heads in engle wood. He's a good guy and a bunch of us are running engines that he machined. He is a straight shooter and won't charge you for advice. He's going to want to know what kind of engine you want to end up with.

Let him know it's for an early bronco and go from there.

Thanks- I'll give him a call as well.

Post by **landshark** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:16 pm

Eck wrote:
landshark wrote:I might tAke everything to Scott at mpg heads in engle wood. He's a good guy and a bunch of us are running engines that he machined. He is a straight shooter and won't charge you for advice. He's going to want to know what kind of engine you want to end up with.

Let him know it's for an early bronco and go from there.

Thanks- I'll give him a call as well.

Yup, hes going to tell you to probably bring everything down ;)

Post by **Justin** » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:56 pm

landshark wrote:I might tAke everything to Scott at mpg heads in engle wood. He's a good guy and a bunch of us are running engines that he machined. He is a straight shooter and won't charge you for advice. He's going to want to know what kind of engine you want to end up with.

Let him know it's for an early bronco and go from there.

X2. I was impressed when I took him my gt40 heads.

www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com