Half Cab install

[rt9]

Hello. I have a 1967 U15 that we installed a half cab on. I am in the process of changing the door rubber from JBG to the WH seals. To start with, the WH seals make the doors much easier to close, but I notice when the windows are up, the doors are tough to close. It's like an air block in the cab. Has anyone else experienced this?

Rick

[landshark]

i have the same issue on my restored 76. i have to crack open a window to get the doors to close without slamming them HARD. I have had the new seals on 2.5 years now. Going to try and rehang the doors and do some slight adjustments to help improve the slamming.. afraid of breaking the window tracks.

[BOBS 2 68S]

Rusty holes on the floor let my doors close.
I open the drivers side firewall vent. It helps

[rt9]

Thanks guys. I was beginning to wonder if I some something installed wrong. Once I get the new door seal kit completely installed , I'll let you know how it compares, and if it's easier to close the doors.

[rt9]

So I got both sets of the new door seals installed last week. Saturday I took a trip over to Dawson Butte and was amazed at the difference. No more loud wind noise and the doors actually close now.
Overall it was a big improvement. You still need to give it a little muscle when you close the door, but NOTHING like the earlier set of seals, and again, most of this is now caused by the air block issue. This air venting has yet to be resolved since most driving will now be done with the windows open.

[Rox Crusher]

Whose seals did you buy ?

[rt9]

Originally I had the one from Jeff's, but struggled to get them to seal correctly and they were extremely stiff. So, this time I went with the Wild Horses set. I'm very happy with the quality.

[Rox Crusher]

Thank you, glad to hear a good review and glad yours worked out

[landshark]

Yes thanks for the review. Don't remember where I got mine from but might have to try a set from wh. Are they dennis carpenters?

[rt9]

Hi guys. Not sure where WH gets them. Tjey are bulk packaged in a box with no labels. One word of advice though. Do not go by the L or R on the upper seals for which door to install them on. This is simply a mold mark only.

[Gregg]

I recently installed the WH lower door seal on the driver side. I have to slam the f**k out of the door for it to close completely. I wish I had researched this a little more before I bought them. However, it was a WH XMAS Special. I don't think cracking the window will make much difference with a soft top but I'll give it a try. Over at CB.com someone suggested a heat gun...
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... hut&page=2
Any other idears?

[Rox Crusher]

I ordered a set of these.

http://northeastclassicfordparts.com/we ... -seal.html

They are from delconik on CB.com and I understand he is a stand up guy

Fingers crossed.

[landshark]

Let me know how it goes. I have to slam my door or open the window a bit to get mine to close

[mickphatmac]

I recently installed the WH lower door seal on the driver side. I have to slam the f**k out of the door for it to close completely. I wish I had researched this a little more before I bought them. However, it was a WH XMAS Special. I don't think cracking the window will make much difference with a soft top but I'll give it a try. Over at CB.com someone suggested a heat gun...
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... hut&page=2
Any other idears?

I got the JBG ones, my drivers side would NOT close no matter how hard I slammed it... Passenger side fit great without any trouble.

I found that the thick rubber part on the foreward tip with the screw in it up by the dash had to be trimmed.
I cut about 1/2" off of the back of the square part opposite where the screw goes in...just up to the metal insert so the metal inside the rubber is still attached and wont pop off when the screw tightens down on it. Don't cut it all the way down to the metal insert, leave at least 1/8".

I can't remember exactly how the rear of the molding got cut down but I think I cut both of the mating surfaces. The part facing into the cab that is in contact with metal and the rubber facing the rear of the Bronco opposite the screw, again like the front.
They are tight, but they close all the way with effort, but no slamming! Wind noise is almost zero-ish :)

I suggest doing the front bumper 1st, that made a big difference and then check for where your application is binding up.

I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the middle rubber on any of the Mfg's but rather, Both ends!

[rt9]

I second this. I had to do a bit of trimming as well.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

[Gunnibronco]

Rox, let us know how those work. They are much cheaper than the Metro or Rubbersteel options.

Interesting info about cutting the ends of the seals, I haven't read that one before. I did read to try cutting the flap off the seal along the bottom of the door, and using 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, instead of the push-pins to secure it.

I've been reading about door seals for about 1 year now. Metro seemed to have the best reputation, I read good stuff about Steelrubber, too. I had a set of Metro Softseals on my Amazon wish list, just waiting to order them until I actually needed them. Metro took them off the market & are apparently revamping them and will reintroduce them soonish. The WH rep on CB.com says even Metro's samples varied widely in their stiffness when they considered reselling them.

[Gregg]

I recently installed the WH lower door seal on the driver side. I have to slam the f**k out of the door for it to close completely. I wish I had researched this a little more before I bought them. However, it was a WH XMAS Special. I don't think cracking the window will make much difference with a soft top but I'll give it a try. Over at CB.com someone suggested a heat gun...
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... hut&page=2
Any other idears?

I got the JBG ones, my drivers side would NOT close no matter how hard I slammed it... Passenger side fit great without any trouble.

I found that the thick rubber part on the foreward tip with the screw in it up by the dash had to be trimmed.
I cut about 1/2" off of the back of the square part opposite where the screw goes in...just up to the metal insert so the metal inside the rubber is still attached and wont pop off when the screw tightens down on it. Don't cut it all the way down to the metal insert, leave at least 1/8".

I can't remember exactly how the rear of the molding got cut down but I think I cut both of the mating surfaces. The part facing into the cab that is in contact with metal and the rubber facing the rear of the Bronco opposite the screw, again like the front.
They are tight, but they close all the way with effort, but no slamming! Wind noise is almost zero-ish :)

I suggest doing the front bumper 1st, that made a big difference and then check for where your application is binding up.

I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the middle rubber on any of the Mfg's but rather, Both ends!

I unscrewed the ends and pulled them into the cab a bit. It still took the same amount of force to close the door. I think its the bottom of the door that is too thick.

[Rox Crusher]

The price is for this week only and he doesn't say what the normal price will be so I just shook the dice and ordered. Only problem is they are on back order with no estimated lead time.

So, I'm hoping others will chime in With product reviews on this thread.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showth ... p?t=262359