Dana 30/Front End Work

[colby45]

Hey guys,

I had some questions about working on the, what I assume is, the Dana 30 front end in my Bronco. My '66 is in need of some big time TLC in the front end. New axle U-joints, tie-rod ends, radius arm bushings, coil springs and shocks all need to be done. My question is, would it be easier to remove the whole axle/differential and do the work than trying to get underneath the truck to do most of that, or just sack up and get it done in-place? I'd like to do as much of the front end work in one go as possible to solve some wobble issues we've been having and be done with it, but I've never done much work in this area and don't have much of a shop to work in, so I though I would try to get some expert advice. Thanks!

-Colby

[Justin]

All of that is fairly easy to do in place. It's a heavy enough assembly that most people do the work with it on jack stands rather than lifting it onto a table, so there isn't much benefit. That said, you're going to pretty much pull it anyway if you do the radius arm bushings. You should add track bar bushings to that list, especially since you'll be pulling it anyway. You might see if the other stuff solves your problem before messing around with them if you're short on a good space to work in.

[colby45]

All of that is fairly easy to do in place. It's a heavy enough assembly that most people do the work with it on jack stands rather than lifting it onto a table, so there isn't much benefit. That said, you're going to pretty much pull it anyway if you do the radius arm bushings. You should add track bar bushings to that list, especially since you'll be pulling it anyway. You might see if the other stuff solves your problem before messing around with them if you're short on a good space to work in.

Okay that makes sense. I'm really trying to solve the death wobble first and foremost and I have a feeling that the ancient, out of balance tires are the culprit. The U-joints have to be done, and the tie rods seem pretty sloppy, but I think I can hold off on radius arm/track bar bushings to see if the problem is fixed before I completely pull it. Thanks for the heads up on the track bar bushings.

[Justin]

If your tie rod ends are shot, that could easily be the problem. I'd do the track bar bushings no matter what. They're ridiculously easy (under an hour once you've done it before) and can make a big difference.

[colby45]

Ah okay. I had no idea track bar bushings could make that much of a difference. I know the tie rods are shot, but I'll need to check the track bar as I don't think I ever took a good look at the bushings. I'm sure they are shot as well. I'll add that to my to-do list.

[colby45]

I also have a question about tie rods. Should I go ahead and replace both the passenger and driver side tie-rod? Or do the boots just need to be replaced?

[Rox Crusher]

snow plowing is really hard on the steering linkages so I would suspect you might be better off (ie, safer) replacing them altogether.

[Justin]

The boots are just there to help keep crud out. The ends themselves need to be replaced. It may be cheaper to do 1 ton ends with DOM tube than stock replacement parts.

[colby45]

Well the new tires seemed to fix the death wobble from what I can tell. The steering is sloppy so I went ahead and ordered new, stock tie rods and drag link and track bar bushings. If all goes well I hope to have it installed, aligned and back on the road by next weekend. Although new tires made a world of difference. It's much more drive-able now.