Dana 20 Rebuild with Twin Stick

[Eck]

So I have spent the last 3 days reading everything I possibly can on the rebuild and twin sticking of the Dana 20. I feel like I have a fairly good understanding of the process and am about 60% confident I could put this thing back together correctly. Where I am a little bit unsure is when it comes to sealing everything properly, shim spacing vs. preload, and how the Advanced Adapter/Twin Stick/Dana 20 rebuild kit all work together.

If there is someone that would be willing to assist me or help me go through it, I would greatly appreciate it. Also, if there is anyone that would like to participate or go through it as well, I would be happy to host a mini tech day. I just want to make sure it is done right the first time while it and the transmission are out from under the Bronco.

Thanks for considering someone a little less fortunate in Dana20 knowledge this holiday season!

Eck

[Justin]

I have no idea what I'm doing, but own a press and need to do my spare tcase at some point. If you want some help screwing it up I'm game.

[phyler]

I'd be keen on seeing how it's done. I've never done one but not afraid of helping.

[Eck]

I have no idea what I'm doing, but own a press and need to do my spare tcase at some point. If you want some help screwing it up I'm game.

I would say if you are wanting to rebuild yours and have the funds to purchase the kit-- we could probably try to do both the same day. If not, hopefully we can get someone to "direct" and at least do mine correctly and then you should have a pretty good idea on how to do yours down the road...

[Justin]

I need to buy a couple of gears for mine as well. I probably won't be ready till at least after Christmas.

[ZOSO]

Its not too hard. I did mine blind. I tore mine apart and didn't pay attention on how it came apart. Being a t shift you have a different front output. I set mine with pre load and not end play.

[DanHall]

I also set mine with preload rather than end play on the recommendation of those I think are wiser in the way of EBs than me. The only difficult portion of the disassembly was getting the bearing out enough to get to the c clip on the front output. At least that is all I remember being difficult, and I had to do it all twice as I had a problem with only one pill left in there that caused shifting problems. I didn't rebuild the spud shaft though as I am going with a 4R70W tranny and that piece is replaced with the AA kit. JB fab twin shift seens to fit nicely but I don't have it in the truck yet.

[Eck]

I've got mine completely disassembled and cleaned up. WH deluxe rebuild kit, D20 to ZF5 adapter, and twin sticks is in my possession.

I'm thinking between myself, Justin, and Phyler- we should have enough competence to make this happen. With the exception of the couple days around Christmas and the NYE weekend, I'm pretty flexible.

Let me know what works.

[Justin]

After new years is way better for me. My folks come in tomorrow and go back to canada on the 5th. Thatll also give me a chance to see what Santa and the birthday truck parts fairy bring.

[akaFrankCastle]

Don't suppose I can drop off 3 or 4 D20s and just pick them up from you guys when you're done rebuilding them for me, could I? ;)

[ZOSO]

I've got mine completely disassembled and cleaned up. WH deluxe rebuild kit, D20 to ZF5 adapter, and twin sticks is in my possession.

I'm thinking between myself, Justin, and Phyler- we should have enough competence to make this happen. With the exception of the couple days around Christmas and the NYE weekend, I'm pretty flexible.

Let me know what works.

Make sure you have new nuts for the yokes.

[B.O.B.]

X2 on those yoke nuts. It not too bad. I think the worse part for me was getting the roller pins back in with my it them falling out. With it being colder outside the petroleum jelly should not melt like mine did when I did it in the summer.

[Eck]

Where did you buy the yoke nuts from? As for the roller pins, I bought some transmission gel that is supposed to work really well for holding them in place.

[Kinder]

I believe Fastenall is a good source for the yoke nuts, especially if you are planning to rebuild a few.

[Eck]

I believe Fastenall is a good source for the yoke nuts, especially if you are planning to rebuild a few.

From a thread on CB- Viperwolf mentioned the size being a 3/4" 16TPI Top lock nut. On Fastenal's site, they have 2 different ones. A yellow zinc finish steel Grade 9 application for 3.36/each. They also have a Grade C zinc finish steel one for 1.55/each.

Does it matter which one?

Anyone else want me to order them any while I am getting some?

Frank-- if you are serious about building a few and there are a couple of people that are interested in participating in a mini tech day that do not have their own to build, it seems like it could be a good day to participate and get a few built. If Justin and Phyler end up not having one to rebuild yet there is 2 right there plus 1 more if you are participating (not to speak for them if they would rather not...)

[Justin]

I'm open to it. Re: the yoke nuts, I'll always spend $2 for stronger parts. I'll take 2.

[ZOSO]

I bought mine at murdochs. they were like 1.19 each.

[phyler]

I won't have mine but an willing to work on someone's for them. I can meet up any time after this Friday. Just let me know when.

[Dukietown]

Depending on the day I'd be interested in watching and learning. I'm good at fetching tools and scratching my beard contemplatively...

[Eck]

I'm going to attempt to tackle this on Saturday. Will probably get going at about 9am. If you want to come by and lend another set of eyes and opinions, let me know and I can send you my info. Beer fridge is full and can order up food. If you actually know what you're doing, I'll buy you whatever you want!!

-Mike