Pitman Arm options

[landshark]

I am looking at options to swap out a pitman arm on my 4x4x2 box to gain a little distance from the drag link and lower link at compression. - I don't know what or if I have options but would love to find a drag link that is slightly shorter, even 1/4 or less. I can take some measurements tonight if need be. Thanks!

[Jesus_man]

Pictures would be helpful. So you say there is a potential interference between the pitman arm and the Tie-rod at compression? Can you clock your pitman arm to help?

[landshark]

Pictures would be helpful. So you say there is a potential interference between the pitman arm and the Tie-rod at compression? Can you clock your pitman arm to help?

i moved the axle forward about 3/4 - 1" two years ago - and while i think iam close to being ok, the DOM tubing on the drag link slightly scrapes the tie rod DOM at certain angles. I don't see how I could clock the pitman arm as that would limit my turning - and the hole in the pitman arm is tapered. i will grab a pic here as soon as i can

Here is one image - not great but gives you an idea of what iam talking about. This is with the drivers side at almost full compression.

IMG_2845.JPG

[Jesus_man]

I was just thinking if you could clock it one tooth, that may be just enough to gain the clearance you need. But I do think that some of them you cannot clock because they have alignment splines. However, it is all in how the wheels are turned. A turn in any direction will help open up that gap.

How much of an interference is it? Just a scrape? I wouldn't worry about it. Even if it's a hard rub, I wouldn't be concerned. If it's trying to bend one or the other, then you could grind flat spots at those sections and repaint. I doubt you'd grind away enough to worry about strength issues.

Perhaps there is a slightly shorter pitman arm out there as well? Is that a drop arm? Maybe a flat one would be better?

Do you think at full compression that the tie-rod DOM will hit the joint at the pitman arm?

[landshark]

I was just thinking if you could clock it one tooth, that may be just enough to gain the clearance you need. But I do think that some of them you cannot clock because they have alignment splines. However, it is all in how the wheels are turned. A turn in any direction will help open up that gap.

How much of an interference is it? Just a scrape? I wouldn't worry about it. Even if it's a hard rub, I wouldn't be concerned. If it's trying to bend one or the other, then you could grind flat spots at those sections and repaint. I doubt you'd grind away enough to worry about strength issues.

Perhaps there is a slightly shorter pitman arm out there as well? Is that a drop arm? Maybe a flat one would be better?

Do you think at full compression that the tie-rod DOM will hit the joint at the pitman arm?

I thought about grinding, might end up doing that.

No other interference, checked full compresion and full droop lock to lock. I was hoping there was a slightly shorter pitman arm. Bonus if it is slight flatter - current arm is not a drop.

[Viperwolf1]

The manual steering arms are slightly shorter but also less beefy.

[landshark]

The manual steering arms are slightly shorter but also less beefy.

might have to compare, beef may not matter too much as its probably enough for what I do.

[Viperwolf1]

Astro arms are also short and completely flat.