www.ColoradoClassicBroncos.com

I went to my local Discout Tire yesterday for a long overdue rotate and balance. Those guys amaze me at how fast they can get the cars in and out.

Tire shops always have trouble getting the stick on weights placed so that they donΓÇÖt rub the dust shield or caliper.

Yesterday was worse than normal as the lead weights have been replaced with aluminum weights which of course means you need way more weights to get the same result.

Now I have weights protruding through the wheel openings and it looks awful.

The ride really smoothed out and is great but I just wonder if there is a tire shop that still uses lead weights that I could go to get them redone.

Maybe Bob will chime in to tell us if the lead weights have been eliminated due to environmental regulations or still available.

Lead weights are easily available. I use them exclusively. You're welcome to have any you might need. If you could tell me what weight sizes and styles you need I could box them and send them to you. Then you just pull 1 of the weights off your wheel at a time and swap them with the corresponding lead weight. Or you can bring it to me and I'll do it for you.

Ever try airsoft BB's? Been running them in my beadlocks for years and I can cruise at 70 without issues. Reminds me, I need to order more as I am getting new tires and getting my wheels repaired with lug hole inserts.

Oh yes I will chime. The ΓÇ£newΓÇ¥ weights we have been using are actually zinc. The industry is getting away from lead as a going green initiative. However with that being said. I do stash some lead away for special people. I am off of Hampden and Oneida about 3 blocks east of I 25. I now itΓÇÖs a little far but can always accommodate. Plus I usually try to do the work myself that way I now whatΓÇÖs going on. Plus I always have a few tricks up my sleeve for balancing.

B.O.B. wrote:Oh yes I will chime. The ΓÇ£newΓÇ¥ weights we have been using are actually zinc. The industry is getting away from lead as a going green initiative. However with that being said. I do stash some lead away for special people. I am off of Hampden and Oneida about 3 blocks east of I 25. I now itΓÇÖs a little far but can always accommodate. Plus I usually try to do the work myself that way I now whatΓÇÖs going on. Plus I always have a few tricks up my sleeve for balancing.

IΓÇÖm gonna give you a call tomorrow. When I bought my tires from you, they ran so smooth. IΓÇÖve since gotten a rotation and have gone to 2 different DT stores by me to get them balanced. IΓÇÖm getting a pretty bad vibration that gets worse at higher speeds. IΓÇÖm curious what your balancing trick is and if it could solve my issues. IΓÇÖm not positive itΓÇÖs the tires as when I press the clutch pedal in and coast, the vibration more or less goes away so IΓÇÖm a little stumped. Nothing has changed other than putting more miles on it.

B.O.B. wrote:Oh yes I will chime. The ΓÇ£newΓÇ¥ weights we have been using are actually zinc. The industry is getting away from lead as a going green initiative. However with that being said. I do stash some lead away for special people. I am off of Hampden and Oneida about 3 blocks east of I 25. I now itΓÇÖs a little far but can always accommodate. Plus I usually try to do the work myself that way I now whatΓÇÖs going on. Plus I always have a few tricks up my sleeve for balancing.

Bob, do you happen to be working this Friday ?

If so, I could swing by on my way home from the airport.

My schedule was his week is off Wednesday and leave early (between 1-3pm) on Thursday . Other than that I will be there the rest of the week. Eck you might have a bad u-joint on Your drive shaft.

B.O.B. wrote:My schedule was his week is off Wednesday and leave early (between 1-3pm) on Thursday . Other than that I will be there the rest of the week. Eck you might have a bad u-joint on Your drive shaft.

Not to hijack your thread Jeff but it looks like youΓÇÖve gotten your answer. I check the driveshafts. The u joint on the rear end of the front driveshaft has a tiny built of play so that might be it. Would disengaging the clutch and coasting cause the vibration to go away if it were a driveshaft u joint?


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Eck wrote:

B.O.B. wrote:My schedule was his week is off Wednesday and leave early (between 1-3pm) on Thursday . Other than that I will be there the rest of the week. Eck you might have a bad u-joint on Your drive shaft.

Not to hijack your thread Jeff but it looks like youΓÇÖve gotten your answer. I check the driveshafts. The u joint on the rear end of the front driveshaft has a tiny built of play so that might be it. Would disengaging the clutch and coasting cause the vibration to go away if it were a driveshaft u joint?


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It could since there is no load on it.

Bobby,

I will also likely get with you again and see if we can find the tire that's out of round and swap it with the spare. I still get a bad hop in the front from the tires.

ZOSO wrote:

Eck wrote:Not to hijack your thread Jeff but it looks like youΓÇÖve gotten your answer. I check the driveshafts. The u joint on the rear end of the front driveshaft has a tiny built of play so that might be it. Would disengaging the clutch and coasting cause the vibration to go away if it were a driveshaft u joint?


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It could since there is no load on it.

You say Front Driveshaft? Unless you are running around in 4WD, it would have to be the rear shaft.

I also just found a bad vibration came from my axle not being centered due to a broken center pin on my leaf pack. It still must be off by a little, but something else to check as well.

IΓÇÖd say it was a bad U Joint- the question is now what would cause this or is this what a bad u joint ΓÇ£canΓÇ¥ look like?




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Lack of maintenance...Or when it was installed, a needle bearing or two didn't get in the right position. I'm surprised you didn't hear it screaming!

lack of lubrication also extreme load caused by incorrect pinion angle.

Well I will say I definitely had not lubed it since install (probably at least a few thousand miles). As for pinion angle, I canΓÇÖt remember the number off the top of my head but I actually clocked the pinion a little better than stock when I installed the leaf spring perches so IΓÇÖm not sure why that would have caused it. It should be better than most people who run a ZF5/D20 combo....


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I've read that over tightening the u-joint straps is a common way to shorten the life of a u-joint. It was surprising how little torque those require. I can't remember the specs now, but it isn't much more than snugged up with an open end wrench. Not sure if this u-joint was at the axle or the t-case.

Gunnibronco wrote:I've read that over tightening the u-joint straps is a common way to shorten the life of a u-joint. It was surprising how little torque those require. I can't remember the specs now, but it isn't much more than snugged up with an open end wrench. Not sure if this u-joint was at the axle or the t-case.

Looks like 14-17 lbs for the 1310. IΓÇÖll definitely have to back off the new one as I tightened it down guttentight. Thanks for the suggestion.


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Hey Mike if pinion angle is to far off it causes extra load on the joint. probably just lack of lube from the point of install.

See my magic is working already :-)

Rob, bring it in when you get a chance. Definitely better easier with having the truck there.

Maybe Rob can pick something up for me?

Eck wrote:IΓÇÖd say it was a bad U Joint- the question is now what would cause this or is this what a bad u joint ΓÇ£canΓÇ¥ look like?




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Yikes! Weren't those relatively new Tom Wood's driveshafts?

I'd also call Tom then, if they are his. Not that he would be on the hook to warranty, but at least he'd have some expertise on the subject.

They were new TW driveshafts and his special gold seal U joints. If I did my math right when clocking the spring perches, my pinion angle is 6 degrees. IΓÇÖm gonna be taking my Bronco up to CrawlerCreations on Monday to discuss some other future projects so IΓÇÖll have him double check my angle and see if I need to get some shims to correct a potential problem.


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