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ZOSO wrote:Im interested in the 6.0 IC

I'm not going to part with it until I know I'm not going to use it but if I don't use it its yours.

So we gave the power stroke a work out this weekend pulling the new 5th wheel up the poudre canyon to do a little camping. I was surprised at how much trouble I was having trying to keep my EGT's down pulling the relatively lightweight trailer. I have a new down pipe in the garage that should help get the EGT's down once its installed but I think I have something else causing higher than normal temps. What else drives those temps up? After the Moab trip, I developed an exhaust leak at the passenger side exhaust manifold that has gotten pretty bad. The leak seems to be at the seal between the block and the back of the exhaust manifold and also at the seal between the manifold and the up pipe. Im pretty sure this is the real problem behind my EGT's So I guess its time to order the new up pipes. Also, is there a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the block?

It's very common for the exh bolts to break.

Viperwolf1 wrote:It's very common for the exh bolts to break.

That is exactly my problem. I have one broken bolt head near the biggest leak. Why do the exhaust leaks drive EGT's up?

I believe it has something to do with the exhaust feeding the turbo. If the exhaust system is leaky, the turbo lags causing the exhaust gases to linger rather than spinning the turbo and dumping out the exhaust pipe. So, it's not that exhaust gases cause EGTs to rise, more so that exhaust leaks cause exhaust gases to linger.

But that's just my theory so it's likely to be wrong.

Yep. High EGT's are a sign of not enough air to fuel. One way is help is keep the RPM up(more air). If you have an exhaust leak pre turbo you are loosing heat to spool the turbo. therefore lower boost levels so less air entering the engine yet the injectors are pumping the same fuel into it = high EGT's.


As for gaskets im not sure about your generation but mine doesnt have gaskets between the manifolds and heads. But if the do leak they do make gaskets to add onto it.

Last night, I went on to riff raff diesel to order the new up pipes only to find that they were out of stock. I gave them a call today and they told me that they should have more ready at the end of the month. As soon as they have them in I'll be ordering the pipes and their billet turbo wheel. In the mean time, I need to get the broken bolt out of the exhaust manifold. Only the bolt head is broken off so I should be able to get a grip on it once the manifold is pulled off. any other broken bolt removal advice? I have been spraying it with PB blaster so maybe that will help.

If you find the pliers technique just isn't cutting it, slide a nut over the remaining bolt shaft, weld it to the shaft, and use the appropriate size socket to remove said bolt.

akaFrankCastle wrote:If you find the pliers technique just isn't cutting it, slide a nut over the remaining bolt shaft, weld it to the shaft, and use the appropriate size socket to remove said bolt.

That was my thought as well. I'm thinking that if I can remove the plastic inner fender, the process will be much easier.

That one will likely fight ya! I hope not, but you know how bolts on the exhaust can be!

Don't worry those broke bolts come right out with a pair of vise grips. I have done numerous 7.3 exhaust manifold gaskets/bolts and never had one fight once the manifold was off. They do make a gasket that fits our trucks. Surprising its not even that expensive from ford (all steel design) or felpro makes one too (kinda a fiber steel design). Also the reason for the bolts breaking is they loosen up over time and then the manifold s against the bolt head and breaks it. I strongly reccomend replacing all the bolts when you do the job. The updated ford bolts (which can be bought from riff raff) actually have an interference thread design so they stay tight.

David

BroncoCrawler wrote:Don't worry those broke bolts come right out with a pair of vise grips. I have done numerous 7.3 exhaust manifold gaskets/bolts and never had one fight once the manifold was off. They do make a gasket that fits our trucks. Surprising its not even that expensive from ford (all steel design) or felpro makes one too (kinda a fiber steel design). Also the reason for the bolts breaking is they loosen up over time and then the manifold s against the bolt head and breaks it. I strongly reccomend replacing all the bolts when you do the job. The updated ford bolts (which can be bought from riff raff) actually have an interference thread design so they stay tight.

David

Thanks for the advice, I ordered new bolts from Riff Raff and should get them this week. I also tried to order up pipes but they are out of stock for a few more weeks. In the mean time I'll work on the exhaust manifold and down pipe. Closer inspection under the truck shows that I'm developing the same leak on the driver side manifold so I'll be doing that one as well.

Well, the bolts came in and I picked up the exhaust manifold gaskets. Once the bolts were out the broken bolt came out easily. The up pipes are so worn that once the exhaust manifold was out the pipe actually fell out. I got the major exhaust leak resolved on the passenger side but decided to hold off on the smaller riverside leak. As soon as Riff Raff gets the bellowed up pipes in again, I will get them ordered along with the billet turbo wheel. Once I have it all, I will install the gasket on the driver side along with the down pipe I already purchased.

I've been plugging away at a lot of stupid little maintenance issues. Lots of dumb, easy to fix problems. I still feel the truck will be reliable, haven't found anything terrible yet. I've sunk a couple hundred dollars and a bunch of googling/time, but not that much. Still looking for a set of 18" rims. Haven't found anything less than $400.

Still need to add the PCM ECT sensor, check ball joints & get an alignment, EGT gauge, turn signals don't reset, track down air bag sensors that seem to be missing all together, adjust the park brake, new vac pump, plus some other minor, nuisance issues I've found.

A list of what I've already fixed:
Filthy- took a couple cleanings to get the black grime off, still needs seats & carpet cleaned
Lots of wrong fuses
Bulbs burned out: 1 reverse light, 3rd brake light, both "bed" lights, dome light (wasn't even burned out just a bad connection needing cleaned)
Missing license plate lights completely. I found a set & harness (Chevy I think) at the body shop and adjusted them with a utility knife to fit the Ford bumper
4 failed glow plugs - replaced the relay with a 200a relay, & updated valve cover gaskets- just in case
Trailer brake controller- "It blows fuses every time I plug in a trailer"= rats nest of wires, exposed & loose/disconnected connections- fixed properly & everything works great
Rear bumper badly aligned- fixed with a jack
Battery tie down missing - replaced with Dorman "help" part
Cleaned & rebuilt fuel bowl
Fuel bowl heater looked bad & intake air heater relay wiring was bad- neither of these things seem to be necessary or even help with cold start up
Missing jack & most of the spare tire tools- scavanged & adjusted an early 90's Chevy set up from the body shop.

Probably a few other things I've forgotten. Ridiculous, simple stuff. You'd think you'd at least clean the damn thing before trying to sell it.

If you're tinkering - clean your EBPS sensor and tube which is supposed to improve your MPG's:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4uCI8MH62U

I've read about that. Good one to add to the "list".

Jesus_man wrote:If you're tinkering - clean your EBPS sensor and tube which is supposed to improve your MPG's:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4uCI8MH62U

I broke my tube trying to clean it out, it was packed solid. Ended up replacing the tube and the sensor.

There's a dirty joke in there somewhere.

LOL.

I twisted off the tip of my dip stick tube when I was pulling my glow plugs!

Riff Raff Diesel will be at Bandimere this evening for the test and tune. Clay is offering a limited number of free t-shirts. Contact them on Facebook to set something up. Wish I could make it up.

Got a fiberglass topper for my truck tonight. Rear ramps up a few inches taller than the cab, tinted windows, Front sliding window, side sliders w/good screens even. Rear window shocks are weak. White with peeling clear coat, but I know a guy who can fix that. Overall very nice condition. A friend called me when he stumbled on it. Sweet $100 find. I can probably get most that back selling the tool box.

akaFrankCastle wrote:Riff Raff Diesel will be at Bandimere this evening for the test and tune. Clay is offering a limited number of free t-shirts. Contact them on Facebook to set something up. Wish I could make it up.

Great, I go to Oregon where they are located and they go to Colorado. Been watching their web page for the up pipes to become available again but it has not happened yet.

Gunnibronco wrote:Got a fiberglass topper for my truck tonight. Rear ramps up a few inches taller than the cab, tinted windows, Front sliding window, side sliders w/good screens even. Rear window shocks are weak. White with peeling clear coat, but I know a guy who can fix that. Overall very nice condition. A friend called me when he stumbled on it. Sweet $100 find. I can probably get most that back selling the tool box.

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Nice score! I have a body shop I deliver to who is painting mine and repairing a couple cracks as we speak. I was going to do it myself but he is doing it for me for less $ than I could buy the materials to do it myself.

Good score Chad! Check Mcmaster.com for new shocks. I put some on my ARE topper and maybe went a little heavy. You better watch you chin when you open mine!

Jesus_man wrote:Good score Chad! Check Mcmaster.com for new shocks. I put some on my ARE topper and maybe went a little heavy. You better watch you chin when you open mine!

Thanks those are better prices than the parts stores. I need a set for the hood of the Super Duty too. Rigged up a piece of PVC to hold the shocks open, so I don't get squashed while working on it.

Gunnibronco wrote:

Jesus_man wrote:Good score Chad! Check Mcmaster.com for new shocks. I put some on my ARE topper and maybe went a little heavy. You better watch you chin when you open mine!

Thanks those are better prices than the parts stores. I need a set for the hood of the Super Duty too. Rigged up a piece of PVC to hold the shocks open, so I don't get squashed while working on it.

I found the shocks for mine at oreilleys . it was about $30-35 for the pair.

Today was the day for my Diamond Eye down pipe install. What a pain in the ass that was. It took a little firewall massaging to get it to go. I'm going to reuse the original heat shield on the new down pipe but I'm going to run it through a few heat cycles before I put it on. I have heard several stories about downpipes rattling against the firewall so I want to be sure it does not need any adjustment before I put on the final clamp and heat shield. Now I just need Riff Raff to get my up pipes in so I can tackle that one. As soon as they come in I'm going to tackle that along with all of the O-rings and fuel pump in the engine valley. While I'm there, a billet compressor wheel is going in along with new glow plugs. Once all of that is done, its intercooler time! The parts for that are on the shelf in the garage so at least there is light at the end of the tunnel. Once all of that is done I can start the "Heavy Duty Transmission Fund".

It'll be a whole different truck when you're done! My piece of advice for the compressor wheel; its not reverse threaded like I had learned.

I talked to Clay at Riff Raff Today and the up pipes for the OBS are still not ready. I'm really wanting to get this done before fall and he is saying it could be another Month! I'm getting a bit anxious and thinking about other options Bar none diesel , irate diesel and a few others do bellowed pipes as well. I could also do a stock replacement, the first ones lasted a couple hundred thousand miles.

Give Scott at addicted a call. He may know of a good source for the pipes. He's done a few.